Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: LT South Africa on October 24, 2016, 10:22:39 AM
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Good day all.
I have just bought a 1988 GTR 1000
Due to erratic idling and sluggish drive I removed he carbs and had them reconditioned.
However, the bike has K & N filters installed. One per carb. So here is no air box.
On reinstalling the carbs I have two pipes / tubes coming from between 1&2 and then again between 3&4 carbs.
I have absolutely no idea where they should go.
Please help.
LT
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Good day all.
I have just bought a 1988 GTR 1000
Due to erratic idling and sluggish drive I removed he carbs and had them reconditioned.
However, the bike has K & N filters installed. One per carb. So here is no air box.
On reinstalling the carbs I have two pipes / tubes coming from between 1&2 and then again between 3&4 carbs.
I have absolutely no idea where they should go.
Please help.
LT
I can tell you right now that the bike will run poorly with those K&N pods. Throw those in the garbage right away and source the correct original air box and the rubber boots and get a new filter for it.
I believe your talking about the vent tubes.
They go nowhere and are to vent the carbs to the open air. there should be a clip on the each side of frame to hold the tubes.
See the two clear or yellowish hoses sticking up in this video. Those are the vent tubes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJpRePt9GNA&feature=plcp (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJpRePt9GNA&feature=plcp)
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I just have to laugh, everytime I watch Bubba do this in the video, I think about how many times I have done it, and shown people how to do it, and always find the humor knowing "I would NEVER video tape it myself" because I know exactly how many time it would have to be "bleeped" to mask the loud "SONOFAB----" and "OUCH, DAMMIT THAT HURT...." that I'm sure he and I have shared a hundred times, before we got it down pat... not to mention the many bandaids.... and blood....
Just love that video....
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Thanx. I thought as much. I'm not having any luck sourcing a filter box from a breakers yard. And I might as well buy another Connie for the price of am import from Japan. As a temporary fix I am going to see if I can reduce the airflow by blocking off some of the racing filter. Maybe some duct tape around the filter will work.
LT
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You should be able to locate one easily on ebay, for very little cost, from someone with a wrecked bike..
Or do a search here for The Wizard, he sells used parts....contact him...
He is mostly on our other forum...
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=66588.msg544994#msg544994 (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=66588.msg544994#msg544994)
Also this fellow may have one for you....
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=21741.msg270053#msg270053 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=21741.msg270053#msg270053)
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Thanx guys. eBay is a pain from South Africa. I used it frequently when in Scotland. Many occasions received delivery the next day. Here, we are lucky if we get ye delivery in 2 months. If we ever get it. Lol........ Our postal system is not the greatest. There are very ew Connie's in breaker yards here. Wonder if it's because they are all still running. Lol...... But I will give eBay a try. Will just be a long wait
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You should also know that you could get carbs and airbox used on any C-10 from 1986 thru 2006. They are pretty much all the same except for differences going to each country. Some carbs have heaters built it that use the coolant system, some have limiters for the travel of the slide (less HP), and I think there are a few other small differences. As far as I know none of these would greatly affect drivability, and should bolt up perfectly. After reading the predicament you are in due to your location, I would tend to get the first "nice" set you come across. It will also be a great time to put in both new throttle cables as these are very hard to get to if they break. Good luck in your search.
I cannot recall, does anyone else know if our carbs were used on a different bike to help broaden his search? GPZ900?
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I understand the carbs for the Connie are also used in the zx 1000 which was available in south Africa in the 80's and early 90's as well. I still
Cannot find any though. To make matter worse. I have learned that only 25 GTR 1000 were brought into South Africa at the time. So now I am understanding the difficulty in getting replacement carbs. Other than importing from Japan at unaffordable cost. Kawasaki south Africa are not interested in assisting. At this point I am concentrating on getting Keihin VE 65's to work perfectly. The bike is running okay. Consumption is good. But it's sluggish on low revs and because I cannot adjust the floats the bike is smelling of fuel. However, inspection of the spark plugs indicate it's running lean. So I am very confused and don't know which way to go.
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I also cannot get a air filter box to replace the k & n racing filters so I am toying with fabricating my own filter box from mild steel. Or maybe fibreglass resin.
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LT
Contact wizard, the person I noted in post #4
I'm sure he could assist, he has a big stockpile of parts, and I'm sure could arrange affordable shipping to you if you pay him up front, he is reliable, we all can vouch for him.... he's a good member....
another link to his contact...
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=68342.msg566312#msg566312 (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=68342.msg566312#msg566312)
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In what part of RSA do you live? I have a friend in PE that may be able to help with fiberglass, if you decide to go that route.
Making a new airbox shouldn't be terribly hard, but it'll be rather time consuming. The stock airbox does 'massage' the air into the carbs so the bike runs smooth at low-mid RPM's. You'll also need to make some provision for the air box 'boots' to the carb inlets.
Best bet is to find a derelict airbox and make it work.
Rick
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I am on the west of Johannesburg in Lanseria. PE is an overnight courier service away.
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Thanx man of blues. I will look into this as an option. Unfortunately finances are on reserve for awhile
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Unless you are really adept at working with fiberglass, I wouldnt go that route. If the airbox didnt have that horizontal piece which the filter seals against it would be a lot easier to fabricate but making one with that piece and maintaining similar airflow characteristics would be challenging.
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Just to let you all know. Even though I have sluggish throttle response I have just run a tank of fuel and my consumption was calculated at 15.5 km per litre. I don't think that's too bad for a 28 year old girl with 4 carbs. Can't wait to get an original air filter box and set of original carbs to see what the consumption will be like then. This will however, have to wait until March next year.
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If my math is right, that's about 36.5 miles per gallon here in the states. With the proper carbs, airbox & tune you should be in the neighborhood of 25-35% better. :popcorn:
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Consider his location, and the actual fuel he is forced to buy, not by choice, but by supply and location....
Id say he is getting acceptable miles per gallon based on this..
You can't base mpg generically on "gas", as some places fuel is pretty damned poor.... buy gas in south america, and ride hard.... you might get 20 mpg...
Mexico? Maybe 25 mpg...
Ohio? Well, we have ethanol, but get 40 mpg....
I do think proper carbs and airbox, along with airfilter, and tuning would net better... but he's running carbs currently that are smaller in size, with pod filters...
Both effect mileage, and drastically at that, his carbs are having to run in "acceleration mode" for much more of their life, just to give acceptable performance, which still is degraded... it isn't like rolling along in "eco / cruise mode" as a larger carb size would provide..
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MOB you've hit the nail on the head. That's how my ride feels. No eco mod.
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I'm really struggling with the carbs now. Driving has become very erratic. I suspect some dirt has got in somewhere or unwanted air. This is my only mode of transport for work and I fear the bike is going to fail me on the road. I cannot afford a 2nd hand set of carbs here in South Africa for a good couple of months still. I don't suppose somebody would like to donate a set of carbs and airfilter box by any chance. I know this is going to produce much criticism and hate mail but I am desperate.
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... I don't suppose somebody would like to donate a set of carbs and airfilter box by any chance. I know this is going to produce much criticism and hate mail but I am desperate.
I don't know about donate, but check this thread out. The seller is above board. USPS (postal) shipping to RSA is at least $70 USD.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22050.msg273733#msg273733 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22050.msg273733#msg273733)
Rick
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Just to report back. Not being able to afford other carbs now I removed, stripped and cleaned the carbs for the umpteenth time. On every re installation I had the exact symptoms. Realizing there must be more to the sluggish and iratic response from the bike I decided to go the full monty. Checked valve clearenace several times. Still the same symptoms. Removed spark plugs. And cleaned. I noticed that the cap seal for cylinder 1 had a strange color on the outside which I can only describe as looking like rust. And the cap was wet/moist under the outer seal. I decided to run the motor and remove the spark plug HT cap to see if there was any difference in the motor. Starting to pull the HT cap off with my fingers all was going well. Then grabbing the lower end of the cap to remove it from the engine I got a wallop of a shock. I dropped the HT cap and it rested on the tappet cover. I noticed current jumping from both of the side's of the HT cap to the tappet cover. Realizing the HT cap was disintegrating in quality with a cut on each side causing the current to jump to earth and robbing the engine of much needed power and causing me to run on maybe just a little more than 3 cylinders. I wrapped the HT cap in insulation tape. To be safe I did all 3 other plugs HT caps as well. What a surprise. The bike started and idled smoothly. I then took it for a drive and experienced the smoothest drive I have ever had. Seems this was the source of my problems from the word go. Even though I have the wrong carbs with K&N racing pods. I did a long drive this morning and calculated my fuel consumption at just over 18 km per litre. I'm happy with this. Very happy actually. Thanx for all your in put guys. It is very appreciated.
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There is an old mechanic's saying: "75% of all carb problems are in the ignition."
Also: "80% of all ignition problems are the carbs."
When it runs bad you have to check EVERYTHING.
Glad you found your problem.
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I did a long drive this morning and calculated my fuel consumption at just over 18 km per litre. I'm happy with this. Very happy actually. Thanx for all your in put guys. It is very appreciated.
:banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana
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Managed to eventually source a set of CVK carbs here in RSA. Cleaned them up. New jets and float needle. Installed them and hit the starter switch. Experienced the sweetest engine sound this bike has ever had. Worlds apart from the VE carbs. The bikes quieter. Drives well and now feels like a true tourer. I can vouch for it. The original CVK carbs make this bike heaven to ride.
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Great news!
Were you able to also get a stock air filter box?
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanx Ted. I will have to wait and order a airbox from your side of the world in a couple of months. I don't find one in RSA and ex Japan new is far too expensive
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Maybe someone will read this that has a spare?
Anyone???
Ride safe, Ted
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(http://)Bike running well for a few days. Then very poor response on top end again. As if something was blocking the system. Did a strip down and started comparing jet sizes, jet needle size etc with what the manual says. Nothing matches. I'm thinking the Keihin agency has supplied me with the wrong parts or I just have the wrong carbs again. Please help me out here. The carbs say CVK at the top. 3/4 way down it says Keihin. Below that is printed V552 FH20. What does this represent? Is this the correct CVK carbs for the Concours 1000? Wish I could post a picture here of what I have
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Looks similar, but not exact..
Mine are V251 QHL. But different years may vary.
Not sure if right carbs,,, BUT,,,.The fact that it ran well and then went back to what it was doing indicates it isn't the carbs.
May be as simple as it's starving for gas. Check to see the fuel hose isn't kinked..
Or,, spark plug wires and caps.
Remove, clean and tighten the caps..
Ride safe, Ted
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The only thing of note I can add is that I had brand new needles which I installed. The floats were at 20 and 21 mm with the new needles. Obviously the old needles springyness, for want of a better word, was non exsistant. So i adjusted the floats back down to 17mm with the new needles. When I opened the carbs again I noted that my floats were riding at 19mm again. So I adjusted them down again to 17mm. A possible mistake I made last time is I laid the carbs flat and adjusted the floats from the top. Then after reading posts here I realised my mistake and now adjusted the floats holding the carbs at an angle with the tang just touching the needle. I get revs upto 6000rpm easy. After that it's labouring. But in all fairness. I don't expect touch after 6000rpm. Remember I don't have the original airbox and the CVK need that airbox vacume for the slides to work properly. However, now on pull off I am sludgy where before I had good revs. A little more twist of the throttle response gets better. I would just like to confirm that I do have the right carbs before ordering brand new kits which I think I need.
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Mine are V251 AJ08. This is a US made 1987 Connie (A2 I guess it would be). I think I might have a mostly complete set of carbs that I would probably never need and maybe an airbox. I keep reading this but forget to look.
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The 17mm float level adjustment is a starting point for getting the fuel level correct in the bowls. Look for the fuel level inspection procedure in the manual which will set the fuel level 0.5 mm (+/- 1mm) above the mating surfaces of the carb body and float bowl. This eliminates any variances caused by differences in the spring tension in the needle assembly.
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I have tried the fuel level way but I fail horribly at this. I live in a small cottage with no garage / carport or place to work. My sitting room doubles as a workshop most days. Lol.....
But I will try again.....
I have managed to restore much of the bike. Even a brand new paint job which I did myself. All on a very low budget. But it's the only transport I have. And she's a beautiful bike. I have never seen another one here in South Africa. Only 25 only ever came into South Africa .
One way or another. I will win this round. 😎
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The fuel height is the only way most of is ever set these up. The minute variations of needle springs make it almost impossible to set if you do it the measurement way - at least for most people. Here's my rig when ever it's needed. Should be pretty simple to mimic. Just DON'T do it in the house! You could replace the tank with a small container.
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P.S. - just do one bowl at a time then move to the next one.
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I think I can construct something like that. Will give it a try. My carbs do look different to yours. But I think it's more to do with your emmision control laws. My basic carbs matches yours. Without those extra pipes...
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Before.....
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And after
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Nice work LT :thumbs:
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Looks good.
Ride safe, Ted
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That's a nice color! I rebuilt my dad's and painted it black after he passed away. We had twin '87s. Mine was red and his was silver. Only about 200 apart on the assembly line. I sold mine last year - didn't need two.
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Thanx. I used Titanium from the BMW Pallett. I work for a coach company and we purchase loads of supplies and paint from a local automotive paint supplier. I told them I want to redo my bike. They sponsored me 1 little automotive paint of my choice and all the additional thinners, clear coat, hardener etc...... Made my day.....😎
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I think I can construct something like that. Will give it a try. My carbs do look different to yours. But I think it's more to do with your emmision control laws. My basic carbs matches yours. Without those extra pipes...
I'd like to see some more pics of those carbs, from the top down, and from the bottom.. also both sides of the rack, and from the rear...
from what I am seeing in your photos, they are not ZG/GTR carbs, there are no aircut diaphragms located (on #1 & #3)
Early Ninja models did not have aircut valves either, and came in permutations of 32mm, 34mm, and 36mm sizes (that is the actual diameter of the exit port, or Outlet, on the front of the carb)
what does the bore measure on yours?
the Concours had 32mm CVK32 thruout the length of production.
also, all of your float bowls have the drain screws pointing in the same direction... odd, because iirc on all installations, the screw drain points to the outboard side by half, left 2 point left, right 2 point right...
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Thanx MOB. Here are some pics
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I managed to do some research today. I have established that the carbs i have come off a Kawa GPZ 600 R
I downloaded the workshop manual and pulled out the spec's for both bikes. Here it is below:
KAWA – GPZ R 600 GTR 1000
1988 model 1988 model
CARBS CVK 32 MM CVK 32 MM
MAIN JET 105 125
MAIN AIR JET 100 130
PILOT JET 38 35
PILOT AIR JET 145 85
JET NEEDLE N27L N52M
FLOAT HEIGHT 17MM 17MM
The spec's according to the GPZ 600 R is exactly what i have in the carbs now.
The carb bodies both look the same. (To me...)
The carb descriptions are both 32mm CVK
If i look at it from an uneducated perspective. And i mean really uneducated. It would appear to me that if i just change all the jetting etc... to that of the GTR 1000 then i should be okay.
Or will I?
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the carbs do differ, the bodies are different... I'm suspecting you do have zx 900 A2 carbs, or zx1000 A1
neither have aircut valves, the differences in the actual jetting, is to overcome losses in accell/decell issues due to this fact, and also the Ninja chaindrive models had a different need than the conni, as they were a bit more fuel consuming...
see the addon, and shoot me a note if it does'nt work, and I'll send the diagrams and p/l's to you...
we did a lot of research on these carbs a dozen years ago, when we were "hotrodding" and modding the bike, trying to pump more fuel into it... funny, because we now find it can excede those gains, with much less fuel, and correct airflow.
check this out, let me know if it doesnt link..
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Thanx MOB.
I concluded I have the GPZ 600 R/Ninja carbs based on the jetting.
This is the actual jetting that the carbs have now.
MAIN JET 105
MAIN AIR JET 100
PILOT JET 38
PILOT AIR JET 145
JET NEEDLE N760
So effectively. If I change the above to the spec's of the 88 A1 I should be okay.
Is that correct?
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I think I might have a mostly complete set of carbs that I would probably never need and maybe an airbox. I keep reading this but forget to look.
[/quote]
Any chance in you parting with that airbox RFH87_Connie?
I'm just waiting for Man Of Blues to suggest a way forward on the jetting..... Unless you have a full set of all the jets laying around as well.....😎
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LT, (based on your jets) I think you have the carbs figured out correctly.
Probably the ZX-600 instead of the ZX-1000.
I'm not sure that installing Connie jets in your carbs will solve the issue, but might help.
MOB knows more about that than I do..
Looking at your carbs, the biggest issue is probably that some of the passages are stopped up.
Before I spent a lot of $$ on jetts, I'd do a very good clean.
Here is a EZ way to determine the carb size.
Measure the I.D. and O.D. of the carb ports at the engine side. (shown in photo's 1, 2, and 3)
Connie has a 32 mm carb.
I.D. is 32 mm (1.260'). O.D. is approx. 38 mm (1.490")
If a ZX-600 has a 32 mm carb,
I.D. is 32 mm (1.260'). O.D. is approx. 38 mm (1.490")
ZX-1000 has a 36 mm carb.
I.D. is 36 mm (1.417"). O.D. is approx. 42 mm (1.650")
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanx Ted. I will take them off tomorrow (Sunday here) and measure them up. Then of course it needs to be remembered that I am still running on pod filters until I can source a airbox.
However, when I installed these carbs and replaced the float needles with new ones it ran well. Just not after 6000rpm. When I removed the carbs and checked the float levels they were at 20mm x 3 and 1 x 21mm. Adjusted them down to 17mm. But I did this wrong as I had the carbs upside down. When I adjusted them again with the carbs slightly angled I found them to be 18 and 19mm. So I adjusted them down again to 17mm using the correct method at an angle. I am going to try again and check them with float tubes tomorrow. Maybe then I will get true values........ Maybe I should take the float levels back up a bit. Possibly 19mm...?
At the moment on innitial throttle the engine has a slight miss. Just a little throttle or about 1400 rpm and it's fine. Until about 6500rpm. Then there is a drop off of power and motor sounds like it wants to climb out of the frame. It's not the buzz. I know this now from about 4000rpm. It's much worse and difficult to describe. I expect conrods and piston parts to come flying out the engine casing. The engine is still running cool with the temp needle hardly rising. So I'm thinking it's just battling for either air or fuel...... Maybe the slides are not working properly because of the lack of an airbox. ???? Or the jet sizes are just wrong because it's not the correct carb again.
PS.... I spoke to the guys who sold me the carb and they say. I asked for CVK and they gave me CVK. Whether it's from a smaller cc bike or any other bike other than a Connie is not there problem. And they don't have a Connie chassis in their yard in any case. So it must be from another bike. But that the way it works here by us.... No ethics.... And a greed for money....
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I did measure the carbs and I got the following: see pictures attached.
I'm not sure if I should measure outside to outside or inside to inside.
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Another picture
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Then, I saw something which probably is a huge factor in the carbs running poor now. When I loosened the drain screws I immediately saw water flowing out. And this happened on all four carbs.
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However, once I had the water drained I did a float levels test with the tubes and I am proud to say that all four carbs are spot on......
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Think maybe you need to drain the tank?
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I did a tank flush....😎
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water had to come from somewhere
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My filler cap does not seal 100%. I need to get a new seal. I try and avoid the filler cap when I wash the bike. Obviously somtimes I miss.... 😥
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Your second photo is the one I was interested in.
On that photo, you measure outside to outside and inside to inside.
Measurement's you show, indicate it's a 32, mm carb.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21875.0;attach=27919 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21875.0;attach=27919)
As you know, it's not a Concours carb, but it is dimensionally correct.
If you have the carbs off now, give them a good cleaning, but clearly water was in the system.
Changing jets/needles etc: let's see what MOB /others have to say.
My guess is changing to connie parts (including slides) will help but not be exactly correct.
Air box will also help.
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanx for the help Ted. I did a complete cleanup again and so far its feeling better.
I unfortuanately have to hold on getting the jets until I can afford it. But I won't move forward until I hear whether I should go in that direction from the other guys....
Leonard
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Of all the parts I don't have, one is an air box. I have almost everything else except the frame and forks. I do have a complete (as near as I know) set of carbs that are already disassembled but the bodies are still bolted together as a unit. The guts have been pretty much removed and put in solo cups inside a box. They came with a parts bike I was given. I you need them we could easily work something out. From the sound of it, shipping would be the hardest part.
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RFH87_Connie
That would be absolutely awesome. Sourcing local is just not working. Nobody here has any particular knowledge of the Connie. Would you mind letting me know where you are and the estimate weight? Let me see what the logistics and costs are. Maybe it's a very good option instead of grasping in the dark and hoping for a workable result. I am 53 and I work for a coach company here and our wages are not much by comparison to the USA. Connie is my only transport.....
My wife of 34 years this month has endured enough sacrifice the past 6 months while I try and get Connie to work properly. My greatest fear is not having transport to work.
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Let's say 10 pounds (but it is probably less). I am in the USA, Lorton, VA 22079. Let me know the US dollar amount when you figure it out. If/when the time comes, you can PayPal me something and I can send them on the same day or at least the next. I will be out of town next week on a vacation.
We are the same age and married the same amount of time (at least by a few months). Birthday May 3rd, anniversary is July 7th.
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Probably cut from the same cloth 😎. Me 5th April 64. She 24 December 66. Our anniversary is in two weeks, 26 May.
I will start on it right away.
Leonard
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I am also looking for this cover. I can't find any here in RSA.
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Most people mount a trunk there using the existing 4 bolts and a plate or bracket so you don't need it. The first 2 pix are my mount to hold an off-brand trunk. The third picture is "Rails" you can buy or make yourself that basically do the same thing. Mine are overkill and you could park a car on it. Had fun making them though. The black panel is a large cutting board from a department store called Target. The hardware is SS the rails are from a pop-up camper awning aluminum frame.
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Side shot to show it needs to be angled back a little so the seat will come off.
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Sorry, I did not clearly describe my request.😑. I had a cover on here which came loose whilst riding. It's a plastic cover which fits over the frame I have circled. Mine also had the words CONCOURS GTR on the cover. I retraced my route looking for it but to no avail.
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Here is a picture
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Sorry, I did not clearly describe my request.😑. I had a cover on here which came loose whilst riding. It's a plastic cover which fits over the frame I have circled. Mine also had the words GTR 1000 on the cover. I retraced my route looking for it but to no avail.
I understand. I was just saying most riders don't have it on the bike because a trunk can be mounted there so it isn't really necessary (and can interfere with mounting it). Somebody may have one they would sell. You could post a request in the wanted section and might find one. Do you have the tool tray that sits on top of the battery? Most of those have been removed or lost along the way. There's also a tool kit in a pouch and a big lock and chain that was available as OEM that could sit in the tray.
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Nope. I don't have the tools tray. Also I see on Steve's video installing carbs that there is a rubber absorber wrapped over the frame under the tank. I don't have that. Was going to see how I could fabricate this.
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Polycord car tire scrap and cable ties I'm thinking might be the answer if you can't get OEM. The rubber ones on the sides of the steering neck have a habit of falling into the fairing when removing or re-installing the tank.
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Good idea. Thanx. I was thinking industrial belt material. But your idea would work well.
I glued those rubber ones at the neck down long time ago.... Got tired of them falling off. 😎
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I work for a coach and tour company. And I use to drive foreign visitor safari tours. Then got promoted. But I miss touring. So if any of you would like to enjoy a South African safari. Let me know. I can set you up or organise a tour for you. Maybe I can even be your tour leader.... Who knows if Connie is 100% stable I'll let you out with her for a day or so..... With the ZAR $ exchange as it is now. It should be very affordable....
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I think I have a tool tray that I could drop in the box also if you decide you want the carbs. No charge - it has a broke tab where it wraps around the cross frame tube but should still work fine.
Maybe, just maybe, I might have that back cover too. It might even be silver.
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Awesome......
Me and my coach a little more than a year ago
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Somebody here said they have a airbox. Maybe they can get it to you to go in the box.
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That's a possibility. Post up an ad in the wanted section. There is a guy with a screen name of Concours_to_go and I think he has a lot of parts bikes. Maybe send him a PM. Perhaps it could ship to me, then I ship the whole thing to you.
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Your second photo is the one I was interested in.
On that photo, you measure outside to outside and inside to inside.
Measurement's you show, indicate it's a 32, mm carb.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21875.0;attach=27919 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21875.0;attach=27919)
As you know, it's not a Concours carb, but it is dimensionally correct.
If you have the carbs off now, give them a good cleaning, but clearly water was in the system.
Changing jets/needles etc: let's see what MOB /others have to say.
My guess is changing to connie parts (including slides) will help but not be exactly correct.
Air box will also help.
Ride safe, Ted
I've been having issues with my tablet, so I didn't see this...
but.... I'm still trying to find what carb he really has there....
and Ted, look closely, use math, subtraction... the bore diameter is the carb size...
his picture is showing a 30mm bore.... (133.5-103.5=30.0)
sorry to be wonky, but I'm just funny like that...
soooooooo.... not having any data on a 30mm K carb... I can't say much at this point... just don't damage anything...
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Your probably right. I thought the camera was causing the numbers to look a bit smaller, and I thought he had confirmed the carb numbers? ( thought it was 103 and 133.5 or 134)
LT, please carefully measure ID to ID and tell us what you get...
Ride safe, Ted
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Hi guys. That was measured with a school ruler. Probably not very accurate. I will strip the carbs off the bike again towards the end of the month and see if I can measure it with something more reliable. For now, she is riding okay. I easily get 7000rpm. Although I only ride at about 5000 rpm to work and back. At the start of throttle she has a slight delay which feels like it's flooding, but I'm thinking this could be as a result of the carbs not being synched.
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For once, when riding in 6 I can twist the throttle without gearing down and she accelerates okay.
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I took the carbs off again and measured with a reliable measuring tape. Outside to outside I get 32mm spot on.
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You need to measure inside to inside.
Your inside to inside appears to measure 30... (not 32)
Ride safe, Ted
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Oh dear...... The inside to inside is 30mm
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A Connie has a 32 mm carb.
I.D. is 32 mm (1.260'). O.D. is approx. 38 mm (1.490")
Your Carbs;
I.D. is 30 mm . O.D. is approx. 36 mm
With this knowledge, I think rejetting with Connie Jetts might help, but doubtful it would be ideal.
MOB / Steve might be able to suggest jets that would help, but would be best to get correct size carbs and an airbox.
For now, I think you might just raise the needles by placing tiny washers under the jets) and see what happens.
Might fatten it up enough to help, and costs nothing.
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanx Ted. Seeing as this might be the last of the Connie's here in South Africa I am going to get her back to original. I'm very proud of this bike. Many guys with modern tourers stop and give her a look over. But, for now it's my only transport. I have sent a few email enquiries to cost the exercise of getting carbs and airbox to me from the US. I should have an answer by Monday. In the mean time. I will raise the slide needles and see how this gives me better effect. At the moment I can easily ride to 7000 rpm. The power is there. Although I only cruise at about 5000 which is already 20kph over our legal speed limit. It's just that little delay on pull off from traffic lights etc which is very annoying.