MC Enterprises Canyon Cages Install Notes

[B.D.F.]

Well I keep worrying that it wouldnt work on the left side with my cruise control being like this:
And I cant find pictures on line of the install showing this area.

Outstanding- that is one fine looking C-14. 

Canyon Cages cannot be installed on a C-14 that has a Rostra installed on the left side, as shown in that photo. So for any of us that do have a Rostra actuator installed there, we are outta' luck for a Canyon Cage install.

My plan is to move the actuator to the rear (Easy Boys!) of the bike on the left side so the Canyon Cages can be installed. Most likely just under the left saddlebag; once the yellow connector retainer is painted black I think the whole actuator will <more or less> disappear on the bike. Of course that assumes I do not end up with a ZX exhaust system on the bike....

Brian

[rocknrod]

I read you saying you wanted to place it back there in other threads. I already painted the yellow thing black, it blends right in inside the fairing now.
Bummer - I wanted to put on the cages too.
Maybe if your successful and it doesn't show so much and you post pics. . . 

[Smokeyzx]

Does it matter if it's a gen 1 or gen 2 bike? I was just about to install the rostra and then the canyon cages...

Outstanding- that is one fine looking C-14. 

Canyon Cages cannot be installed on a C-14 that has a Rostra installed on the left side, as shown in that photo. So for any of us that do have a Rostra actuator installed there, we are outta' luck for a Canyon Cage install.

My plan is to move the actuator to the rear (Easy Boys!) of the bike on the left side so the Canyon Cages can be installed. Most likely just under the left saddlebag; once the yellow connector retainer is painted black I think the whole actuator will <more or less> disappear on the bike. Of course that assumes I do not end up with a ZX exhaust system on the bike....

Brian

[rocknrod]

I believe the picture shown is a Gen 1 and mine is a Gen 2, they are both pretty much the same where that comes in.
But hey, if you remove the fairing and install the cages and the Rostra to ensure fit, it could happen 
Try it and take pics for everyone's knowledge.

[B.D.F.]

I do not believe so. The Rostra is just in the way of the Canyon Cages. Or vice- versa depending on which one you installed first :-)

This bike really is tight (Easy Boys!) for space. At first it seems OK but then when you start to farkle it up, suddenly there just is not much room for the stuff you thought was small in the first place. And it ends up with having to make choices- my air horn and alarm system is where some people put the Rostra actuator (under the top / right fairing cover). So putting the Rostra there is just not an option as I cannot find enough space to mount the aux. horn and alarm system anywhere else. There is almost zero room under the saddle on this bike, and not too much under the fairings. For me, the Canyon Cages were the last added and there just was not enough room given the previous, and well- liked farkles (HIDs, PC III, Stebel horn, alarm system, comm. system and various wiring additions (heated clothes, USB power supply, etc,. etc.))

Of all the farkles mentioned though, the Rostra can be mounted (Boys!) externally on the bike so that may be where mine ends up.

Brian

Does it matter if it's a gen 1 or gen 2 bike? I was just about to install the rostra and then the canyon cages...

[Rhino]

On Gen-2 bikes the Rostra fits nicely under the top right faring and the cable runs across the front of the tank and loops perfectly down the left side and up to the throttle. Leaves plenty of room for the canyon cages.

In another thread I told someone that the canyon cages and the rostra do not interfere. Obviously I was wrong if the rostra is mounted on the left side.

In any case I have a Gen-2 bike with both a Rostra and Canyon Cages and all is good.

[B.D.F.]

Yep, that will work just as well on a Gen.1 bike too. But as I said, that area under the top / right fairing is already full of air horn and alarm system so I cannot move my Rostra there.

Brian

On Gen-2 bikes the Rostra fits nicely under the top right faring and the cable runs across the front of the tank and loops perfectly down the left side and up to the throttle. Leaves plenty of room for the canyon cages.

In another thread I told someone that the canyon cages and the rostra do not interfere. Obviously I was wrong if the rostra is mounted on the left side.

In any case I have a Gen-2 bike with both a Rostra and Canyon Cages and all is good.

[rocknrod]

I have a Gen 2 with a vent tank? from the fuel system mounted on the right side under the fairing. Maybe I could remove that and reposition there. Thank you.

[Rhino]

Here's what it looks like in there.

[B.D.F.]

That is not a result of a Gen. 1 or Gen. 2 bike, it is because you have a California model (rather than the 49 state model). Some people have removed the charcoal filter but I cannot speak intelligently about it as I have a 49 state bike.... so someone else will hopefully chime in here as to what to remove / what to plug.

Brian

I have a Gen 2 with a vent tank? from the fuel system mounted on the right side under the fairing. Maybe I could remove that and reposition there. Thank you.

[Son of Pappy]

If my memory serves me correctly, there is a generous space behind the battery compartment, is there a reason the Rostra can't be installed there? 

[B.D.F.]

Well, I would not say 'cannot' but it is inside the frame and routing the wires and throttle cable out of there would be tough. And that space is only available on Gen. 1 models without ABS- that is where the ABS pump goes on all model C-14 that have it, which is all Gen. 2 bikes.

Also, it would be quite difficult to mount the Rostra (Easy Boys!) inside that compartment.

Brian

If my memory serves me correctly, there is a generous space behind the battery compartment, is there a reason the Rostra can't be installed there?

[maxtog]

Well, I would not say 'cannot' but it is inside the frame and routing the wires and throttle cable out of there would be tough. And that space is only available on Gen. 1 models without ABS- that is where the ABS pump goes on all model C-14 that have it, which is all Gen. 2 bikes.

Well, technically, there are some 2010 (which is gen2) bikes without ABS, since it didn't come standard until 2011.  But certainly true for all the 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014's, and probably MOST of the 2010's.

[rocknrod]

Well, I would not say 'cannot' but it is inside the frame and routing the wires and throttle cable out of there would be tough. And that space is only available on Gen. 1 models without ABS- that is where the ABS pump goes on all model C-14 that have it, which is all Gen. 2 bikes. Also, it would be quite difficult to mount the Rostra (Easy Boys!) inside that compartment.  Brian

I should have waited until this was posted to remove the tank last night and see if there was room. I believe about six inches back there may be enough room but as you say, wow very difficult place to work and getting wires back there . . .
I forgot to properly click down my red clip on the fuel line and didn't even think about it until it was aaaalllllll buttoned up and wiped down. Maybe after my workout tonight I can remove everything and do the job right the second time

[just gone]

I have a Gen 2 with a vent tank? from the fuel system mounted on the right side under the fairing. Maybe I could remove that and reposition there. Thank you.

That's what I did. I removed the vapor canister then plugged the green line and filtered the Blue line. Mounted the Rostra actuator and the Stebel compressor* in that area. Engine runs fine, no change in performance nor any obvious change in mpg.

*Stebel separated into compressor and horn connected by a hose. Horn is down in fairing with an exit hole in front of the radiator.

[cmoore]

I got my canyon cages installed yesterday. No problems at all. The right side motor mount bolt was a little tight but once it broke loose with the break over bar it came right out. The threads were nice and clean. The left side was real easy to get out. I did support the engine before I started the job but honestly I don't think it was needed. Thanks for all the tips and advice. Reading this thread helped me a lot.

[Stephen.G.Fiddes]

I got my canyon cages installed yesterday. No problems at all. The right side motor mount bolt was a little tight but once it broke loose with the break over bar it came right out. The threads were nice and clean. The left side was real easy to get out. I did support the engine before I started the job but honestly I don't think it was needed. Thanks for all the tips and advice. Reading this thread helped me a lot.

Glad it helped! 

I wonder if supporting the engine made the bolts easier to remove?  Just a thought.   Meh, people have been doing it without supporting the engine for a long time, BUT if it helps, why not?

[maxtog]

I wonder if supporting the engine made the bolts easier to remove?  Just a thought.   Meh, people have been doing it without supporting the engine for a long time, BUT if it helps, why not?

I didn't support the engine doing mine- it didn't seem to need it.  Although it was a ***** to remove those bolts- but I am quite sure that was due to over-application of thread lock (seems common on 2011+ models).  Anyway, probably enough other engine mounts to keep it in place (not sure though, I didn't pour through the factory manual to see).

[Stephen.G.Fiddes]

I didn't support the engine doing mine- it didn't seem to need it.  Although it was a ***** to remove those bolts- but I am quite sure that was due to over-application of thread lock (seems common on 2011+ models).  Anyway, probably enough other engine mounts to keep it in place (not sure though, I didn't pour through the factory manual to see).

Yeah the amount of thread locker on there was insane...

[JTX]

Very good writeup by the OP.

Has anyone tried this on a 2014-2015 yet ?

I have a set of cages on the way for my 2015 C14 and reading this makes me nervous as hell.  Almost to the point of not even attempting it. 

One question, what does this line mean:

As you get closer to getting the bolt out (As it gets easier; the threads still need to be catching tho. If they're not, you risk damaging expensive parts.), turn it back to the right a bit (This time with a slight jolt) to free the hex-head from the socket-cap bolt, then continue to remove the bolt.

Catching what ?