Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Elfmaze on April 19, 2012, 04:55:25 PM
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OK guys if ever i needed help here it is..... i was working on installing my bars with a universal joint in the torque wrench. There was a bit of resistance but the hole was full of red locktight so i though it might be normal....
Bolt head snapped off in the engine mount....
I dug into it as much as i could, the amount of torque on it was huge i guess buy it hadn't triggered the 44ft lbs yet. I tried grabbing it with vice grips but they just twist when i try turn it out... I'm flat outa ideas
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a116/Elfmaze/IMAG0258-1.jpg)
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I feel a little better after seeing the micro fiche. its a $35 bracket that is possibly dead, but any ideas to get it out or should i just replace the bracket?
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In my opinion, it will be well worth $35 to start over with cleanly machined holes for the fasteners.
The only effective way to remove that fastener is almost certainly to drill it out. The first drills through the bolt can be very small but the final drill bit size will have to be close to the root diameter of the bolt. As the hole drilled will almost certainly not be centered or perfectly straight, it is likely some threads will be damaged in the removal of that stud from the aluminum casting.
Best of luck either way,
Brian
I feel a little better after seeing the micro fiche. its a $35 bracket that is possibly dead, but any ideas to get it out or should i just replace the bracket?
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The fiche on ron ayers is for 2010 this is a 2011. It should be the same part correct?
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Try Babbit's: http://www.babbittsonline.com/kawasaki-motorcycle-parts (http://www.babbittsonline.com/kawasaki-motorcycle-parts)
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If your in a rush a you or a local machine shop can drill that out and install a heli-coil, spin a new bolt in and your done. I'd spend the $35 personally.
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www.kawasaki.com (http://www.kawasaki.com) website have an excellent parts fiche, right up to 2012 model. i always use that site to look up part numbers.
from main website -> owners info -> parts diagram
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I would try using a dremel and a cutoff wheel to create a 1/4" deep "slot" so you can turn it out with a screwdriver. Once you drill, you have no other choices...
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If your in a rush a you or a local machine shop can drill that out and install a heli-coil, spin a new bolt in and your done. I'd spend the $35 personally.
+1 on the helicoil...I have R/C airplanes that have aluminum heads and if you tighten up the glow plug too much, you have to use the helicoils. They're fine to use and the motor runs perfectly fine with it (no compression leaks).
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OK we were abel to get it out! one of my friends took the bracket off and welded a bar to the bolt end. we were able to then really torque it out. I ordered the new bracket and the new bolt torqued properly so I'll keep an eye on it and probably swap out the bracket next service :chugbeer:
Lesson learned. 24" torque wrenches are scary amount of force and should be respected around delicate mechanics!!!
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When bolts break off, drill it out then use the appropriate sized "ez-out." there available from tool stores, shouldn't damage anything.
Dave
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When bolts break off, drill it out then use the appropriate sized "ez-out." there available from tool stores, shouldn't damage anything.
Dave
please, note that the problem has been corrected.
also note the content in the thread prior to the point of your answer.
thanks,
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When bolts break off, drill it out then use the appropriate sized "ez-out." there available from tool stores, shouldn't damage anything.
Dave
I'm not sure the easy out would have given us the torque needed to wrench this one out. It was REALLY jammed in there. But i didn't know easy outs existed so I will keep them in mind for standard breaks in the future!
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Too late to mention this but I would have used a grinder to make a new flat spot on 2 opposite sides then grab again with the vice grips.