Proper repair would be as strong or stronger than oem.
Proper repair would be as strong or stronger than oem.
Here you go.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-10-KAWASAKI-CONCOURS-14-REAR-SUBFRAME-BACK-SUB-FRAME-OEM-/282047280152?fits=Model%3AConcours+14&hash=item41ab53f418:g:3~4AAOSwSWJXQ4Rd&vxp=mtr
I noticed that my left saddlebag was bouncing and so I gave the MCE saddlebag guard a tug and it really moved up and down alot. I took everything off on that side and I can see that the subframe bracket welds all appear to be cracked. I'm not sure what is really holding it on as the crack seems to go all the way around both ends. It could have happened on one of the tip overs I've had or perhaps it was cumulative damage from the 3 occurrences on that side. Or perhaps it was the inadvertent dual-sport ride I went on last august in New Mexico, but what ever caused it, I need to do something to fix it. Obviously it needs to be re-welded, but I also think it needs to be reinforced somehow.
I have 3 questions:
1) anybody else have this happen?,
and 2) if so how did you fix it?
3) What is the best way to reinforce this so it is stronger, but still remains the weakest link if it again receives too much force applied? That is to say, I'd like to reinforce it, but I would rather have it break again rather than twist the tube of the subframe where it is attached.
Feel free to say don't go dual-sporting on a C14, but I've learned my lesson and I won't ever do that again. (It's a long story, but I sort of got sucked in by a gravel road that I was sure was going to get better..but it didn't.) or feel free to say don't drop it anymore, but that is apparently out of my control since I've been saying that to myself since the first time.
outside of bracket, rust lines show cracks
underside of bracket
I have an extended warranty, but I don't think it should be covered even if they were willing because I'm sure it was caused by a drop (or drops) and is more like collision damage than defective welds IMO. Another question, 4) do dealers do welding or do they simply replace the subframe?
Here you go.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-10-KAWASAKI-CONCOURS-14-REAR-SUBFRAME-BACK-SUB-FRAME-OEM-/282047280152?fits=Model%3AConcours+14&hash=item41ab53f418:g:3~4AAOSwSWJXQ4Rd&vxp=mtr
It is <possible> that this is not entirely uncommon on C-14's so just for chuckles, I would carefully inspect the new sub- frame for any signs of cracking before installing it.
A bad event but good that you found it the easiest possible way, and best of luck getting it repaired.
Brian
Excellent! It's just parts replacement now. Even a caveman could do it.
THANKS! gpink...ordered!
My foot went down to hold her up but just found air until it was too far over for me to hold it up. Yes, I'm one of those C14 owners that MOB would say should have bought a smaller bike, or at least a lower one. To which I say..
[...] I will be inspecting the subframe and trying to have it reinforced as well, might as well repair the old one while/when it is off.
Excellent! It's just parts replacement now. Even a caveman could do it.
Not so fast, upon checking the Kawasaki online parts fiche there appear to be several part numbers for the subframe: 32160-0294-18R (2008 &2009); 32160-0472 (2010); 32160-0704 (substitute part on Ron Ayers for 2010-2014) Just for fun I looked up the 2015 subframe and it is quite clear that they beefed up that part, the front weld is longer as the front part of the bracket is longer ...that is the slot between welds is much shorter. It appears I'm getting one from a 2008 model. It also appears that the preload adjuster mounts differently between Gen I and Gen II. Regardless, before I put it on, it will more resemble the 2015 version. It seems that there may be more relatively unseen subtle changes than we thought for the Gen I, Gen II and 2015+ GEN 2.1 versions of the C14.
Again, my suggestion would be to buy another sub- frame and inspect it carefully and then just use it as stock. If you really feel you must reinforce the weldment, I would suggest putting small plates over the weld beads so that the new welds do not touch the original welds at all.
I am not faulting your thinking here Marty, just saying that I think this is one of those situations where making it 'better' will make it worse.