Mounting Denali lights

[shredran]

Many have tried to mount lights down low on the front reflector brackets and had metal fatigue crack them. I had hoped that mounting to the more forward fender bolts would be adequate, but not for me. It took longer but the bracket behind the fender broke and then the weight all went to the fender plastic and broke that as well. First the left side (which I repaired) and now the right side.
So I ordered a set of brackets from Twisted Throttle, and they seem quite stout. Made of powder coated steel which is 1/4 inch thick, I think they should hold up. I'll report back here after the install (probably not until Jan '18).

For those still using fender mounts, I suggest perhaps filling the hole in the middle of the bracket with some epoxy putty. That may dampen vibrations and delay or prevent metal fatigue. Perhaps some engineering types can speculate on the chance of success in this area or offer other suggestions? It is made of aluminum,  perhaps fabricating a new one out of steel would be better?
Anyway, I also had Hyper-Whites (white LEDS) on top of my Denali D1 lights so that added a little extra weight to add to my problem. Although I suspect that their extra aerodynamic load to the mount far exceeded their additional weight effect as they don't weigh that much compared to the light below them.

as yet to be mounted brackets from Twisted Throttle

Hey did you end up mounting these yet? I’m considering buying a set for my 09’ connie And would love to hear how u like them

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Hey did you end up mounting these yet? I’m considering buying a set for my 09’ connie And would love to hear how u like them

Yes I did mount them and I do like them! I've only put about 2000 miles on them but they installed easily and hold the lights just fine.
Sorry for the delay, since my previous mount took out the plastic boss where the fender mounts in the front, I had to do a little sculpting
work with epoxy putty and SS washers. If it wasn't for that I would have got this accomplished quicker.

[shredran]

Looks great! Now, out of curiosity, how big is the hole on the mounts that the bolt goes through to hold your lights? I'd be buying a set of lights on amazon far cheaper than denali's, but hope they fit! I've used the kind im buying on other bikes and like them, just want to be sure. And also, do you have exact instructions for how to wife the aux lights? I know how to build connectors, etc., but need the specs and location of the input..my understanding is that it's up by the headlight for the front connector, and another under the seat...just curious if you have the quick instructions.

Thanks!

Connor

[just gone]

Looks great! Now, out of curiosity, how big is the hole on the mounts that the bolt goes through to hold your lights?

Well I didn't measure the hole. I would have to go out and disassemble mine to measure it for you, and contrary to rumors being spread by B.D.F., I'm just not that nice a guy.
The bolt that is supplied for the hole you are asking about is M8X20 and I recall it going right in and not being too sloppy. Shouldn't be a problem either drill it bigger or get sleeve
for yours if the hole is too large.

And also, do you have exact instructions for how to wife the aux lights? I know how to build connectors, etc., but need the specs and location of the input..my understanding is that it's up by the headlight for the front connector, and another under the seat...just curious if you have the quick instructions.

I don't have a wiring diagram for you. Mine came with a switch and I had already installed a separate wire from the back where I have a Fuzebox hooked directly to the battery. My wiring got a little more complicated when I realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam.
 Many use the Auxillary leads in the black boot under the front left top side cover for theirs.  Here are some of Fred's pics for the front and rear acc leads, these are all on the same circuit as the dash acc socket, same fuse does them all.

[shredran]

No worries! I appreciate the update and response. I'll just need the connectors, it looks like. Another instruction set I saw said, "you will need a pair (one male, one female) bullet connectors of 4mm or 5/32" size to tap into those connectors. " I'll make it happen. I'm gonna put some lights on that will be switched, but no dimming technology. Ppl will just have to put up with my brightness! Ha!

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I'll make it happen. I'm gonna put some lights on that will be switched, but no dimming technology. Ppl will just have to put up with my brightness! Ha!

...and by the bye..have you seen this post on the other forum? Could save you some $ if you have any fabrication skills, similar and yet simpler design using steel instead of aluminum. (you'll have to log in over there to see the photos)

[shredran]

I hadn't seen those, but boy do they look like a much more cost effective option!!! Next step: Talk him into making me some. Thanks for sharing that man!

[mikeyw64]

It must be too early in the morning for me but my brain can't work out how you have this wired up using a diode.

I don't have a wiring diagram for you. Mine came with a switch and I had already installed a separate wire from the back where I have a Fuzebox hooked directly to the battery. My wiring got a little more complicated when I realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam.

[just gone]

It must be too early in the morning for me but my brain can't work out how you have this wired up using a diode.

Well I could just blurt it out, however just to keep us on our toes mentally I'll give you clues. (or I might have forgotten?)
Anyway having the lights hooked up to two circuits (the switch, and the high beam circuit) a way needed to be devised so that when I turned on the switch that the high beams didn't come on with the Denalis. If I were to do it over I'd skip the switch altogether, however since I went with it first I just didn't feel like undoing it. There might have been a way to do it without the diode, but it worked and was simple enough so I stopped thinking about it

I used a diode somewhere else IIRC when I went to the electronic flasher I'd get some weird flashing going on with the KIPASS flash or something and the diode cured it.
I'll have to get back to you on that after a search here. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118

All the above in this post assumes that "diode" means the same thing on both sides of the Atlantic. If it doesn't then it went right over my head. 

[mikeyw64]

Well I could just blurt it out, however just to keep us on our toes mentally I'll give you clues. (or I might have forgotten?)
Anyway having the lights hooked up to two circuits (the switch, and the high beam circuit) a way needed to be devised so that when I turned on the switch that the high beams didn't come on with the Denalis. If I were to do it over I'd skip the switch altogether, however since I went with it first I just didn't feel like undoing it. There might have been a way to do it without the diode, but it worked and was simple enough so I stopped thinking about it

I used a diode somewhere else IIRC when I went to the electronic flasher I'd get some weird flashing going on with the KIPASS flash or something and the diode cured it.
I'll have to get back to you on that after a search here. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118

All the above in this post assumes that "diode" means the same thing on both sides of the Atlantic. If it doesn't then it went right over my head. 

I get  how you could wire itup using diode so that turning on the Denalis  via the separate switch doesn't activate high beam but flicking high beam on will fire up the Denalis and then turn them off again.

What I don't get is how a diode will allow you to turn off the Denalis if they have been turned on by the switch when you then switch the high beam off.

Or don't they ?

In that case you're back where you started after a fashion

realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam

[just gone]

I get  how you could wire itup using diode so that turning on the Denalis  via the separate switch doesn't activate high beam but flicking high beam on will fire up the Denalis and then turn them off again.

What I don't get is how a diode will allow you to turn off the Denalis if they have been turned on by the switch when you then switch the high beam off.

Or don't they ?

In that case you're back where you started after a fashion

You are correct, if the switch is on they will not shut off when the high beams are dimmed. I rarely use the switch any more, just the high beam switch to turn them on. I have Hyper White LEDs (a bunch of white LEDs, no reflector) mounted just above the Denalis that come on for conspicuousness during low beam operation. I think that's clear..right?

[mikeyw64]

You are correct, if the switch is on they will not shut off when the high beams are dimmed. I rarely use the switch any more, just the high beam switch to turn them on. I have Hyper White LEDs (a bunch of white LEDs, no reflector) mounted just above the Denalis that come on for conspicuousness during low beam operation. I think that's clear..right?

yarp

[shredran]

I owe you a thank you! The guy who made the custom brackets is making me some .

Thanks again

[just gone]

I owe you a thank you! The guy who made the custom brackets is making me some .

Thanks again

Great! I hope those work well for you.