The rear rim has a different style of sensor than the front. See photo.  How do I remove it so as to replace the battery?  Do I just dig into it while it is on the rim instead?

This is the new style of TPMS modules.  The unit is potted with epoxy and it's not possible to get it open and replace the battery.  At least I've not seen anyone do this.

If the bike is under warranty, you should be able to get it replaced by the dealer.  If not, you really have nothing to lose by digging into it and seeing if you can locate the battery.  Chances are you'll wreck it but it might help someone else.  Bottom line is that you're going to need a new module.

They are epoxy potted and that makes it very difficult.

Usually you will need one or two sacrificial units to locate the battery, any components close to the battery, and the wires that attach the battery. Then you can dig out the epoxy over the battery, remove it WITHOUT destroying the wires, solder new wires to the originals and install a new battery. Most people give up long before this though.

A video showing how it is done on a similar sensor of the same brand, Schrader. :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjrT7WBG6U8

Brian

The rear rim has a different style of sensor than the front. See photo.  How do I remove it so as to replace the battery?  Do I just dig into it while it is on the rim instead?

I bought the bike used a few years ago and this is the first time I've replaced a rear tire myself.  I knew as soon as I saw the sensor that I was in for a fight.  The battery has been dead for a while.  I Love the TPMS and would like to get it back.

Does anybody know how to get it off of the rim?  Do I have to put another valve stem on while I dick around with the sensor?

I bought the bike used a few years ago and this is the first time I've replaced a rear tire myself.  I knew as soon as I saw the sensor that I was in for a fight.  The battery has been dead for a while.  I Love the TPMS and would like to get it back.

Does anybody know how to get it off of the rim?  Do I have to put another valve stem on while I dick around with the sensor?

Yes, you use a hex driver, I believe it's 4mm  but I may remember incorrectly, and you unscrew it from the inside of the rim.  If needed there are wrench flats on the outside portion, hold that with a wrench if needed.

I think now on this style you simply hold the module with one hand and use a wrench on the flats of the valve stem to unscrew it.  Once you have that part off you can pull the module out of the hole for replacement.

You can buy a new one from Kawasaki but, unfortunately, they are proprietary and fairly expensive.  Plus you need a KDS3 unit to program the bike to the new TPMS module's ID.  Dealers should have them, some COG members have them too.  Ask around if you decide to go that route.

They are epoxy potted and that makes it very difficult.

Usually you will need one or two sacrificial units to locate the battery, any components close to the battery, and the wires that attach the battery. Then you can dig out the epoxy over the battery, remove it WITHOUT destroying the wires, solder new wires to the originals and install a new battery. Most people give up long before this though.

A video showing how it is done on a similar sensor of the same brand, Schrader. :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjrT7WBG6U8

Brian

While it is the same manufacturer, it appears to be a different configuration sensor.  I'm sure it can be done with the Kawasaki module but knowing where the battery is would really help as you start "digging" into the epoxy.  I've done a bit of this sort of work in past lives but we had access to X-ray machines that could give us a view of what is where.  There are also special tools that will mill out different areas once you identify what is where and how deep it is.

Eventually someone will have a case like this one where the new-style sensor is NOT covered under warranty and will be willing to let it be used as a guinea-pig.  I'm sure the batteries in the new-style can be replaced, but knowing where to dig into the thing is important!

I'm keeping my old style sensors for the duration even though my warranty would have replaced them.  Takes maybe 10-15 minutes to replace the battery and they are good as new!

Thanks for the replies.  Much appreciated.

OK.  Here is the list of "to do" that I had in mind for today this week.

Replace the tires.
Replace the TPS batteries (easy).
Replace the air filter.
Fix my stupid windscreen that won't raise any more.

Not so.  As it often happens when I start removing stuff to get at other stuff I find more stuff that needs attention.  I have to add to that list seals on the forks - the goo that was inside is on the outside.

So I am gooing to take my time and not rush.  As far as TPS batteries are concerned I did manage to coax out the potting material and found that the battery can be replaced (3VDC, CR2050HR).  I had to perform some selective demolition as the pics show but I think I can salvage it with some Plasti-Coat and a little luck.  I will endeavor to update this thread if anyone is interested.

Tree, nice work on the tps so far. Please keep us informed on how it goes. 

Tree, nice work on the tps so far. Please keep us informed on how it goes. 

10-4.

I think now on this style you simply hold the module with one hand and use a wrench on the flats of the valve stem to unscrew it.  Once you have that part off you can pull the module out of the hole for replacement.

That was it.  Thanks.

I see the battery is a CR2050 TABBED cell.  The older style used CR2032 which has about 2/3 of the capacity (32/50 to be exact) so that explains why these last longer.  Looks to be pretty easy to service though.  Get a tabbed cell and solder it there in place of the old one.

Don't try to solder tabs or wires to an untabbed cell!  At best you'll ruin the cell.  At worst it will burst in your face.

Alternatively, solder a battery holder in place of the cell and then you can just slip the battery in.  You'll probably want to restrain the battery in this case to keep it from popping out, however.  I'd probably use some electrical tape around the entire sensor.

 

Outstanding- this is the first time I have see a new Schrader TPS for a C-14 that had the battery cavity (Easy Boys!) open. Nice job on not destroying anything around the batter although it does look like the battery compartment is pretty isolated. They are tougher when the battery is against the active PCB and wired with 30 ga. solid copper wires.... 

Thanks for posting that photo of the TPS. Gives me the courage to dig into one on a tech. day with the understanding that 1) it is my first one and 2) I may well butcher it on the way in.

Brian

Thanks for the replies.  Much appreciated.

OK.  Here is the list of "to do" that I had in mind for today this week.

Replace the tires.
Replace the TPS batteries (easy).
Replace the air filter.
Fix my stupid windscreen that won't raise any more.

Not so.  As it often happens when I start removing stuff to get at other stuff I find more stuff that needs attention.  I have to add to that list seals on the forks - the goo that was inside is on the outside.

So I am gooing to take my time and not rush.  As far as TPS batteries are concerned I did manage to coax out the potting material and found that the battery can be replaced (3VDC, CR2050HR).  I had to perform some selective demolition as the pics show but I think I can salvage it with some Plasti-Coat and a little luck.  I will endeavor to update this thread if anyone is interested.

I bought the bike used a few years ago and this is the first time I've replaced a rear tire myself.  I knew as soon as I saw the sensor that I was in for a fight.  The battery has been dead for a while. 

That is disappointing.  The "new" version of the sensor has not been out all that long.  3 years?  Hearing that it has gone dead already is not what we want to hear (and yours is the first posting of such for the new version, that I know of).  This non-serviceable "improved" model with larger battery was supposed to have a much longer battery life (I was hoping for 5 or more years).  Maybe yours just failed for another reason?

Keep in mind, the version used on my G37 is now 8 years old and still working.  This is why it is so irritating that these die so soon in the Concours.

Anyway, cool work on digging it out!

That is disappointing.  The "new" version of the sensor has not been out all that long.  3 years?  Hearing that it has gone dead already is not what we want to hear (and yours is the first posting of such for the new version, that I know of).  This non-serviceable "improved" model with larger battery was supposed to have a much longer battery life (I was hoping for 5 or more years).  Maybe yours just failed for another reason?

Keep in mind, the version used on my G37 is now 8 years old and still working.  This is why it is so irritating that these die so soon in the Concours.

Anyway, cool work on digging it out!

No need to discount the new type just yet.  As I said I bought the bike used 3 years ago so I don't know how long it"s been in there.  It did have a beefier battery tho.  So who knows?

No need to discount the new type just yet.  As I said I bought the bike used 3 years ago so I don't know how long it"s been in there. 

What I was saying is that I don't think the new sensor model has been available/used/seen/in-production for more than 3 or so years...

What I was saying is that I don't think the new sensor model has been available/used/seen/in-production for more than 3 or so years...

Got it.  Silly human me.

No telling how long the 'new to the concours' sensor has been in existence...might be ten years old and from another application. Do these button batteries have a service date on them?

The batteries are replaced.  The front TPS housing was all jacked up from previous attempts to replace the battery by previous owner(s).  I Plasti-Dipped it while holding it together with tie wraps.  I didn't want to add too much weight so I took the wraps off after it dried.  It looks just fine with the tire installed.

I replaced the battery in the rear unit with a CR2025 3V because that's what I had.  If it lasts a few years I'll be happy.

Hell, if either one of them work after what I did to them I'll be ecstatic!  I know about the tie-a-string-to-it-and-spin-it test but the bike is in several pieces right now with the battery disconnected.  We will have to wait and see.  I'm waiting on fork seals and don't expect them until late this week.  With any luck I'll be back on two wheels this weekend.

so they're going back in with no covers?