Helibar ST install help

[Xelvic]

They will be here tomorrow and I've read as much as I can to prepare for the installation. So here is my question and believe me I've searched. I got the replacement lines instead of the extensions for the brakes and clutch. Does anyone have any tips to help me out changing these over? Do I have to take all the oil out of the clutch in order to change the line. I've bleed them before using the little tube up by the handle bars and just pulling fluid through. Can I do the same after I put the new line on and just pull new fluid into it? Also, how do I get the old fluid out of the line before I take them off. Thanks guys for any help you can give me.

[Broz]

Xelvic,
The instructions are available on Helibars web site. I don't own any but I'm thinking about getting a set. Why did you buy new lines?  From their instructions it looks pretty straight forward. I think the extensions they include look like the way to go.

Let us know how the install goes.

Broz

[Rhino]

I have a 2010 abs and also got the replacement lines. I drained the front brake lines but forgot to drain the clutch. Luckily I had lots of rags handy and didn't get much on stuff and cleaned it immediately. Very little actually leaks out even at the reservoir with the line off. I used a MityVac to bleed afterward and used this as an opportunity to replace all the fluid. No problem on the front brakes but it took awhile to bleed the clutch. I couldn't just suck it out like I could on the brakes. I had to manipulate the clutch handle. I just kept at it and eventually got all the old fluid to drain and new fluid in without air.

[Xelvic]

Xelvic,
The instructions are available on Helibars web site. I don't own any but I'm thinking about getting a set. Why did you buy new lines?  From their instructions it looks pretty straight forward. I think the extensions they include look like the way to go.

Let us know how the install goes.

Broz

I got the new lines because they sold them as an option and from what I hear look a lot better. I've read the instruction on the web but they don't say anything about bleeding the lines. They tell you how to take the lines off and on but don't say anything about the oil in them.

[Xelvic]

I have a 2010 abs and also got the replacement lines. I drained the front brake lines but forgot to drain the clutch. Luckily I had lots of rags handy and didn't get much on stuff and cleaned it immediately. Very little actually leaks out even at the reservoir with the line off. I used a MityVac to bleed afterward and used this as an opportunity to replace all the fluid. No problem on the front brakes but it took awhile to bleed the clutch. I couldn't just suck it out like I could on the brakes. I had to manipulate the clutch handle. I just kept at it and eventually got all the old fluid to drain and new fluid in without air.

Thanks, I need all the help I can get. How hard was it to get the lines off? Also...can I get this MityVac at a local automotive store... and what does it do?

[The Pope]

http://www.mityvac.com/

[VirginiaJim]

Protect the heck out of any painted or plastic surface.  If you think you've protected the surfaces enough, then protect more.  Following the directions that come with it you will be removing the banjo connection at each master cylinder and attaching the extended lines.  The brakes weren't too bad to bleed but the clutch was a PITA.  I had to alternately bleed the master clutch cylinder and the bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder in order to get a firm clutch lever.

[philipintexas]

I've changed hoses on two bikes and bleeding on this bike is a PITA. It is better with a vacuum but it just doesn't bleed like most systems. I used a pump from Harbor Freight, it has metal construction and costs around $25. Good advice about protecting paint. Keep a very wet towel handy for spills, water will dilute the brake fluid. The clutch line is an amazingly convoluted contraption.

[Rhino]

Protect the heck out of any painted or plastic surface.  If you think you've protected the surfaces enough, then protect more.  Following the directions that come with it you will be removing the banjo connection at each master cylinder and attaching the extended lines.  The brakes weren't too bad to bleed but the clutch was a PITA.  I had to alternately bleed the master clutch cylinder and the bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder in order to get a firm clutch lever.

+1 Exactly my experience as well.

[Rhino]

Thanks, I need all the help I can get. How hard was it to get the lines off? Also...can I get this MityVac at a local automotive store... and what does it do?

Yes you can get it at O'Reilly's and NAPA. It's just a small hand operated suction pump to suck out the fluid from the slave end. Works very well on the brakes but not so much on the clutch. Not sure why. In fact I bought the MityVac because after I changed the clutch in my Valkyrie I couldn't bleed that clutch with speed bleeders. The MityVac work fantastic on that clutch.

[556ALPHA]

did you get them installed?