^^^What Bud said, and I'll add. This bike's rear break has an unusually long travel before you get bite. My brother's M109R grabbed earlier and with less pressure. I think it's designed that way for safety in the non ABS bikes; but now that they've discontinued that, they should work on a more progressive and direct activation of the rear's especially now that the system is linked.

It is 100% for sure ABS.

I posted just out of concern that there was a caliper alignment issue, hung piston, etc.... I'm sorry to start any controversy.

It's an internet forum..there's always controversy going on  .

My advice, it's new, take it to the dealer to sort out.  Do not remove any parts or pieces.  Engineered rightly or wrongly, that spring referenced above is supposed to be there.  There could be something wrong with the ABS or something else.  It's a safety issue and the dealer should take care of it.

It is 100% for sure ABS.

I posted just out of concern that there was a caliper alignment issue, hung piston, etc.... I'm sorry to start any controversy.

That's par for the course here. We run with any thread posted.

That's par for the course here. We run with any thread posted.

That's right! It's either that or do some work around this place.   

That's right! It's either that or do some work around this place.   

Kpass locked the rear wheel, I know it!!!

This sounds stupid, but it works.
An old road racer gave me this tip many years ago... Reagan Shaw of Tampa, FL. RIP my brother.


Take a zip-tie and tighten it around the front brake lever. Leave it over night.

Take a weight and hang it from the rear brake pedal over night.
I use an ammo can with 1000 rounds.

All of your sponginess and soft brakes will be gone in the morning.

This will stiffen up the brake pull.


Try it, just once. You will be hooked.

It's an internet forum..there's always controversy going on  .

My advice, it's new, take it to the dealer to sort out.  Do not remove any parts or pieces.  Engineered rightly or wrongly, that spring referenced above is supposed to be there.  There could be something wrong with the ABS or something else.  It's a safety issue and the dealer should take care of it.

Sorry to say Jim, but rightly or wrongly is determined by what works and what does not work.  The spring is supposed to be there because some dummy in the engineering department thought it would be a good idea.  Had he ridden the bike both with and without the spring he would have realized that it is detrimental and downright dangerous.  I'm speaking specifically of the '09 model with ABS as this is the only one I have owned and ridden.  I cannot refer to the later models with linked brakes as I have not ridden one or even looked at one to see if the offending spring is there.  Anyone owning and '08 or '09 who questions my advice can ignore it and post no comments as to its veracity or they can spend the ten minutes or so that it takes to remove the spring, ride it and make an empirical determination.  After putting my advice to the test, whether you agree or disagree, you are then fully qualified to post a comment.  As for your blind trust in the wisdom of engineers who design our various modes of transportation.  I have done all of the maintenance, modifications, fabrication of improvements, etc. on all of my vehicles, two wheels or four and the vehicles of others for the past 55 years.  In that time I have been amazed many times over that some of the engineering feats displayed in the end product are excellent while coexisting on the same vehicle with something that was designed by an idiot, yet there it is right next to the work of a genius.   

This sounds stupid, but it works.
An old road racer gave me this tip many years ago... Reagan Shaw of Tampa, FL. RIP my brother.


Take a zip-tie and tighten it around the front brake lever. Leave it over night.

Take a weight and hang it from the rear brake pedal over night.
I use an ammo can with 1000 rounds.

All of your sponginess and soft brakes will be gone in the morning.

This will stiffen up the brake pull.

Try it, just once. You will be hooked.

Not stupid at all.  The increased pressure forces the residual air bubbles in the line up through the master cylinder and finishes the bleeding process.  Thanks for sharing.

Sorry to say Jim, but rightly or wrongly is determined by what works and what does not work.  The spring is supposed to be there because some dummy in the engineering department thought it would be a good idea.  Had he ridden the bike both with and without the spring he would have realized that it is detrimental and downright dangerous.  I'm speaking specifically of the '09 model with ABS as this is the only one I have owned and ridden.  I cannot refer to the later models with linked brakes as I have not ridden one or even looked at one to see if the offending spring is there.  Anyone owning and '08 or '09 who questions my advice can ignore it and post no comments as to its veracity or they can spend the ten minutes or so that it takes to remove the spring, ride it and make an empirical determination.  After putting my advice to the test, whether you agree or disagree, you are then fully qualified to post a comment.  As for your blind trust in the wisdom of engineers who design our various modes of transportation.  I have done all of the maintenance, modifications, fabrication of improvements, etc. on all of my vehicles, two wheels or four and the vehicles of others for the past 55 years.  In that time I have been amazed many times over that some of the engineering feats displayed in the end product are excellent while coexisting on the same vehicle with something that was designed by an idiot, yet there it is right next to the work of a genius.

While I agree with some of your statements, the OP has a 'new' bike.  I put that in quotes because it's an 09 that's been sitting on the dealership floor for quite some time.  We all know what happens to bikes that sit for a long time.  This could be a safety issue or it's working as designed.  We don't know because we aren't the ones riding it.  What we perceive as 'normal' may not be perceived as normal to the OP.  Again, we don't know cause we're sitting behind a PC making armchair suggestions.  He has a warranty.  He should use it to check this out.  If he should want to try the spring removal to 'improve' his brakes then more power to him and good luck all around.  He can always put it back.

I'm extremely lucky with my bike as I've ridden with that spring connected since early August of 07 without serious injury, perceived decreased braking performance, or causing me to nearly tip over in low speed maneuvers.  I'm keeping mine on.

We thank you sincerely for bringing that to our attention again and do hope you bring more insight and new ideas to our forum.  We really appreciate new forum members adding to our knowledge base.

Well said Jim, you're a gentleman.

My 09 (ABS) is new, and I spent the whole day yesterday riding to break it in. The rear brake is soft on the bike. I mean, if I jab it hard enough, it will lock the rear tire, but it seems to take a serious amount of input to get it to respond.

I wasn't too worried about it till when I got home last night and I saw a serious amount of brake pad debris on the rear wheel. I wouldn't call it dust, it is heavier than that, like you sprinkled the rear wheel with black pepper.

Should I be concerned? I plan on taking the rear caliper off as I am suspect that one pistons are hung up.

My bike is one of those that sat and sat for 3 years, so I wouldn't be surprised if it is because it sat so long, but I wondered if anyone else might of had the same thing happen?

You need to bleed your rear brakes! Make sure to bleed it from both bleed valves! Problem solved!                                             

Well 600 miles on it now, and last night I did the first oil change, rode it around the block to verify the oil level. Did so without my helmet on, and could definitely hear the rear pads dragging on the rotor with no pedal pressure. I am going to assume that one of the pistons are hung, thus letting one of the pads rest on the rotor.

Just because you hear noise doesn't make it sticking.  Check the rear rotor to see how hot it is after taking a short trip and using only the front brakes.  Assuming it is sticking you need to get it to the dealer as soon as possible.  Another cause could be the rear master cylinder.  We've seen issues with that not allowing the pistons to retract.  You've got several potential scenarios here.  Problem with the caliper, problem with the master cylinder, and potentially gravel preventing the full return of the brake pedal.  All of these could cause the rear brake to be locking up.  We've seen where gravel can still get in and prevent the full return of the rear brake pedal even with the recall shield attached.