Good job ZG for reaching15k13k!
Keep up the good work, maybe by 2030 you'll reach 30k!
So when getting a valve adjustment done, I should also consider getting the TPs adjusted, synchronize the throttle bodies and now having "other electrical sinsor components" checked.
What other "electrical sensor components", are you referring to?
Riverszzr,
Bike is at 92000km now.(around 57000 miles). I plan on opening it up again at 100000 kilometers. Might need a few shims then.
Always did my own valves. Z1-900, couple of kz1000's. Then my 2 zx11's. Now my zg. Still have the tool that holds the shim bucket down for the old 900. Yes ,sometimes they needed shims. Never 10. That old Z1 only had 8 valves total and those were shim on top of bucket and about 4 times the diameter of any modern day bike not to mention they didn't rev like today
Some could be a little tight or loose but I do not change them if they are in the range that Kawasaki specifies.Your peroggative but leaving them at an edge of spec is foolish at best
I would probably change more than 10 shims if I was trying to get them all in the middle of the range allowed. yeah well there is the rub, if you think "good enough" is actually good enough for you then roll the dice and let them sit at the edge of spec and hope, because that is all you can do at that, hope they don't move any further in that direction
I'm guessing that is why you're changing so many. I'm not that fussy. I am a perfectionist and since people pay me to do the work, I damn sure am going to do it to the best of my abilities and with over 13000 shims at my fingertips I can afford to be this damn picky
Too bad you're so far or I would take you up on your offer!
My Ducati s4 ("Mike-s4") was a different story. Every 15000 kilometers it had to be checked.
2 cylinders,8 valves, 16 shims to check. openers and closers and those closers run .000" clearance, if/when they get tight at all and bye bye cam, rocker etc...Thus the need to adjust often and the reason it is a $1000+ service
Shim tip- If a shim is too tight and the next size available makes it too loose, You can machine a few thou off one side of the thick shim.That may have been true with the old ginormous shims, as long as they were oem shims and hardened through and through-but todays shims selections on any 9.5mm or 7.5mm size come in .001" increments-(closer yet if you have some of the "1/2" size shims that came installed in many bikes from the factory) so no need to try and sand down the face of any of them. And the aftermarket ones are only surface hardened and of varying quality, so I would highly discourage trying to take anything off them, hell I throw them in the garbage they are junk and refuse to use any of those aftermarket shims.
Just make sure the side you ground down is facing the bucket. It has lost it's surface hardness and should not be on the cam (friction) side. This won't matter-go through the hard face and they are screwed either way, shim under bucket shims have a dimple on the inside of the bucket and then the small tip of the valve.........But perhaps if you are talking about the ginormous shims that were shim on top of bucket of the olden days, then your logic is sound but I still wouldn't do it in practice.
Cheers.
Mike
<snip>
I figure on keeping this bike for a long time and if doing the recommended service will make this possible then so be it.
I'm sure the engineers that set the service intervals are much smarter then I when it comes to an engine they designed and developed.
We are spending much money on farkles so why not keep the bike running as it's supposed to run.
<snip>
Brent
My two cents.
Does the bike start quickly hot or cold?
Does the bike idle OK?
Does it have as much power as when new?
If you answer yes to all of these, IMHO save a few bucks and wait until 30,000mi. or so...
I have not opened mine up yet and over 50,000mi. on my '09, it runs as good as new. (if not stronger)
I'll probably get some flak for this but I'm sticking with the majority, 15,000mi. is a little early.
The guy at my shop said the same thing. As long as those things were fine, he said he'd wait until I brought it in at 26K. He said he almost never sees it needed at 15K. When I took it in at 26K I think 4 needed adjusted but were just right on the edge of even needing it.
Reassure yourself that the manual is just stupid by reading the shifting speed criteria. Wow. Goofy!
Maxtog-the biggest flaw in your entire "logic"
You say it yourself, you base it all off of what you have read on forums. Forums where by and large are people just spewing **** out their ass because they want it to be so. Some of that information is false information some lazy ass mechanic told them becasue he was too lazy to actually do the work, but by and large 95%+ of the information when it comes to valve adjustment needs and where they actually are is total bullshit becasue people are cheap and want things to be easy etc.
Connie14boy;
where would I even begin...
I could let the rest of your "advice" slide but your spark plug recommendation and valve lash recommendation are just ridiculously inappropriate advice to be spewing and couldn't be further from the real world than pluto is from the sun.
Hey what is your mechanical background?
How many motorcycles have you actually adjusted valves on?
Have you ever run a bike on the dyno before and after a valve adjustment, throttle body sync, TPS adjustment etc....
Have you ever even actually seen a valve adjustment performed and watched the process and seen the measurements?
Apparently you and others like you think you know more than people who actually do it for a living (not hacks who just waste space in the service department of some shops) and care about the quality of work they put out. You also apparently are smarter than the people at Kawasaki who built the bike and planned out the specs and thus the service intervals..
Must be hell to be smarter than everyone else without any actually knowledge on the subject.
Please enlighten me on how much you know and can back up....
For anyone in the future reading this thread, it is so full of fail and misinformation and just completely stupid advice by some it is ridiculous.
Maxtog-the biggest flaw in your entire "logic"
You say it yourself, you base it all off of what you have read on forums. Forums where by and large are people just spewing **** out their ass because they want it to be so. Some of that information is false information some lazy ass mechanic told them becasue he was too lazy to actually do the work, but by and large 95%+ of the information when it comes to valve adjustment needs and where they actually are is total bullshit becasue people are cheap and want things to be easy etc.
Connie14boy;
where would I even begin...
I could let the rest of your "advice" slide but your spark plug recommendation and valve lash recommendation are just ridiculously inappropriate advice to be spewing and couldn't be further from the real world than pluto is from the sun.
Hey what is your mechanical background?
How many motorcycles have you actually adjusted valves on?
Have you ever run a bike on the dyno before and after a valve adjustment, throttle body sync, TPS adjustment etc....
Have you ever even actually seen a valve adjustment performed and watched the process and seen the measurements?
Apparently you and others like you think you know more than people who actually do it for a living (not hacks who just waste space in the service department of some shops) and care about the quality of work they put out. You also apparently are smarter than the people at Kawasaki who built the bike and planned out the specs and thus the service intervals..
Must be hell to be smarter than everyone else without any actually knowledge on the subject.
Please enlighten me on how much you know and can back up....
For anyone in the future reading this thread, it is so full of fail and misinformation and just completely stupid advice by some it is ridiculous.
I am not as anal retentive as some people are about this..
I am not as anal retentive on this subject as some