When cold in Eco mode the revs are higher on mine at 'idle' until the motor is warm (about 2 mins then sits down at is normal tickover speed.

Its normal for the motor to do this because of the mixture variation the various sensors give the ecu to run the bike.

If however it is doing this when warm it sounds like you have a glitch in one of the sensors be that fuel, air or mixture. The plug and play gizmo at the dealers will identify if there is a fault I'm sure.

i have a 2011 bought 2 months ago, 2000miles or so, mine hase been doing that since it came out of the box, figure it is normall. till it warms up,
andy

Update!!!!

I took it to the dealer, where it is now. They said that they started bike up, noticed the idle problem and don't think it is normal. They said they don't know what is wrong as no codes were thrown. They are waiting on a call from Kawasaki on where to go for this.
FWIW, I don't think it is normal and it borders on dangerous to have an idle at 2000 rpm, even if it is temporary.

Update!!!!

I took it to the dealer, where it is now. They said that they started bike up, noticed the idle problem and don't think it is normal. They said they don't know what is wrong as no codes were thrown. They are waiting on a call from Kawasaki on where to go for this.
FWIW, I don't think it is normal and it borders on dangerous to have an idle at 2000 rpm, even if it is temporary.

That is good to know you are not crazy, afterall    Do keep us posted with further updates!

My 2010 did this when it was new. The base idle was too high. After I adjusted it the surging problem went away.

My 2010 did this when it was new. The base idle was too high. After I adjusted it the surging problem went away.

My idle (from memory) is around 1100 rpm- I don't consider that too high.

Got a call from the dealer-
Kawasaki said that it is normal for the idle to fluctuate up and down while cold, no fix available.

Got a call from the dealer-
Kawasaki said that it is normal for the idle to fluctuate up and down while cold, no fix available.

Utter crap. Tell them that you are on the forum and that many hundreds of other owners have told you that it is NOT normal.

This morning I've carefully checked the engine start up and few moments later.
As soon as I crank up the bike, the engine goes up to 1400 rpms.
Temperature was 14 °C.
After about 1 minute and if I give just a quick turn to the throttle, it goes down to standard idle at 900 rpms.
For few seconds it goes up and down to 1300 and then it stabilizes.

For your info.

Ugo

Not normal.....mine goes up to about 1600 RPM's when cold, then settles down to 1100 when warmed up. Too bad Fred isn't here, bet he would be helpful.

Yeah, too bad..

Not normal.....mine goes up to about 1600 RPM's when cold, then settles down to 1100 when warmed up. Too bad Fred isn't here, bet he would be helpful.

Try using the Concours Owners Group forum. http://www.cog-online.org/ClubPortal/ClubStatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=13528

Just don't mention car tires...

I checked mine today. I turned the knob to "on" and pushed the starter button. No twist of the grip necessary or needed. The bike started right up and settled into a steady idle around 1400 rpm's. After it warmed up it went down to around 1000 rpm's.

I followed that up with a 2hr. ride, after which I filled with more 93 octane. I have an 08 C14. I do my own maintenance and run 93 octane always. I should mention that the flies have been removed and a Power Commander installed.

The bike idled the same before I installed the PC.

Yeah, too bad..

+1

Well, here's my theory, tell me what you think:
Bike needs more fuel when cold. It runs lean and when I engage eco mode, it makes the fluctuation worse as this is a leaner map.
The bike has an erratic tic. To my ears, it sounds like an exhaust leak and is always present. I am thinking the header bolts need to be tightened and that can help it run better at cold.

Well, here's my theory, tell me what you think:
Bike needs more fuel when cold. It runs lean and when I engage eco mode, it makes the fluctuation worse as this is a leaner map.
The bike has an erratic tic. To my ears, it sounds like an exhaust leak and is always present. I am thinking the header bolts need to be tightened and that can help it run better at cold.

Sounds reasonable. Get in there and tighten up those exhaust header bolts and see what happens.

I think I fixed it! Maybe this will get me into the C14 Hall of Fame???

Today, early into  my drive, I let off the throttle and the rpm went straight to zero- engine stopped running! I hit start and it started right up.
When i got back home, I checked the tightness on header nut closest to the fairing inlet- it was super loose! Every nut I was able to access (all but the inner nuts on 2&3) were very loose. I tighten them up the best I could and the loud ticking that was there before was almost gone. I hear a muted tick that seemed to go away when the bike was warmed, but I know I'll need to remove tupper ware and do it proper, including those nuts I was unable to access.
Oh, how did it idle? After tightening, i did some errands with wife for a few hours and when I got home, bike was good and cold. Started bike up, switched on Eco (since this made it worse). Idle jumped to 1400 (not 2000 like before) and quickly went back down to 1000. I drove up the street, let off throttle, it went straight down to 1000! I drove it the exact same way I do when the idle fluctuated wildly and the bike had perfect idle-no fluctuating!
Got to the garage, with helmet off, sounded pretty good, idle sounded smoother.
Here's my bottom line- if you have wildly fluctuating idle, check your header nuts as they are probably looser than Octamoms baby shooter. A thought went in my head to let the dealer tighten the nuts but I have a feeling that they might charge me saying that tightening nuts and bolts is a maintenance issue.
For those who posted that they have the same issue, check the tightness on your header nuts and report back.

The last time I went to the dealer with my bike for TPS replacement they asked about the header nuts and the other recall/service bulletin items. This is a known issue and has been on the forum before. I would find another dealer for the things you can't do on your own. The dealer should have checked this. I would drop a nickel on the dealer.

Glad to hear the good news.   

The last time I went to the dealer with my bike for TPS replacement they asked about the header nuts and the other recall/service bulletin items. This is a known issue and has been on the forum before. I would find another dealer for the things you can't do on your own. The dealer should have checked this. I would drop a nickel on the dealer.

Glad to hear the good news. 

I thought it was a dime?

The exhaust header nuts are a maintenance item and no dealer is going to tighten em up for free.