Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: nico on August 08, 2012, 08:01:06 PM
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Does this look right? As was written in the instructions, I verified that about 5/8" worth of threaded rod protruded from the opening, but as you can see, after fully tightening the nut, there's still about 1/4" from the outer surface of the nut to the end of the rod.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j2n8aJmIi-Q/UCMWEk-2TUI/AAAAAAAAa5g/9mbgpLWm_Es/s800/DSC01538.JPG)
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You have to make sure the bolt head (on the right side bars) is fully seated per instructions... The cavity on the right side bar is meant to hold the bolt from turning when you tighten the nut. As stated in the instructions try and rotate the bolt. I used a 3/8" ratchet extension and tapped the bolt with it until it gets fully seated. Once tightened you should only have a couple of threads showing.
I hope this helps.
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Also, the addition of the washer at that location (which you appear to have installed on yours) will also reduce the distance the step nut grabs the rod.
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I wondered about that too, one of my buddies commented on it as well, works as designed I believe.
And you thought only software had known flaws.
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Anyone else with more threads showing?
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That is about how mine looks give or take a thread.
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Anyone else with more threads showing?
I'll let you know after tomorrow morn.
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Well, as luck would have it, I came across another Connie with Canyon Cages in a parking lot. I went over to it and inspected the nut, and it looked identical to mine. So we're either both wrong or we're both right.
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This is how it should look if done properly (keep in mind this photo was taken without the washer):
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/rnvanquish/CONCOURS1400-410012.jpg)
When putting that long bolt through the bike, you need to twist it so it sits entirely into its saddle. I'm not really sure how else to describe it. Essentially you put the bolt all the way in, then twist it, and it should go in another half inch or so.
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Well, I will try and keep this brief. I decided to take the nut off and try to rotate the bolt, did not happen. You guessed it, the right cage had it binding due to the angle. That left me with two options, remove the tupperware or loosen the bolts through the vents. I was fortunate to use a swivel and get them loose enough to allow the bolt to be pushed through. I rotated the bolt and pushed again and same threads showing. Inside the right canyon is a lip that stops the head of the bolt from going through. (wish it was a larger lip because only the points on the bolt head are keeping it from going through, looks like an exact size washer would help but this would allow even less threads to be engaged on the left side) I measured that depth minus the head thickness and the bolt is inserted as far as possible and the canyon is in the hole pressing up against the bike. I deducted the bolt is seated as far as it will go. As stated the hex shape on the shoulder's bolt keeps it from spinning when tightening so that verifies it is properly installed. I torqued it to 44 ft/lb and my bike looks just like the one posted in the initial part of the thread. If anyone has less threads showing I am guessing they are using more than 44 ft/lb. I can tighten it more but do not want to risk any problems. I look forward to other replies with much interest. I spoke to Ryan who was helpful. I suggested using a head like the factory bolt to allow turning while in the channel of the canyon cage. Also it appears that the nuts are different between Ryan's photo and ours posted above.
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Thanks for taking the time do check all that out and posting the pics Alpha. I'll be doing the same thing this morning.
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Hope when mine ships out they have gone to a 10mm longer bolt.
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Thanks for taking the time do check all that out and posting the pics Alpha. I'll be doing the same thing this morning.
Good deal...looking forward to your results.
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I don't think you will have any problem unless you actually need to use the cage for what it was designed for. i think the bolt will snap the first time it has any stress. It sure looks like the bolt is too short. A proper bolted connection should have about three threads showing when torqued down. Believe me I didn't get to be a certified jake-leg class 3 mokanic without doing this to many bolts and have them brake.
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er, break. :-[
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I almost (ugly story) put mine on but had to stop because they will not fit with a Rostra CC actuator mounted under the left fairing. But I did get the bars themselves installed and the threaded shaft ended up similar to yours although maybe another turn or turn and a half deeper. Then again, I did not install the washer so that might make a very small difference.
The spacer that goes on the left hand side of the engine mounting bolt is not symmetrical, and the counter bored side has to face out to get the nut on the stud as far as possible.
While the threads do not come all the way out to the end of the nut, it is not a conventional nut and has a long, threaded shoulder that also engages the bolt. So it is not imperative that the stud reach all the way through the nut in this case because the nut is so much longer than a conventional flat nut.
As far as the stud being all the way into the frame, if it hangs up on the hex it will be quite short and I do not think you could even start the nut on the other end. So the hex must be timed correctly to even assemble everything I believe.
Brian
Well, I will try and keep this brief. I decided to take the nut off and try to rotate the bolt, did not happen. You guessed it, the right cage had it binding due to the angle. That left me with two options, remove the tupperware or loosen the bolts through the vents. I was fortunate to use a swivel and get them loose enough to allow the bolt to be pushed through. I rotated the bolt and pushed again and same threads showing. Inside the right canyon is a lip that stops the head of the bolt from going through. (wish it was a larger lip because only the points on the bolt head are keeping it from going through, looks like an exact size washer would help but this would allow even less threads to be engaged on the left side) I measured that depth minus the head thickness and the bolt is inserted as far as possible and the canyon is in the hole pressing up against the bike. I deducted the bolt is seated as far as it will go. As stated the hex shape on the shoulder's bolt keeps it from spinning when tightening so that verifies it is properly installed. I torqued it to 44 ft/lb and my bike looks just like the one posted in the initial part of the thread. If anyone has less threads showing I am guessing they are using more than 44 ft/lb. I can tighten it more but do not want to risk any problems. I look forward to other replies with much interest. I spoke to Ryan who was helpful. I suggested using a head like the factory bolt to allow turning while in the channel of the canyon cage. Also it appears that the nuts are different between Ryan's photo and ours posted above.
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I checked and rechecked the orientation of the spacer and now I am wondering. I know there are enough threads holding it considering the length of the nut. I loosened the nut a few times and used a screwdriver to assist with getting the shoulder on the nut to countersink in the bore, still I dunno.
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I almost (ugly story) put mine on but had to stop because they will not fit with a Rostra CC actuator mounted under the left fairing. But I did get the bars themselves installed and the threaded shaft ended up similar to yours although maybe another turn or turn and a half deeper. Then again, I did not install the washer so that might make a very small difference.
The spacer that goes on the left hand side of the engine mounting bolt is not symmetrical, and the counter bored side has to face out to get the nut on the stud as far as possible.
While the threads do not come all the way out to the end of the nut, it is not a conventional nut and has a long, threaded shoulder that also engages the bolt. So it is not imperative that the stud reach all the way through the nut in this case because the nut is so much longer than a conventional flat nut.
As far as the stud being all the way into the frame, if it hangs up on the hex it will be quite short and I do not think you could even start the nut on the other end. So the hex must be timed correctly to even assemble everything I believe.
Brian
What Brian said above. There's plenty of threads making contact between the step nut and the treaded rod. I did use the washer for my install.
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=360)