Author Topic: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.  (Read 10474 times)

Offline Grant Borden

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #20 on: September 08, 2011, 12:52:34 PM »
I am not a audio engineer, just a tinkerer, the circuit I made helped some, leaving a lot to be desired and not enough to satisfy me. Upon return of my engineering friend he will tackle the problem to attempt to design the circuit to make it satisfactory. If there is a solution to the problem I feel as though he can find it.
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Offline stewart

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #21 on: September 09, 2011, 03:20:50 PM »
Mocked up one circuit I found on the web using static resistors. Testing in the garage calling the wife, she said it was clear, but I sounded distant. I need to test on the road to see how much of an improvement it is.

I have another circuit to build with a Pot (variable resistor) which I'm hoping might give me more fine grain tuning control.

I'll report back.
Stewart
2010 Concours14
COG 9380

Offline BS-in-KS

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #22 on: September 09, 2011, 03:52:13 PM »
I'm trying not to hold my breath. But I'm excited! :)

Brent S.

Offline B.D.F.

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #23 on: September 09, 2011, 04:12:01 PM »
First of all, how far is your garage from your house? Sorry- couldn't resist....  ;D

You can buy an inexpensive microphone attenuator from places like this: http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Audio-Cables/DSLR-Audio-Cables/Sescom/LN2MIC-ZOOMH4N.xhtml?LN2MIC-ZOOMH4N

Not sure how much attenuation the Starcom / Zumo combination needs though and the attenuator I mentioned above is pretty substantial at 25 dB.

Your variable resistor (or pot) idea should work well- just turn the gain down until the over modulation (distortion) goes away then measure the resistance of the variable resistor at that point. Then the circuit can use fixed components.

Thanks for sharing this info. with the rest of us.

Brian


Mocked up one circuit I found on the web using static resistors. Testing in the garage calling the wife, she said it was clear, but I sounded distant. I need to test on the road to see how much of an improvement it is.

I have another circuit to build with a Pot (variable resistor) which I'm hoping might give me more fine grain tuning control.

I'll report back.
Homo Sapiens Sapiens and just a tad of Neanderthal but it usually does not show....  My Private mail is blocked; it is not you, it is me, just like that dating partner said all those years ago. Please send an e-mail if you want to contact me privately.

KiPass keeping you up at night? Fuel gauge warning burning your retinas? Get unlimited peace and harmony here: www.incontrolne.com

Offline stewart

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #24 on: September 09, 2011, 08:11:26 PM »
Good and bad news.

With each circuit and the engine off, the audio improves a lot.

But with the engine on and idling in the garage, the audio is so bad I can't hear myself talking using a 1866.... Test phone number. Plug the Starcom1 MIC-02 cable back in and the audio is back to current state.

This is beyond my talents...I'm not happy.
Stewart
2010 Concours14
COG 9380

Offline DonB

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #25 on: September 09, 2011, 08:19:18 PM »
Stewart------I thought sure you were headed for a break through  ;)
it seems a shame to me that we can not just buy something plug it in and it work.
everything has to turn into a hassle.....
2012 Candy Arabian Red C14 but it's not Red to me
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Offline B.D.F.

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #26 on: September 09, 2011, 08:26:32 PM »
That sounds like you are picking up electrical noise (spark noise or whine and white noise from the alternator) from the bike. The usual cure is to use isolated cables on the audio and occasionally, the power side of the Starcom.

Mine does not use a power input isolated cable but I am using the standard Starcom audio cables, which are isolated I believe.

The C-14 is a pretty 'quiet' bike electrically because of the stick coils; there is no high voltage anywhere outside the engine (except maybe right on top of the valve cover) so there is little risk of picking up ignition noise. You might have alternator noise in the Starcom though. There are a few methods to try and reduce that: do not run any wires to / from the Starcom next to any of the bike's harness wires, and especially not with the wires coming from the alternator. When crossing other wires with the Starcom cables, try to do it as close to 90 degrees as possible; this will reduce the induction in the Starcom's wiring. You might have to simply re-wire the Starcom, starting with the 12 volt power wires, and see if you can eliminate the noise you are now picking up.

Brian


Good and bad news.

With each circuit and the engine off, the audio improves a lot.

But with the engine on and idling in the garage, the audio is so bad I can't hear myself talking using a 1866.... Test phone number. Plug the Starcom1 MIC-02 cable back in and the audio is back to current state.

This is beyond my talents...I'm not happy.
Homo Sapiens Sapiens and just a tad of Neanderthal but it usually does not show....  My Private mail is blocked; it is not you, it is me, just like that dating partner said all those years ago. Please send an e-mail if you want to contact me privately.

KiPass keeping you up at night? Fuel gauge warning burning your retinas? Get unlimited peace and harmony here: www.incontrolne.com

Offline stewart

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #27 on: September 11, 2011, 11:17:24 AM »
I don't experience engine noise on my setup and all my leads are isolated. I'm not sure what introducing a hack job with bare wires (no insulation) in the middle to test this does, but clearly its not ideal.

While browsing the Zumo forum, reading a bike mag today on a flight and pondering this, I might just spend the money on a lead to hardwire the phone to the Starcom and eliminate bluetooth and the zumo. But that really pisses me off.

As I've said everything else works perfectly and even the Zumo on its own paired to the phone works well hands free....it just doesn't make any sense.
Stewart
2010 Concours14
COG 9380

Offline Grant Borden

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #28 on: September 11, 2011, 03:55:27 PM »
OK....


I will try to post a picture of the completed circuit later if needed.

These components were not available at Radio Shack, Found them at an electronics supply store. I have ordered a small plastic project box about 1" X1.5"X.75" to house the circuit and it will be attached with velcro to the Zumo mount.

Before building this circuit read the last paragraph for a much better design.

I enlisted the help of a Telecommunications Tech, with design of a proper circuit. Greg found that a 1meg Potentiometer (pot) was necessary and a 1ufd electrolytic capacitor (cap) using shielded audio cables to keep out any stray electrical noise. The cable needs a 2.5mm female connector/socket on the Starcom1 Advance end and a male 2.5mm plug on the GPS end. A pot is needed to properly adjust the audio output level of the Starcom1 to each persons voice/helmet because every voice is different and where the mic is located in the helmet in relationship to their lips.

When building the circuit using a shielded audio cable as above, cut and connect the center conductor from the Starcom1 side and the negative side of the cap to the center conductor of the pot and connect the GPS side of the cable center conductor and the positive side of the cap to one of the other legs of the pot. Remove insulation from the other conductor and attach it to the remaining unused leg of the pot cable. Remove the mic plug from the GPS and plug it into the female connector of the made up circuit and the male end into the GPS, adjust the pot to mid range and test the phone by turning the pot to get the best results for you voice, mic and phone. I used a phone answering machine to record various settings of the pot with its position noted to adjust the pot correctly.

To better undestand my testing I'm 5' 9" with a 29" inseam. After adjusting the pot where it sounded best I rode the bike making calls to test it. No one knew I was riding my bike while calling them until I told them I was. At 60 mph with Cee Bailey (CB) Ultra tour fully down, my face shield open on my full face helmet no one could hear wind noise, with the CB shield up at 80 mph it was as clear as when I was sitting still and also on my answering machine.

Grant

After more research the circuit has been changed and it now has much better response volume wise, operating as it should have from the factory. The change is using the same components cut shielded audio cable as above, connect the center conductor from the Starcom1 side to one side of the pot and the negative side of the cap to the center conductor of the pot and connect the GPS side of the cable center conductor to the other outside pot connector with the positive side of the cap to the same leg of the pot. DO NOT attach the second conductor of the shielded cable to the pot.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2011, 08:24:27 PM by Grant Borden »
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1993 Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000
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Offline stewart

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #29 on: September 11, 2011, 04:14:16 PM »
I have renewed hope, I need shielded wiring and a capacitor.....

I look forward to the pics for further guidance.
Stewart
2010 Concours14
COG 9380

Offline Grant Borden

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2011, 06:11:15 PM »
picture
1976 BMW R60/6
1980 Vespa P200E
1993 Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000
2008 Kawasaki Concours14

Offline Grant Borden

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2011, 06:12:00 PM »
picture
1976 BMW R60/6
1980 Vespa P200E
1993 Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000
2008 Kawasaki Concours14

Offline kosconcours

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #32 on: October 09, 2011, 12:30:57 PM »
Hallo guys.I m from Greece and i m a happy  owner of a concours 09.
Recently I put a  starcom1 advance system and everything works fine.I have connected gps ,a Midland PMR and a mpe player
My only problem is when I connect my TIBO A1200 gps to the bike socket I can  hear the engine running through my headphones.I put an extra  socket connected  the wires straight to the battery with no results then  I  put an audio filter 5 Ampere to the new socket  between +12V and the ground...... nothing . When I use the gps with the own battery everything its fine.Have someone any idea what i have to do????

Offline stewart

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #33 on: October 09, 2011, 09:47:01 PM »
You need a isolated audio cable from starcom1, or some other source.

Stewart
2010 Concours14
COG 9380

Offline kosconcours

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #34 on: October 12, 2011, 01:02:24 PM »
thank you steward for your advise
 I hope one of this two items I have ordered  do my job




Offline kosconcours

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Re: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system.
« Reply #35 on: October 20, 2011, 12:23:45 PM »
with this ground loop isolator the engine noise gone