I did it this way

I did it this way

Certainly works, but way, way too dim for me.

Another update!

The connection to one of my load resistors was failing/intermittent.  This was causing random/annoying "hyper blinking" on my right turn signal.  Rather than take apart the whole thing, I decided to replace the stock flash controller with a new, solid-state controller instead.  These new controllers don't care about the load or wattage, so they will eliminate the need for the load resistors completely.

It is discussed here in this other thread:  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17998.msg242704

So if you plan on doing something similar (converting to running lights) I highly recommend using the inexpensive new flasher and skip the load resistors.

Now, if someday I can find LED bulbs that fit, are as bright or brighter than incandescent, and disperse light well, I will convert to LED, too.  That will solve the potential heat issues and also reduce overall power (once I remove the load resistors, it would save even more).  Been waiting a long time.  The good news is that the bulb heat has still not been a problem, even after using the mod for 4 years

And yet another update!

I finally found and installed decent LED bulbs that are significantly brighter than the incandecents and also have an excellent light distribution.  It was a lot of work installing the fronts and documenting it, but it allowed me to also finally remove the old load resistors that are not needed (since I installed the solid-state flasher unit).

Read about it starting here:  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg266009#msg266009

Here is a link to another thread with a different way of accomplishing something similar, but with white running lights that switch to yellow for turning.  Note my reply in it to compare the two methods (the one in this thread vs. the switchback method).

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22172

Now how funny is that i post my set up this week also.
As stated in my post , i have been making Switchback light for other bikes for years.
I stated Using Auto Illumination, but stopped about 7 years ago, i had made a $600 purchase, of bulbs, and i got 8 bad bulbs.
And had to fight to get new defective product replaced!
Im using the same method i started with back in 2005, i change the sockets to an 1157 socket, and have used several different flashers over the years.
Here is my current post, http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22217.0

One thing i strived for on all my kits is that they are 100 percent Plug and Play, all you need to do cut some wire ties!

Now how funny is that i post my set up this week also.

It is a funny coincidence.

As stated in my post , i have been making Switchback light for other bikes for years.
I stated Using Auto Illumination, but stopped about 7 years ago, i had made a $600 purchase, of bulbs, and i got 8 bad bulbs.

Unfortunately, one of my 4 super-high-brightness LED bulbs I am using is already failing (it is flickering).  I have a spare and it is covered under warranty, but I haven't had the time/energy/motivation to swap it out yet (since it is a front bulb, which is a PITA).  Otherwise, I love the bulbs I bought (first TRULY bright bulbs I have seen, and excellent light distribution and color).

One thing i strived for on all my kits is that they are 100 percent Plug and Play, all you need to do cut some wire ties!

Will be a lot less work than my method, for sure.  Of course, my method is guaranteed legal

Unfortunately, one of my 4 super-high-brightness LED bulbs I am using is already failing (it is flickering).  I have a spare and it is covered under warranty, but I haven't had the time/energy/motivation to swap it out yet (since it is a front bulb, which is a PITA).  Otherwise, I love the bulbs I bought (first TRULY bright bulbs I have seen, and excellent light distribution and color).

Well, over the years I have had multiple front 1156PY (BAU15S/PY21W/7507) LED bulb failures.  The problem is most likely heat.  Although such bulbs typically pull only 5W, they all seem to be designed as turn signal bulbs- meaning they will only be used for a short time, and then only "on" about half the time (due to blinking).  My mod (which is EXCELLENT for safety) has the bulbs on all the time as running lights, blinking OFF when used as turn signals.  So the heat builds up in the tiny space and ends up damaging something- perhaps the LED's themselves, but it seems more likely the regulator inside them that steps the voltage down.

The results in a bulb that works great for a year or something, then random occasional flickering of one or more of the LED elements.   In subsequent months, this will get worse and result in more and more flickering and/or some segments going permanently dim or just off completely.

Even with years of advancement, and tons of searching, it seems nothing has changed much in the bulb designs.  Some now even say on them "not to be used as running lights", clearly admitting they cannot tolerate being lit all the time.  Those bulbs that do have reasonable heat management seem to only be those with built-in load resistors, which defeats the whole point.  Those will intentionally suck 20+ watts to be compatible with systems that don't already have an external load resistor or upgraded, electronic turn signal controller/relay.

So it looks like I am resigned to just having to replace them every year or two.  Still worth it for the safety.  I have no other bulbs right now, and both the front ones are freaking out, so in a few hours, I will be swapping the fronts to the rears (the rears are the same model, but are rarely "on", so they should work OK up front for a while).  And the front ones have enough light for just blinking on the rear, plus I have the Admore bar with additional turn signal indication in the rear.  Then I will just order some bulbs on Amazon for spares based on looks, since nobody will have any data about using them as running lights.  JDM Astar doesn't seem to make non-load-resistor LED 1156PY anymore.

Since the forum lost tons of photos, I will re-post a few of the project photos yet again (not allowed to modify old posts now, so I can't attach them to the correct postings).  Note I abandoned HID for LED headlights- unrelated to this thread but they are mentioned in the photos.

And the switch to a solid-state flasher which works with LED bulbs and without any load resistors.  Disassembly instructions...

New part and before/after install.  Flasher in use now for 7 years without any issue (knock on wood).

Good stuff, sir. I don’t know why I didn’t think about it, but this reminded me to add my lighting to my maintenance log. I’ve got 14 months and about 14k miles on them and they’re still going strong. I hope my front switchbacks last.

Good stuff, sir. I don’t know why I didn’t think about it, but this reminded me to add my lighting to my maintenance log. I’ve got 14 months and about 14k miles on them and they’re still going strong. I hope my front switchbacks last.

My front running lights are so bright that at night I can easily tell when they start flickering or not working correctly, while sitting on the bike.  Perhaps your switchback ones are designed properly to run all the time.  But probably light not as brightly due to that.  But I want yellow, not white.  And so I will have to play the bulb game.  I know this concept works, because I noticed an immediate difference in the way traffic around be behaves- they can see me where before they could not.  Not always, of course, but it helps, not only from the front, but also the sides.  Of course, the most important thing is to ALWAYS drive as if nobody can see you, and make sure not to dwell in blind spots.

So it looks like I am resigned to just having to replace them every year or two.  Still worth it for the safety.  I have no other bulbs right now, and both the front ones are freaking out, so in a few hours, I will be swapping the fronts to the rears (the rears are the same model, but are rarely "on", so they should work OK up front for a while).  And the front ones have enough light for just blinking on the rear,

Just to remind everyone- you can replace the front turn signal bulbs by removing the two bolts above the Kawasaki logo and the two top screws inside the wheel well, then carefully pry open the panel and reach in.  Helps to have smaller hands, it is tight.  Beats removing EVERYTHING by a lot.

Anyway, my plan mostly worked.  Left front swapped with left back, good.  Right front was horrible so I put one of my older, lesser damaged bulbs in the right rear and moved the right rear to right front.  Unfortunately, the front right is already flickering a bit.  So I guess both rear ones were not in as great a condition as I had hoped.  Oh well, it is a hell of a lot better than before.

Depending on how the light is manufactured, we may be able to pull the light apart and find the point of failure. Possibly remove or change the component that causes the baking before install.