Kawasaki Concours Forum
Concours 1400 (C14) FAQ => C-14, aka Concours-14 GTR 1400 => Electrical => Topic started by: spotcw on May 16, 2011, 04:00:37 PM
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My 2008 came with only 1 key FOB and I want to add another before I loose the one I have and have to spend lots of money to replace the ECU. I have heard that a Key FOB from a 2010 or newer, the credit card type, will work for the 2008 and is much less expensive than buying a replacement 08' one. Can anybody confirm this for me? Thanks!
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I can't confirm it, but I did read that the 2008/2009 ECU can be programmed to work with the credit card one. Keep in mind that the much cheaper credit card version on the 2010/2011 is a *passive* fob, not active. So it has no proximity function. To use it, you have to hold it to the ignition, touching it and holding it there for a while. It is NOT something you want want to try and use "typically" or "normally".
The stock *active* fob will also act as a passive fob if the battery in it dies.... so I don't think the older C14 will know/care.
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I had a thread on the the pre crash site. A few members stated the credit card fob would replace the larger fob on the 2008+ models.
Cost is about $150 less :)
Brent
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The credit card fob works fine with any year C14. It doesn't come with a key, so you will need to get one for a spare. Be aware that there is an A key and a B key. Make sure you order the right one. Then you will still need to have the key cut. I am not aware of an aftermarket key that fits either fob, but maybe they are out there.
It isn't that big of a deal to use the cc fob, but it does take more effort that a regular key, much less KiPass.
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The CC version runs from $30 to $40 depending on where you shop, plus whatever the dealer charges for programming -- which should be a 15 minute job, tops.
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The credit card fob works fine with any year C14. It doesn't come with a key, so you will need to get one for a spare. Be aware that there is an A key and a B key. Make sure you order the right one. Then you will still need to have the key cut. I am not aware of an aftermarket key that fits either fob, but maybe they are out there.
You *can* order a blank [regular] key that should fit in the Fob. I saw the part on a diagram at the dealer when discussing keys with them...
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Yes, the 2010 and later 'credit card' fob is only about $35 as compared with approx. $200 for a full blown RF fob that came with the '08 and '09 models. It will cost you a few dollars to have a dealer code the bike to recongnize it but it will still cost far less than the more complete (RF) fobs. The later credit card fobs work with all years of C-14s once the bike is programmed to recognise them.
Brian
My 2008 came with only 1 key FOB and I want to add another before I loose the one I have and have to spend lots of money to replace the ECU. I have heard that a Key FOB from a 2010 or newer, the credit card type, will work for the 2008 and is much less expensive than buying a replacement 08' one. Can anybody confirm this for me? Thanks!
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I just had the $35 credit card programed to my 08 last week, works fine and was charged 1/2 hour labor, which is about how long it took them. I too hated riding with only one FOB.
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I just had my 08 programmed to the $35 credit card last week, works fine and was charged 1/2 hour labor, which is about how long it took them. I too hated riding with only one FOB.
Fixed it fer ya.
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Fixed it fer ya.
Yeah, I was going to point that out too. The keys/fobs just have a numeric code- there is nothing to program in them.
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I know this is an old topic but my dealer says he had never heard of this. How do I get him the information he needs to order this in..
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I know this is an old topic but my dealer says he had never heard of this. How do I get him the information he needs to order this in..
If your dealer is looking at the parts listings for '08/'09 he's not going to find it. He has to look at later years for the part number.
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And where can I buy?
card Fob key
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And where can I buy?
card Fob key
Your Kawi dealer.
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we dealers are stupid and expensive
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Got the same problem over here... :rotflmao:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1560.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1560.0)
The fob that you get has to have the unique id number with it. Typically this is on the bag it come in. It is not printed on the fob or in it that I'm aware of...
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we dealers are stupid and expensive
At least you admit it ;D
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I'd like to bump this conversation for some clarification. I have washed my original fob one time too many, and now it is working then not working. It seems to drain the battery pretty quickly (like in 3hrs). I want to be clear about the credit card FOB, does it work the SAME as the original that came with my 08? Like I can just get on the bike and ride? I believe I saw a post where someone stated that you had to wave it around the ignition to get it to work.
Just would like some clarification,
Scott
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You have to hold it against the switch housing to start the bike.
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You're not going to mention the secret incantation?
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You're not going to mention the secret incantation?
If he did then it wouldn't be secret any longer now would it?
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I'd like to bump this conversation for some clarification. I have washed my original fob one time too many, and now it is working then not working. It seems to drain the battery pretty quickly (like in 3hrs). I want to be clear about the credit card FOB, does it work the SAME as the original that came with my 08? Like I can just get on the bike and ride? I believe I saw a post where someone stated that you had to wave it around the ignition to get it to work.
Just would like some clarification,
Scott
The full sized fob works in two ways. One is the method that uses the fob's battery to send out a confirmation signal to the bike from a short distance after the stove knob is pressed. The other doesn't use the fob's battery (this is the method the smaller fobs use, they have no battery) and the fob must be placed in very close proximity to the top of the ignition boss.
There is also a difference in the way the bike is programmed to recognize these fobs. Since the full sized fob can give the bike the 'go ahead' to start in two ways (at a distance and placing it on the ignition boss in case of a dead fob battery) so the programming for the full sized fob has two segments. The smaller fob only has one segment that needs to be addressed.
There's a bit more to this but basically that's it.
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If he did then it wouldn't be secret any longer now would it?
sshhh....nobody reads the owners manual.
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sshhh....nobody reads the owners manual.
There's an owners manual? ;)
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Thanks Conrad. Is it possible to program my 08 for both? I'm liking the idea of keeping my original fob in my jacket (instead of my pants pocket!), but would like to have the other type for maybe emergencies or that time when I don't wear the right jacket..... So I was thinking of purchasing BOTH!
Scott
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Thanks Conrad. Is it possible to program my 08 for both? I'm liking the idea of keeping my original fob in my jacket (instead of my pants pocket!), but would like to have the other type for maybe emergencies or that time when I don't wear the right jacket..... So I was thinking of purchasing BOTH!
Scott
Yes, C14s of all years can be programmed to recognize both types of fobs. Not all shops have the knowhow to do it right off the bat though. If you only have one fob right now you had better treat that thing like gold until you can get one more fob that works with your bike. If you lose the one fob that works you are going to be in for a BIG surprise. Get another fob ASAP or you're looking at around $700 or more to get your bike working again.
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The FOB which you currently say drains its' battery and works on again/off again could still work as a passive FOB forever. I'd try it -
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The FOB which you currently say drains its' battery and works on again/off again could still work as a passive FOB forever. I'd try it -
Just at the stealer this morning....287.50 for a new fob!!! This is crazy! It looks like I will be using this one for a while! Why is it that I can find plenty of wrecked C14s for sale online, but never the fobs? Never mind...
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Just at the stealer this morning....287.50 for a new fob!!! This is crazy! It looks like I will be using this one for a while! Why is it that I can find plenty of wrecked C14s for sale online, but never the fobs? Never mind...
Do you have just one fob? Just one? If so, and you lose that one you are going to be screwed! Buy one of the smaller passive only fobs for less than $40 online and get your bike programmed to recognize it right away. Perhaps you don't understand but if you lose the one working fob it is going to cost you well over $700 to get your bike working and there is no getting around it.
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Do you have just one fob? Just one? If so, and you lose that one you are going to be screwed! Buy one of the smaller passive only fobs for less than $40 online and get your bike programmed to recognize it right away. Perhaps you don't understand but if you lose the one working fob it is going to cost you well over $700 to get your bike working and there is no getting around it.
As in...all fobs lost = new ecu. Get the cc fob and put it in your wallet, or let it ride in the tank glove box.
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As in...all fobs lost = new ecu. Get the cc fob and put it in your wallet, or let it ride in the tank glove box.
New ECU + labor = WAY more than the $40 cost for a new passive fob.
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Do you have just one fob? Just one? If so, and you lose that one you are going to be screwed! Buy one of the smaller passive only fobs for less than $40 online and get your bike programmed to recognize it right away. Perhaps you don't understand but if you lose the one working fob it is going to cost you well over $700 to get your bike working and there is no getting around it.
I have TWO dead fobs! I bought the bike used, and was given two FOBs. The previous owner told me that there was a primary and a secondary. I only used the primary. Well now that it is dead, I discovered the secondary is/has been dead. SO now I have two passive FOBs. Is the newer credit card FOB close enough to the ignition in the glove box to make it work? I ABSOLUTELY hate getting on the bike and then remembering that I have to dig out my fob, hold it up to the ignition, and start the bke. Then put it back away. I guess I'll get used to it!
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Maybe order a dozen batteries? Sounds like I'm kidding - but, maybe?
How long do new batteries usually last you?
I might stitch my passive fob and a spare battery into my jacket sleeve/cuff for extra measure. This fob system has been great so far but these threads are a touch of reality. I am glad my keychain isn't dangling from the ignition while riding - but Kipass sure is a handful of tech to solve a problem that hardly existed.
Connies should have come with 2 active fobs. I think my '09 did? My '10 didn't.
Sure wish the credit card fob was 'active'. Fancy cars have credit card fobs instead of bulky clunks of plastic. But as they say 'wish in one hand and $h1t in the other and see which one fills up first'.
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Have the fobs been taken apart and cleaned?
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I'm not understanding the 'dead' part. So they don't work even with new batteries? If that's the case, I've never heard of them going 'dead'... Unless they've both gone through the wash and have not been able to be revived.. How can two fobs go 'dead'?
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I'm not understanding the 'dead' part. So they don't work even with new batteries? If that's the case, I've never heard of them going 'dead'... Unless they've both gone through the wash and have not been able to be revived.. How can two fobs go 'dead'?
'E's a stiff! Bereft of life, 'e rests in peace! 'E's kicked the bucket, 'e's shuffled off 'is mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin' choir invisible!! THIS IS AN EX-FOB!!
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LOL
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I'm not understanding the 'dead' part. So they don't work even with new batteries? If that's the case, I've never heard of them going 'dead'... Unless they've both gone through the wash and have not been able to be revived.. How can two fobs go 'dead'?
Bring out your dead (Monty Python) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GU0d8kpybVg#ws)
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Or, how about "He's dead, Jim." That fob must have been a redshirt in spirit....
Brian
'E's a stiff! Bereft of life, 'e rests in peace! 'E's kicked the bucket, 'e's shuffled off 'is mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin' choir invisible!! THIS IS AN EX-FOB!!
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Or, how about "He's dead, Jim." That fob must have been a redshirt in spirit....
Brian
In the script the character would just be "FOB #3".
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Twits! :battle:
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I know this is an old thread...but im dumb and lost my main FOB. so I have called my dealer and they ordered me a new one, I didn't even ask how much. My concern is my ecu has a ghul reflash, will the dealer alter that when they program the for the replacement FOB?
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Good question but I don't think so. They are only registering the FOB, not doing anything else that I'm aware of. Also there are two ECUs, one does the engine bit and the other does the KIPASS stuff. I think they only mess with the one for KIPASS which would not have been the ECU that was re-flashed.
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Guess I will find out. I didn't notice the message until about a half mile form the office, I assume it must have fallen out of my butt then and immediately displayed "no transponder", im going to take another look, it kills me that I was that stupid this morning.
What makes me nervous is when I called my dealer they told me they needed to check and would get back to me. Certainly I cant be the only one in RI to ever loose this.
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I assume it must have fallen out of my butt then and immediately displayed "no transponder", im going to take another look,
You weren't sitting on the bike OR wearing pants? :yikes:
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I have one of those new corbin concrete seats .....my @$$ was so numb I couldn't feel it!
Pants....I used to ride Harleys....no protection needed.
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Guess I will find out. I didn't notice the message until about a half mile form the office, I assume it must have fallen out of my butt then and immediately displayed "no transponder", im going to take another look, it kills me that I was that stupid this morning.
What makes me nervous is when I called my dealer they told me they needed to check and would get back to me. Certainly I cant be the only one in RI to ever loose this.
I'm not sure which is worse. Your fob storage spot or the fact that it fell out of that spot and you didn't notice! :o :hitfan:
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The man said he rode Harleys. He eats fobs for breakfast.
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The man said he rode Harleys. He eats fobs for breakfast.
He might want to add some fiber to his diet, maybe some oatmeal?
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Changing the battery might keep things running smoothly.
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It would seem that fobs are more durable and water tight than we thought.
Brian tested his by soaking it in water, wine, and booze. 1Jeep tested his by soaking it in, well, you know...
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plenty of fiber In my diet...that might be why it slide out so easily.
Anyway I spent an hour going up and down the street in front of my office and could not find it, I guess I will be seeing my dealer soon. The only thing I can think of is possibly it didn't display the message immediately and maybe I lost it on the highway.
using the little emergency card sucks, it does work but really sucks.
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We had pictures of Brians' soak hopefully we won't see 1jeeps......
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plenty of fiber In my diet...that might be why it slide out so easily.
Anyway I spent an hour going up and down the street in front of my office and could not find it, I guess I will be seeing my dealer soon. The only thing I can think of is possibly it didn't display the message immediately and maybe I lost it on the highway.
using the little emergency card sucks, it does work but really sucks.
You might want to check some online pricing before you check the dealer's price. You will have to see the dealer for programming though.
DO NOT WAIT to get a new fob! If you lose the last working fob it will cost you a BUNCH of money to get your bike working again.
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I just ordered the FOB from my dealer, $290 with programming, that is almost the same price as I found on line without programming, $287 was what I found on line. They told me about a half hour to program.
I will refrain from posting pictures of where I keep FOBs...
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Thank you :)
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Actually my wife has already suggested I continue to store them in the same spot but maybe further up.
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I just ordered the FOB from my dealer, $290 with programming, that is almost the same price as I found on line without programming, $287 was what I found on line. They told me about a half hour to program.
I know this has been repeated over and over, but here once again, be sure that they also program the passive part of your new active FOB and then you test it by removing the battery and trying the passive portion before you leave. Many service departments don't know that the active FOB is two FOBs in one.
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Thanks for the info, I had no idea....until the other day I only kept it in my tank bag, it was a real mystery why.
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I know this has been repeated over and over, but here once again, be sure that they also program the passive part of your new active FOB and then you test it by removing the battery and trying the passive portion before you leave. Many service departments don't know that the active FOB is two FOBs in one.
In addition to the above you will want to have all of your fobs with you when the shop programs your bike to recognize the new fob. See the attachment for more info, starting on page 3 I believe.
http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=455 (http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=455)
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Conrad...Thanks, that's some good info!
After talking to my dealers service dept Saturday they have done this before, I am not the first to loose a fob.i was told a couple days for the new one to arrive, so only one more week of using that little fob.
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Not exactly related; BUT,,,
My pet peeve is still that I have to carry 3 things; * a FOB,
** a key (for gas and saddle bags),
*** a key for the Trunk.
All of which can become lost or misplaced.
(I hate the little key inside the Active FOB, and haven't modified the Trunk to accept another key)
So, I ; bought a leather Key Case. (It has 2 compartments and clips for 6 keys). ($15.00 on Ebay)
had new Saddle Bag and Trunk keys made. ($5.00 @ Ace Hardware)
removed all but "2" of the Key Clips.
"attached" the FOB to the Key Case, and placed it inside of 1 of the (Key Case) compartments.
attached my 2 new keys (Saddle/Gas and Trunk) to the "2" key Clips.
Result; I now have everything attached to 1 key case .
(As long as I don't loose the Key Case) I'm less likely to loose the FOB...
keys can be easily used without detatching them from the Key Case...
Key Case is a soft leather that wraps around the keys, and won't scratch the bike...
Ride safe, Ted
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Great if you found a solution that works for you Ted. Just to add a thought to your comments though- one can just use the 'stove knob' key in the ignition for everything on the bike. Some will say it is "Bad Juju" for some reason or other but it is not only the intended design (that is why there is an FSS position on the ignition- so the key can be used for 'Fuel, Saddle and Storage') but it also works quite well; I use my bike in that manner and have since it was new in '07, 98K miles ago. So far, nothing bad has happened.... at least nothing I can attribute to using the main key everywhere on the bike. ;) I think it is the easiest way to deal with the other locks on the bike anyway, the key is always there, right in front of me, ready to use (I always carry the C-14 key with me in a pants pocket).
As I said, just a different take on the situation. And usually the primer for a, er, lasting forum discussion. ;D
Brian
Not exactly related; BUT,,,
My pet peeve is still that I have to carry 3 things; * a FOB,
** a key (for gas and saddle bags),
*** a key for the Trunk.
All of which can become lost or misplaced.
(I hate the little key inside the Active FOB, and haven't modified the Trunk to accept another key)
So, I ; bought a leather Key Case. (It has 2 compartments and clips for 6 keys). ($15.00 on Ebay)
had new Saddle Bag and Trunk keys made. ($5.00 @ Ace Hardware)
removed all but "2" of the Key Clips.
"attached" the FOB to the Key Case, and placed it inside of 1 of the (Key Case) compartments.
attached my 2 new keys (Saddle/Gas and Trunk) to the "2" key Clips.
Result; I now have everything attached to 1 key case .
(As long as I don't loose the Key Case) I'm less likely to loose the FOB...
keys can be easily used without detatching them from the Key Case...
Key Case is a soft leather that wraps around the keys, and won't scratch the bike...
Ride safe, Ted
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I considered using the Stove Top key, but the FOB key was on hand, and seemed easier to use.
But you may be right.
I think this plan will work for me, as everything is in 1 location, and I don't keep searching my pockets to find the separate items...
You know, simple mind, simple solution.... 8)
And now,, back to the regularly scheduled discussion...
Ride safe, Ted
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What's your backup plan in case you lose the leather case?
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Spare trunk key stashed on bike.
Passive FOB in Trunk.
Ride safe, Ted
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"Once a KIPASS FOB has been programmed into the ECU of a motorcycle it cannot subsequently be programmed into the ECU of another motorcycle."
I guess you could call this another sad "FOB" story. I bought a new 2011 Concours in April of 2011 and it only came with the one, active KIPASS unit. Dealer didn't know anything about a spare, etc., etc. So, I just ponied up and bought a spare one for $260, or whatever, and had it programmed, tested, and then removed the battery and carried it in my top box as a spare (along with batteries, of course). I never had to use the spare FOB. So when I bought my new 2013 Concourse in February 2015 and then sold my 2011 on Craig's List I just kept the spare FOB even though my new bike came with the active FOB and the small spare one.
Subsequently, I decided to have the older spare FOB programmed to use on the new bike, made an appointment with the dealer, and took it in this morning. First drama, "we need the code number on the original baggie". Well, I dug that out and gave it to them - they were amazed that I had it (and so was I, actually).
Then, after another 20 minutes, or so, they reported that the older, spare FOB could not be programmed into my new Concours and showed me on their laptop some Kawasaki service bulletin that stated that a FOB that had been programmed into a bike could not ever be programmed into another one. I am posting this because I have seen numerous references on bulletin boards where people recommend finding used FOBs to program into bikes and I don't think it is possible once the FOB was orginally programmed to another bike.
Does anyone know anymore about this? It is really hard to believe, and so I have a call into Kawasaki customer service but have not heard back from them. It really galls me to have spent upwards of $300 and now all I have to show for it is a conversation piece!
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"Once a KIPASS FOB has been programmed into the ECU of a motorcycle it cannot subsequently be programmed into the ECU of another motorcycle."
Can anyone verify this? I just bought one as well....
Jamie
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Interesting.
First of all, the fob is not programmed and in fact, cannot be programmed. It is the KiPass unit on the bike that is programmed to recognize the particular fob's identification number.
As the fob cannot be changed, it is not possible to alter it in any way that would prevent it from being used not only on another motorcycle, but many motorcycles and all at the same time. For example: if a particular police dept. had a significant number of C-14's, they could all be programmed to respond to a single fob that, for example, the service dept. could keep and therefore use on any bike in the fleet.
The only way I can think of to defeat that process would be to register the fob's number along with a vehicle's VIN, associate the two (which would me than fob has been used on a motorcycle- that motorcycle specifically), and then upload that data to a data base that Kawasaki held. Then when using the KDS software to try and code any bike, the software could first scan the database to see if the fob(s) that were trying to be used on a particular bike had previously been used on a different C-14. With the 'Net available virtually everywhere today, it would be easy enough to require the KDS software to download a new database every single time it was powered up.
Of course the only reason to implement such a system would be to stop the sale and use of used fobs. There was not such a system in place previously but certainly Kawasaki could have installed it at any time without the consumer's knowledge.
Brian
"Once a KIPASS FOB has been programmed into the ECU of a motorcycle it cannot subsequently be programmed into the ECU of another motorcycle."
I guess you could call this another sad "FOB" story. I bought a new 2011 Concours in April of 2011 and it only came with the one, active KIPASS unit. Dealer didn't know anything about a spare, etc., etc. So, I just ponied up and bought a spare one for $260, or whatever, and had it programmed, tested, and then removed the battery and carried it in my top box as a spare (along with batteries, of course). I never had to use the spare FOB. So when I bought my new 2013 Concourse in February 2015 and then sold my 2011 on Craig's List I just kept the spare FOB even though my new bike came with the active FOB and the small spare one.
Subsequently, I decided to have the older spare FOB programmed to use on the new bike, made an appointment with the dealer, and took it in this morning. First drama, "we need the code number on the original baggie". Well, I dug that out and gave it to them - they were amazed that I had it (and so was I, actually).
Then, after another 20 minutes, or so, they reported that the older, spare FOB could not be programmed into my new Concours and showed me on their laptop some Kawasaki service bulletin that stated that a FOB that had been programmed into a bike could not ever be programmed into another one. I am posting this because I have seen numerous references on bulletin boards where people recommend finding used FOBs to program into bikes and I don't think it is possible once the FOB was orginally programmed to another bike.
Does anyone know anymore about this? It is really hard to believe, and so I have a call into Kawasaki customer service but have not heard back from them. It really galls me to have spent upwards of $300 and now all I have to show for it is a conversation piece!
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"Once a KIPASS FOB has been programmed into the ECU of a motorcycle it cannot subsequently be programmed into the ECU of another motorcycle."
I guess you could call this another sad "FOB" story. I bought a new 2011 Concours in April of 2011 and it only came with the one, active KIPASS unit. Dealer didn't know anything about a spare, etc., etc. So, I just ponied up and bought a spare one for $260, or whatever, and had it programmed, tested, and then removed the battery and carried it in my top box as a spare (along with batteries, of course). I never had to use the spare FOB. So when I bought my new 2013 Concourse in February 2015 and then sold my 2011 on Craig's List I just kept the spare FOB even though my new bike came with the active FOB and the small spare one.
Subsequently, I decided to have the older spare FOB programmed to use on the new bike, made an appointment with the dealer, and took it in this morning. First drama, "we need the code number on the original baggie". Well, I dug that out and gave it to them - they were amazed that I had it (and so was I, actually).
Then, after another 20 minutes, or so, they reported that the older, spare FOB could not be programmed into my new Concours and showed me on their laptop some Kawasaki service bulletin that stated that a FOB that had been programmed into a bike could not ever be programmed into another one. I am posting this because I have seen numerous references on bulletin boards where people recommend finding used FOBs to program into bikes and I don't think it is possible once the FOB was orginally programmed to another bike.
Does anyone know anymore about this? It is really hard to believe, and so I have a call into Kawasaki customer service but have not heard back from them. It really galls me to have spent upwards of $300 and now all I have to show for it is a conversation piece!
Did you read this below? I'm not 100% sure that the issue you mentioned is covered there or not but be sure to read what Brian posted. Sounds to me like your dealer is clueless, or nearly so...
In addition to the above you will want to have all of your fobs with you when the shop programs your bike to recognize the new fob. See the attachment for more info, starting on page 3 I believe.
http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=455 (http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=455)
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Did you read this below? I'm not 100% sure that the issue you mentioned is covered there or not but be sure to read what Brian posted. Sounds to me like your dealer is clueless, or nearly so...
As most of them are...
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Here is an update on the failure to program the spare FOB. I called Chris, the service manager at Sport Cycles in Rockingham, NC, where I bought my new, 2013 Concourse in February and ran the situation by him. He said he would research it and get back to me - and here is what he found. The small plastic bag I had stored the spare FOB in is actually the one that came with the original FOB for my 2011 Concours, hence the ID number on the bag is for the original FOB which is the one the new owner is using. Chris said that only original delivery FOBs come in the little bags and that replacement FOBs like the one I purchased for a spare come in a small cardboard box with the ID number on a label inside.
Naturally, the box is long gone and a call to Andy in the service department of the dealer where I bought my 2011 Concours (Twigg Cycles in Hagerstown, MD), and subsequently bought the spare FOB and had it programmed into the ECU, came up empty on finding the ID number for the spare FOB.
But wait - there is a ray of hope! You see, the spare FOB I have is still programmed into the ECU of the 2011 that I sold, so I called the guy who bought it and made the following proposal: I trade him the spare FOB I have (which is really brand new) for the original FOB he has (for which I have the ID number), plus give him a brand new small spare FOB (so he will now have a backup FOB), and pay for all the programming of the FOBs in the immobilizer. Nothing needs to be programmed into the ECU on his bike because the spare FOB I have is already registered in that ECU. The only programming on his bike is for the RFID chip immobilizer registration. He is a nice guy and he saw the benefit and wisdom in working out a system where he would have two FOBs - one active FOB and one small spare FOB.
Then, I can have the FOB he is currently using programmed into the ECU on my 2013 and register all the RFID chips in the immobilizer (two full-size FOBs and the small spare FOB).
I know it sounds kind of crazy to go to all this trouble, but I paid upwards of $300 for the spare FOB 4 years ago and I would like to have it as a backup. Meanwhile, the new owner of my 2011 is in a precarious position because he only has one FOB and if he lost that he would possibly be looking at having to purchase a new ECU for around $900. In any event, the plan is for us to make an appointment at a Kawasaki dealer in the next couple of week somewhere in our area (he lives near St. Augustine, FL and I am in Ocala, FL) and meet there and have all the programming done on the spot! >;o)
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I bought my Voyager XII from Twigg in the mid-90's..
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Hi Brian,
I decided to finally come across the street and see where you've been hangin' out. I'm glad you're still helping everyone with complications and confusion. Here's how I have prevented loss for 7 years now. I hope it keeps working. Notice NO release mechanism. ;D
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y400/markak1245/IMG_1092_zps3uuvw1oa.jpg) (http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/markak1245/media/IMG_1092_zps3uuvw1oa.jpg.html)
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So this negates the original story from the dealer about not being able to use a 'used' fob again on another bike? What they told you this time makes much more sense and sounds correct- just my opinion of course.
Brian
Here is an update on the failure to program the spare FOB. I called Chris, the service manager at Sport Cycles in Rockingham, NC, where I bought my new, 2013 Concourse in February and ran the situation by him. He said he would research it and get back to me - and here is what he found. The small plastic bag I had stored the spare FOB in is actually the one that came with the original FOB for my 2011 Concours, hence the ID number on the bag is for the original FOB which is the one the new owner is using. Chris said that only original delivery FOBs come in the little bags and that replacement FOBs like the one I purchased for a spare come in a small cardboard box with the ID number on a label inside.
<snip>
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Yep, been 'here' since I got my C-14 in '07; nice people, well moderated and usually quite pleaseant.
Yep, I am still helping to complicate things and confuse people. ;) :rotflmao:
What you have there is a fine idea and should work well. The only weak spot I can think of is the twine might wear a bit where it goes through the eyelet of the fob because it is so small (it has to be to fit- the eyelet is tiny). But as always, whatever method works for a person is the one to use I think. My only comments are usually trying to shoot down outright false 'truisms' and 'facts' such as 'never remove the main key' and so forth.
All of this reminds me- I should change the batteries in both fobs just because I cannot remember when it was last done- it should be long enough now.
Brian
Hi Brian,
I decided to finally come across the street and see where you've been hangin' out. I'm glad you're still helping everyone with complications and confusion. Here's how I have prevented loss for 7 years now. I hope it keeps working. Notice NO release mechanism. ;D
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y400/markak1245/IMG_1092_zps3uuvw1oa.jpg) (http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/markak1245/media/IMG_1092_zps3uuvw1oa.jpg.html)
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I use a metal chain which has a metal hook and is fastened to my belt. Goes well with the helmet and chain mail.
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we dealers are stupid and expensive
But you will be buying @ trade price :rotflmao: :chugbeer: