Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: jdhreiss on January 04, 2014, 02:24:33 PM
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I had my 2008 ABS in for it's first valve adjustment at 112,000 miles, and was told that the valves were still in spec. The cam chain was replaced, but everything else was ok. I can only attribute this to using Castrol full synthetic oil every 5k with NAPA Gold (Wix) oil filters after the initial 3k break in. I ride year round, in the Pacific Northwest with it's wet winters. I was going to consider a new one, but I'm going for 200k first!
Joe R.
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Excellent! What made them replace the cam chain?
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Wow- congrats!
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Excellent! What made them replace the cam chain?
The way mine clanks and grinds every time I crank the bike I bet its going to need a replacement too (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/lol.gif)
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:finger_fing11: :chugbeer:
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Great, glad to hear it.
Did they replace the cam chain tensioner as well as the chain? And as Jim already asked, was the cam chain stretched too far?
Brian
I had my 2008 ABS in for it's first valve adjustment at 112,000 miles, and was told that the valves were still in spec. The cam chain was replaced, but everything else was ok. I can only attribute this to using Castrol full synthetic oil every 5k with NAPA Gold (Wix) oil filters after the initial 3k break in. I ride year round, in the Pacific Northwest with it's wet winters. I was going to consider a new one, but I'm going for 200k first!
Joe R.
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Wow! Glad to hear that your C14 has run so well.
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Glad to hear it has run so well w/o spending $700.+ and leaving your bike for a week with some dork who claims to have checked the lifters. My cam chain is also really noisy on all starts and is my only complaint with the bike so far- is that why they replaced yours?
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The C-14 start up rattle is caused by the cam chain tensioner and is normal on this bike. There is a brief description of what is happening here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14243.msg174886#msg174886 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14243.msg174886#msg174886)
Brian
Glad to hear it has run so well w/o spending $700.+ and leaving your bike for a week with some dork who claims to have checked the lifters. My cam chain is also really noisy on all starts and is my only complaint with the bike so far- is that why they replaced yours?
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Great to know about the noise, I though the starter was hanging up.
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Nope. Totally normal.
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I believe it is actually the cam chain sliding against the inside of the engine block when the bike is tilted to the left (on the sidestand) and the oil pressure has not yet extended the hydraulic portion of the cam chain tensioner. I do know that a mechanical cam chain tensioner eliminates the noise altogether.
Brian
Great to know about the noise, I though the starter was hanging up.
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The cam chain was always noisy on start-up, for 5-10 seconds or so. But it began not to fully quiet down as time went on. The mechanic said the chains are good for about 80k. Since they were in there, they recommended the chain, tensioner and related be replaced. Since I've had the bike I've replaced 10 front tires, 10 rear tires, 3 sets of front brake pads, 4 sets of rears, both front rotors (warranty), 3 sets of spark plugs, 1 right torque arm bearing and added a K&N a/f, Cee Bailey windshield, Baker deflectors over the mirrors and heated grips. The muffler has been shortened 4" and the baffles punched out to 1.25". 39 mpg when riding alone, 43 mpg w/friends! Can't wait for it to be free from the clutches of the shop!
Joe
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Looks like a very efficient use of rear tyres. 11 000 miles a piece? I usually manage half of that :P
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After you pointed that out- I have to check my notes again. I must have missed some. I've toasted a rear Metzler M-5 I bought out on the road in 4k miles. As my Garmin sez...... RECALCULATING!
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Martin_14
I have it now.
Front tires: Rear tires:
BattleAx 021 3 1
BattleAx 014 1 1
Dunlop Sportmax 1 1
Dunlop Qualifiers 1 1
Dunlop Roadsmart 2 2
Pirelli Diablo 1 1
Pilot Road 2 2 4
Metzler M5 0 1
Unknown 1 1
Total 12 (9333 avg) 13 (8615 avg) PR2 avg 12,333 mi ea
Found them in my scribbling! I bought the dunlops and pirelli's @ Cycle Gear for 200$ a set
Joe
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Amazing! What a great milestone. Makes the rest of us hope for the same success
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I had a feeling that valve checks were overrated on that engine, matter of fact I think they may be overrated on the majority.
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Congrats on the dependability of your 2008.
My 2010 is at 45,000 and no valve check done or planned. I think that they are overrated. My 2010 feels better than my 2011. Michelin PR2s are still my favorite.
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I've been told by bike mechanics at 2 dealerships that the plug replacement and valve clearance intervals are governed by emissions regs, not wear and tear. I have checked a set of plugs with 60k on them. I put them in @ .032" and took them out @ .035"! My bud owns a Suzuki road race team and he said use the synthetics and have the valve clearances checked when the mpg goes away or the engine runs soft..... Can a C14 run soft??? A couple of months ago I ran a 0-90 test videoed at 7 flat at the top of 2nd and that was with over 100k on it with the loud cam chain. Gotta love those Kawi motors!
Joe
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Congrats Joe, that's awesome!
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These threads make me want to keep my Connie indefinitely. Now that I'll be commuting 15-20k miles a year starting this month, it seems to be the best bike for the job.
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My first valve check was at 25000 on my 08 and one shim was replaced. The second was at 53000 and 8 shims were needed. I think on my bike the valves were set too tight at the factory to begin with. None of them moved very much it seems, just too close to start with. I don't expect any additional changes for quite awhile.
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It does make me wonder how well these were checked in the factory.
I found all 16 out of or at the edge of tolerance in my first valve lash check at 25K -- some out by as much as .003. The procedure is very involved and not at all similar to valve adjustments on other bikes I have owned.
And, as a warning to those yet to do this procedures, it really really pays to double-check all the measurements. After replacing shims and re-installing the cams I still managed to miss a few upon re-measuring. Don't believe the measurements stamped on the shims! Use a micrometer to measure both the shims and the feeler gauges to ensure consistent measurements on your shim map.
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It does make me wonder how well these were checked in the factory.
My thoughts as well. Checking my 08 at 25Kmi showing most of the exhaust's to be slightly tight and just outside tolerance. Same with the intakes but with 1 intake being more than .002" tighter than the tolerance. Probably a good idea to do the maintenance some time early on and set them loose. Then maybe never again!? based on Joe's experience.
Pete
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My thoughts as well. Checking my 08 at 25Kmi showing most of the exhaust's to be slightly tight and just outside tolerance. Same with the intakes but with 1 intake being more than .002" tighter than the tolerance. Probably a good idea to do the maintenance some time early on and set them loose. Then maybe never again!? based on Joe's experience.
Pete
That has been my experience. I had a few tight at 22,000 miles and then 8 more tight at 55,000 miles. At that point I set them all to the loose side of spec and have not yet checked again. Now at 115,000.
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Just in the process of adjusting valves (my first DIY attempt) at roughly 45,000 miles (62,100km).
All intake valves were within spec, all exhaust are tight (a few at .003 off).
Geez, there are a lot of parts to re and re!!! Pictures help!
Oh, here's a tip: if you lose one of the valve cover bolt washers when removing the valve cover
and don't find it inside the valve train area (whew!), look in the spark plug wells.......(grab your
girl friend's makeup compact for the mirror and return it clean.......).
Don't ask how I managed to get that sucker off of the #2 spark plug (it's a real cozy fit!). Too small
an opening for my magnet but some creative thinking and a few swear words, and voila!
Just make sure you remove the washers first (they stick) from the valve cover before removing it.
Lesson learned!!!!
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These threads make me want to keep my Connie indefinitely. Now that I'll be commuting 15-20k miles a year starting this month, it seems to be the best bike for the job.
+1
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Has anyone read the most recent Tech Q&A section in Rider Magazine related to the valve check on the C-14? Page 63. A question came from a new owner inquirering about the valve adjustment intervals. The response ended as follows: "I know if I owned a 1400 Concours, after the initial inspection I'd seriously pretend it had hydraulic lifters." I didnt find a link to post. Basically says the job is difficult and a lot can go wrong. I had a shop perform my initial check at 21K.
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Has anyone ever had a failure due to lack of adjustment?
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Has anyone read the most recent Tech Q&A section in Rider Magazine related to the valve check on the C-14? Page 63. A question came from a new owner inquirering about the valve adjustment intervals. The response ended as follows: "I know if I owned a 1400 Concours, after the initial inspection I'd seriously pretend it had hydraulic lifters." I didnt find a link to post. Basically says the job is difficult and a lot can go wrong. I had a shop perform my initial check at 21K.
I just read the article in Rider and based on it I have decided to let my subscription lapse. I have done 2 successful valve adjustments on my 08 and I have no training and am by no means a proficient mechanic. I am astounded that a magazine would publish a tech article by such a total incompetent. Maybe we should take up a collection and buy the poor fool a copy of Fred's videos :rotflmao:
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Has anyone ever had a failure due to lack of adjustment?
Not that we've heard of here..
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Has anyone ever had a failure due to lack of adjustment?
I have been reading this forum for almost four years and have never seen a post even implying that they have had any issues from lack of checking/setting the valve lash. Of course we are only a small portion of owners.
Yet I see the vast majority of postings saying that when checked they are either all perfect or needing only very slight adjustment (probably within safety).
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I have been reading this forum for almost four years and have never seen a post even implying that they have had any issues from lack of checking/setting the valve lash. Of course we are only a small portion of owners.
Yet I see the vast majority of postings saying that when checked they are either all perfect or needing only very slight adjustment (probably within safety).
I have been reading the forum for more than 6 years and I can't recall ever hearing about a valve problem or any kind of engine failure.
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Not that we've heard of here..
there was one pre "site crash" that was from extreme carbon ridge/fouling on piston & cylinders, that when it was repaired the service people didn't go thru the analysis well, and disassembled the motor without checking/recording the clearances. It was rebuilt by Kaw under warranty. Pretty much could have been attributed to intakes hanging open.
Can't prove it now, but that O/P at the time tended to agree with my diagnosis when he described the carbon fouled areas.