Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: pasini510 on January 08, 2012, 05:23:00 PM
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Hi,
I used to use Rotella Synthetic in my Super Hawk and worked great . I found some Mobile 1 5 w-40 Turbo Diesel oil and changed it right before storage.
Think this is OK ? Or should I dump it before I ride this spring ???
It says rated API,SM,SL/SJ for gasoline engines.
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It's been a day or two without any discussion on oil. I guess it's time. :popcorn:
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It's fresh, why not use it? Don't overthink these things......
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Low post count. Starts oil thread. Sounds like a troll.
OTOH, this could just as easily be a legit thread, so why not?
As for storage, IMHO, the cheapest oil is fine. I would have no qualms using straight-weight dino oil for storage, but I would drain it before firing the bike up in the spring.
The significant difference between Rotella (T and T6) and other diesel oils is the JASO MA certification. I am not aware of any other diesel engine oil carrying the JASO MA cert.
My practice:
API certs per the manual or newer
JASO MA cert
Weight range per the manual
Oil filter change every oil change
Stay close to recommended mileage intervals - not over, not much under
I have started to add about 1 oz ZDDP/cam lube to the oil
No "energy conserving" oils
Since the weather where I live is amenable to year-round riding, I do not have to deal with the storage issue. I doubt that you would have an issue with the Mobile 1 5 w-40 Turbo Diesel oil if you run it 3k or less and then switch back to a "proper" oil, but I would not run it in my bike.
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Sure........go for it. :stirpot:
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Rotella T6 Flavor and KiPass, the winning combo! ;D
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Rotella T6.
I was using Mobil 1 15-50 for many years but the last few have been Rotella.
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Hi,
I used to use Rotella Synthetic in my Super Hawk and worked great . I found some Mobile 1 5 w-40 Turbo Diesel oil and changed it right before storage.
Think this is OK ? Or should I dump it before I ride this spring ???
It says rated API,SM,SL/SJ for gasoline engines.
No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.
Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil.
Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
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<snip>
Sounds like somebody has a really bad case of cabin fever.
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No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.
Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil.
Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
:o
Time for some decaf man.
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:o
Time for some decaf man.
Decaf?!! :yikes:
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Decaf?!! :yikes:
I know, I know. I feel the same way.
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No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.
Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil.
Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
This should be removed before someone actually tries it. ::)
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Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding. This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world. Nothing to see here, go on about your business.
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Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding. This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world. Nothing to see here, go on about your business.
:rotflmao:
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Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding. This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world. Nothing to see here, go on about your business.
Dammit Jim! Now you made me miscount on the number of revolutions I was up to. I filled her with kerosene and was up to about 59 revs. Now I have to start all over.
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Why don't you pick me up a couple of packs of muffler bearings while you're at it. :)
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Why don't you pick me up a couple of packs of muffler bearings while you're at it. :)
Jim is there a specific brand you recommend? I'm heading up to the parts store soon! I'm confused with this kerosene method. Should I use synthetic, or dino? Is in absolutely necessary to rotate the air in the tires too? I've tried to cycle the air, but I'm not sure I'm getting it all out, but I'm pretty sure I get it all in....
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Echlin...they make the best.
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C'mon guys play nice. As far as I can tell he is for real (not a Troll). Perhaps he just wanted to ask a question just to start up a conversation and being new to this board doesn't know the taboo subjects yet (Oil and filters are two of them). I'm just figuring out how vital it is to use the search function before posting but I had to learn the hard way too.
Hint to pasini510: this board is full of invaluable info and a sharp wit or two.
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We are playing nice. We poke fun at members and ourselves. He can join in the fun or not. An oil thread is ripe for fun.
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Wow Steve, you are slipping. I fixed this one up for ya' too but try to be more careful 'cause I may not catch all of your threads....
;D
Brian
Rotella T6 Flavor Anything else and KiPass, the winning combo! ;D
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Why don't you pick me up a couple of packs of muffler bearings while you're at it. :)
Put me down for a "tank-stretcher" I need more room for fuel....
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NOOB!!!!!!!
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Don't forget that you must ALWAYS torque the nut that holds the handlebars after every oil change.
Some of the nuts on here torque so much it's difficult to get a word in anywhichways. ;D
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I can't believe that, as detailed as PH14 was with the C14 oil change procedure, he forgot one very important step.....
Measuring the oil quantity. I find the best way to accurately meter the oil is to use a syringe. A large 100 ml horse syringe works best, as it minimizes the number of plunger pushes that are required to fill the crankcase. The job can get quite tedious and time consuming with a 5 or 10 ml medical syringe.
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I can't believe that, as detailed as PH14 was with the C14 oil change procedure, he forgot one very important step.....
Measuring the oil quantity. I find the best way to accurately meter the oil is to use a syringe. A large 100 ml horse syringe works best, as it minimizes the number of plunger pushes that are required to fill the crankcase. The job can get quite tedious and time consuming with a 5 or 10 ml medical syringe.
You are so right, I left out that important step. I use a different technique though, I set up an IV with a drip count sensor. Either way it's important to be accurate when refilling the engine with oil.
I would also like to add that the sight glass is not a good way to measure the amount of oil in the engine. Once you have filled up the crankcase with oil and measured accurately, you need to weigh the bike. Write down the weight. To check the oil later, weigh the bike again, if it weighs less, add the corresponding weight in oil. The bike must be freshly washed when you weigh it. You may accumulate several ounces of dirt and bugs as you ride and this will throw off the accuracy.
To be even more accurate, since scales are not always perfectly accurate due to the springs involved in many, you coulld use a balance type scale to find the actual mass of the motorcycle, although these would have to be rather large. Another method would be to place the C14 into a large container of water, such as a pool, and calculate the amount of water it displaces. Any way you decided to do it, be sure to do it exactly the same way every time to assure and accurate measurement.
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Never mind.......
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Well, you could always weigh the bike the way Texans weigh pigs.....
They find a long plank and tie the pig to one end. Then they take the plank and pig to a round- topped rock and very carefully place the very center of the plank on top of aforementioned rock. Then they hunt around day and night for as long as it takes to find a rock that exactly balances the plank against the weight of the pig. Finally, they guess the weight of the balancing rock.
Brian
You are so right, I left out that important step. I use a different technique though, I set up an IV with a drip count sensor. Either way it's important to be accurate when refilling the engine with oil.
I would also like to add that the sight glass is not a good way to measure the amount of oil in the engine. Once you have filled up the crankcase with oil and measured accurately, you need to weigh the bike. Write down the weight. To check the oil later, weigh the bike again, if it weighs less, add the corresponding weight in oil. The bike must be freshly washed when you weigh it. You may accumulate several ounces of dirt and bugs as you ride and this will throw off the accuracy.
To be even more accurate, since scales are not always perfectly accurate due to the springs involved in many, you coulld use a balance type scale to find the actual mass of the motorcycle, although these would have to be rather large. Another method would be to place the C14 into a large container of water, such as a pool, and calculate the amount of water it displaces. Any way you decided to do it, be sure to do it exactly the same way every time to assure and accurate measurement.
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Well, you could always weigh the bike the way Texans weigh pigs.....
They find a long plank and tie the pig to one end. Then they take the plank and pig to a round- topped rock and very carefully place the very center of the plank on top of aforementioned rock. Then they hunt around day and night for as long as it takes to find a rock that exactly balances the plank against the weight of the pig. Finally, they guess the weight of the balancing rock.
Brian
:rotflmao: :chugbeer:
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Well, you could always weigh the bike the way Texans weigh pigs.....
You must mean Aggies, not Texans in general.