BDF, I saw something interesting regarding brake bleeding and the c14 abs bikes.
One of the posts mentioned that it might be a good idea to turn the key to the on position, while bleeding. Doing so may activate the abs solenoids and allow a better, or more complete flush of the fluid.
That sounds too good to be true. What do you think? It would be easy enough to do this, if it helped.
I thought BMWs abs system required extra labor to do a complete flush, but if I remember correctly, our systems dont require any extra steps to flush EVERYTHING and not leave old fluid behind.
One of the posts mentioned that it might be a good idea to turn the key to the on position, while bleeding. Doing so may activate the abs solenoids and allow a better, or more complete flush of the fluid.(Even though this query was addressed to Brian, I hope it was opened to all when Brian said he didn't have an ABS bike?)
That sounds too good to be true. What do you think?
(Even though this query was addressed to Brian, I hope it was opened to all when Brian said he didn't have an ABS bike?)
While it is an interesting thought, one would think that Mama Kaw would have mentioned it in the service manual. It's not in either section of mine. Additionally the owners manual also mentions that the abs system doesn't function below approx. 3.1 mph so unless you bleed brakes above that speed...?
Still it's an interesting thought, and one of you should try it and report back....until then I'm going to put it in the same storage section as that rumor about calibrating the throttle position sensor by....oh nevermind.
(Even though this query was addressed to Brian, I hope it was opened to all when Brian said he didn't have an ABS bike?)
While it is an interesting thought, one would think that Mama Kaw would have mentioned it in the service manual. It's not in either section of mine. Additionally the owners manual also mentions that the abs system doesn't function below approx. 3.1 mph so unless you bleed brakes above that speed...?
Still it's an interesting thought, and one of you should try it and report back....until then I'm going to put it in the same storage section as that rumor about calibrating the throttle position sensor by....oh nevermind.
and frankly a plastic bottle, half filled, will not be viable once opened, resealed, and set on a shelf for a year, or even more. Plastic bottles breath pretty freely...
<snip>
now I'll mention something that isn't really apparent anymore, as today's people aren't old enough to remember that prior to the 80's, pretty much all brake fluid you bought, came in a METAL can... now, I will say that storing a half container, whether it was metal, or plastic, and expecting it to be fine a year later, is not wise... but sealed cans of brake fluid manufactured during the 60's and 70's, that I have opened, metal cans... showed no degradation of product.. plastic bottles are a product of our "newer" need for disposal, and frankly a plastic bottle, half filled, will not be viable once opened, resealed, and set on a shelf for a year, or even more. Plastic bottles breath pretty freely...
soooo, I save my "half bottles" for the initial purge when doing a complete flush, I actually will pour them all together as I use a "half bottle" to fill a bottle fully before setting it on a shelf. Then, when I need to do a full flush, use all the older fluid, which may be slightly degraded, which is ok to me, and pump it thru prior to finalizing the service with completely fresh and new fluid...
As an answer to the unopened sealed bottle thing, kinda depends on how thick, and what polymer plastic was used in the container, and seal... most are made from HDPE High Density Polyethylene, and can cope with quite a bit of resistance to air intrusion, basically because it was completely filled, with very little airspace, and usually stored at a constant temperature... but once opened, and half is used, the remaining "void" in that bottle contains air, and very likely moisture.
a lot of my "opinions" on air and moisture come from my engineering experience when I was responsible for designing "packaging" material for use in "flat pack" Lithium Ion battery production. The chemicals, and composites used to create prismatic cells, are extremely hygroscopic, and as of such, the cathode/anode lamination's once the plasticisers are extracted, are dried, and all "cell assembly" was done in an inert atmosphere (i.e. a helium filled gloved dry box) which was monitored, and ingress and egress chambers were evacuated during loading process. Moisture was virtually non existent, and oxygen also.
The materials I developed for the "soft" package of the cells as designed consisted of multiple layers of non permeable aluminum foil, and proprietary plastic films, which were conducive to laminating with the foil layers, and resultant "heat sealing", I was a great challenge, and I expended a lot of time to perfect the process' (yeah, I have patents on some stuff... but I'm not rich from it... dangit..)
I know it's a bit anal with regards to brake fluid, but I did become very aware of gas and moisture permeability of simple common plastics.
so, In the end, Like I noted, I flush with the slightly aged fluids, and toss them, and my final fill is always fresh stuff... it's cheap, why not.
MOB, I saw something interesting at a bottled water plant we work with.
I was watching the fill production line, Id guess it was called. They have the thin, clear bottles and the fresh, pure, filtered water is placed into them.
This leaves an air space that about 1 inch front the bottom of its lid.
Just before the lid gets screwed on, they place a drop of liquid nitrogen inside the bottle. The nitrogen is flashing off, the lid is screwed on. Doing so helps flush out all the air, and it pressurizes the bottle, just a little, and makes the bottle stronger. This allows them to stack the finished product.
I wondered if maybe they do a similar thing with other fluids we buy? Anyway, I wished you were there so you could fully explain what was going on.
I'm very aware of that process, and have studied it back in the mid 90's when I came into widespread use, It works great on non carbonated beverages, and food products; I saw it in use in the medical packaging industry a lot, where sterility had to be maintained during the vacuum sealing of packages containing drugs, and other medical implements, such as high end dressings, plastics, chemical compositions and such, that could not be subjected to high temp autoclave sterilization. Many other forms were used in packaging such as "gas tunnel" lines, which were gas flooded long conveyor tunnels, which contained inert gas, but as cost due to quantity of gas expended made it a bit prohibitive for common usage, things like freeze dried foods, and MRE's were the common usage for gas only purging... The added benefit of the process you saw, is the fact that pressurization strengthens the plastic bottles as you noted, and increasingly thinner bottles can be utilized, created less waste impact on the environment, and reduced cost for the bottlers.
As far as use on other products, like brake fluid, I think they do an Argon "puff/purge", as it's more conducive and not an issue like food products purity.
Now, this really is the epitome of storing your stash.....
http://www.vacuumbarrier.com/articles/application-study-cannabis.html
yes, It's come to that level...