15K Valves: How bad were they?

[C1xRider]

I'm coming up on 15K, and was curious how much valve adjustment people were actually needing when they got there.

There are really 2 polls in one here.  Everyone should select the first or second choice, then one of 3, 4, or 5.

If you took it to the dealer and didn't care or ask, then option 6 is for you.

If you haven't done your first valve adjust yet, option 7 is yours, and be patient and your time will come!   

[MrPepsi]

All within spec.
Now I'm at 25k, so we'll see what happens at 30.

[C1xRider]

All within spec.
Now I'm at 25k, so we'll see what happens at 30.

No tweaking either, even though they were in spec?  Some people are anal about making sure they are all exactly the same.   

[MrPepsi]

The shop did it and told me they was no adjustment done or needed.

[Son of Pappy]

I actually trust my mech, I saw the innards and his chart, as well as the shims.  Second only needed a few swapped around.  I'm delaying the third, feeling OK with my decision to go 30K between checks.

[olie]

All within spec but the mechanic did adjust 7 to center. Some mechanics are honest...

[Rawman]

I had mine done at 18K, all were within spec although 3 were right on the edge.  The Mechanic said they were probably fully seated and would not move much from there.

[tthompsr]

Had mine done at 15,000 all in spec.

[Shadowofshoe]

  So how much for the 15k check up including valves I'll be there soon got mine at 11k a couple months ago...........I know save the flames, weather sucked forever!!!

              Mike

[IRULE]

Too new, haven't done it.  A neighbor with a 2008 C14 did it about 2 months ago, everything was perfect but the shop still charged full price because they had to open everything up and check.

I think when I get to 15k, unless I hear or feel something is not right, I will skip it until 30k.

[DenverC-14]

Did mine at 17.5. All were within "spec", but most were close to ends of tolerances. My mech moved them all to the center of the range.

[lather]

I did mines at 20,000 miles. Only one Ex and two In were in spec and the two intakes were at .127. I changed 15 shims.  I am in the process of doing my second check at 55,000 miles.

[C1xRider]

I did mines at 20,000 miles. Only one Ex and two In were in spec and the two intakes were at .127. I changed 15 shims.  I am in the process of doing my second check at 55,000 miles.

Interesting, let us know how they look on your 55K inspection.  From the reports so far, they should not change much after the first one, but that remains to be seen en mass.

I'm not planning on taking my bike down to check them until we get stretch of some really ugly weather.  Our riding season is just too short to do that.  I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.

I never did hear why the manufacturers changed from the adjustable screw & jam nut design to the shim design.  Sure makes the valve adjust a lot less convenient.

[lather]

Interesting, let us know how they look on your 55K inspection.  From the reports so far, they should not change much after the first one, but that remains to be seen en mass.

I'm not planning on taking my bike down to check them until we get stretch of some really ugly weather.  Our riding season is just too short to do that.  I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.

I never did hear why the manufacturers changed from the adjustable screw & jam nut design to the shim design.  Sure makes the valve adjust a lot less convenient.

I am hoping not to have to change any shims this time but if I have to, THIS IS our "really ugly weather" down here and I have  2 cooler bikes to ride. As for the shim under bucket I seem to recall that in general it was a design change more suitable for higher output, higher RPM engines.
It is maybe cheaper to build also.

[booger]

My shop mechanic says he usually only has to go through the motions on the 15K.   Very rarily has to adjust one.

[Shoe]

........ I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.
..............

There is too much work involved to do all that buttoning and unbuttoning for me. Unless there is a problem its one unbutton/button per adjust for me.   

[lather]

I just finished measuring my clearances. All Intakes valves are in spec, all but 2 at .006.
All Exhaust valves are out of spec tight. All but one EX are at .006 and that at .007.

This is at 55,000 miles and again the first adjustment was done at 20,000.

[B.D.F.]

Just my opinion but that is a lot of work to do twice to adjust the valve lash on a C-14. Doing it once is more than enough for most of us, never mind twice (for the same maintenance instance).

Adjusting screws and locknuts require rocker arms, which have more mass than in- line valve systems like the shimmed type. Shim over bucket requires the shim also function as the cam contact point and so the shim has to be quite large in diameter, as does the bucket that holds it. They are very easy to change but are bigger and heavier than they need to be. Shim under bucket is a very small, light system that allows very high engine RPM due to light valve train components. It is also a more precise system than most (or all) others and will hold a lash setting for a long time. The downside to the shim under bucket system is that it is more difficult to adjust; still, we spend a lot more time riding than maintaining the bike so it is a good idea overall I think.

Brian

Interesting, let us know how they look on your 55K inspection.  From the reports so far, they should not change much after the first one, but that remains to be seen en mass.

I'm not planning on taking my bike down to check them until we get stretch of some really ugly weather.  Our riding season is just too short to do that.  I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.

I never did hear why the manufacturers changed from the adjustable screw & jam nut design to the shim design.  Sure makes the valve adjust a lot less convenient.

[lather]

Crap! I have 7 of the 8 shims I need in my stockpile!
Anyone willing to swap me their #20 (2.20 mm) for just about anything else. Or even 2 for 1

UPDATE: I got a call from Shoe, he is sending a couple of shims. Thanks Shoe!

[C1xRider]

Just my opinion but that is a lot of work to do twice to adjust the valve lash on a C-14. Doing it once is more than enough for most of us, never mind twice (for the same maintenance instance).

Adjusting screws and locknuts require rocker arms, which have more mass than in- line valve systems like the shimmed type. Shim over bucket requires the shim also function as the cam contact point and so the shim has to be quite large in diameter, as does the bucket that holds it. They are very easy to change but are bigger and heavier than they need to be. Shim under bucket is a very small, light system that allows very high engine RPM due to light valve train components. It is also a more precise system than most (or all) others and will hold a lash setting for a long time. The downside to the shim under bucket system is that it is more difficult to adjust; still, we spend a lot more time riding than maintaining the bike so it is a good idea overall I think.

Brian

Thanks for the info Brian, and here I thought it was just to drive more people to the dealers to support their shops.