... increase in vibration, ...
... slugging acceleration when using small throttle openings ...
These are symptoms I've had with my bike from the first day of ownership. My dealer recommended a TB sync to Kawasaki within the first couple of months, but they would not authorize it. Now, after 21,000 miles, it's no better.
Thanks for providing this information, as it reinforces my hope that a TB sync will make my bike better. It's just the damn annoyance of buying a new bike so I would not have to work on it, only to be put into this scenario that frustrates me so.
I have not bought a gauge set yet, and at this point, I don't trust *any* dealer to do it right. As soon as I find the time to do some shopping, I'll have a TB sync gauge set, and I'll tackle this job (during the upcoming wet season). If anyone has recommendations on their favorite gauge set and why you like it, please feel free to let me know.
I just finished doing the second T.B. synch. on my bike at 73K miles- the one previously had been done at just over 50K miles. Both times the center balance screw between the two sets of throttle bodies (the screw between T.B. #2 and #3) was off considerably. The first time I balanced the TB's there was no noticeable difference afterward but they were not all that far off to begin with- they were w/in 2 cm of mercury before I started if I remember correctly. This time they varied by close to 4 cm and the bike had been running a bit poorly; an increase in vibration, especially on initially opening the throttle, slugging acceleration when using small throttle openings and longer cranking times. I also had to adjust the air bleed screws on T.B. #1 and 2 but those were not off much by comparison (less than 1 cm on #1 and #2) This time the difference was immediately noticeable- throttle response greatly improved, and vibration is down by quite a bit.
It seems that the joint in the middle of the throttle linkage may be a wear point. Of course I do not know if this is just on my bike or is something in the design that will cause it to change over time on most (or all) C-14's but it is probably worth a check on any high mileage bikes. It is easiest to combine the T.B. synch with a valve lash check, spark plug change and air filter change or inspection because it is a fair amount of work to do the T.B. synch alone. Combining it with other maintenance items at least shares a lot of the labor with other engine maintenance tasks.
Brian
Brian, I seem to remember a post From you a while back discussing it being acceptable to balance with the individual bleed screws and bypass the center screw all together. That's how I did mine. Forgive me if I misquote. If I did, can you refresh my memory? When I pulled maintenance, I just set them all to highest value the bodies would produce on the carbtune and then tapered them all down to match the lowest value.
Also, I've got my hoses coiled up and stored for future use on right side versus left. I capped them good with electrical tape. I noticed from ur post u advocated left side. Does it matter? If so I need to crack the Tupperware and move ASAP.
As always, appreciate your advice.
Will
Brian, thx...what about where to leave the hoses for future use...left side or right side? I've currently got coiled up to the right.
Are these three the only real choice, other than dial gauges (not really a good choice though)?
no, they are the choices everyone makes based on cost and percieved accuracy.
If you truley want the best SYNCH tool, (notice i am not saying tool to get an actual reading on vacume), the best by a long shot is the Twin-Max..I have tested it up against every current gauge out there, and none were as accurate or sensitive in "comparative synching", which is what you are doing, comparing A to B.
http://www.aerostich.com/twinmax-synchronizer.html
just for reference, you can find them cheaper, you have to look around, I paid $79 for mine 6 years ago.
the hoses on my kawasaki issued mercury sticks (I bought in 1975) are gonna rot before I ever use that tool again.
The Twin-Max, coupled with a single accurate calibrated vacume gauge (to find the actual vacume for the comparison start point, i.e. actual mm/hg) are the best combo.
this works;
http://tiny.cc/lax6p
you only need one....
mind you, I have installed hoses that reside on the left side of the bike also, plugged, been there since I adjusted valves the first time.
Thanks MOB,
I was searching around for a good price on the TwinMax, and found this drawing on a BMW site: .
First thing I thought was "Now that's the ultimate Connie owners TB sync tool!"
For those who are interested, here is the thread it came from, with pics of it in use: http://www.bikersoracle.com/rs/forum/showthread.php?t=1910
I just know I'll have to try this, for curiosities sake.
Well sure it's only a balance guage, but you could make 3 of them, connect them all up at the same time, and then you would have a compound (complex?) balance gauge.
Come on Brian, where's that sense of Yankee Enginuity!
Good thing you ride a C14, you would never pass for a C10 rider.
Er, well I already addressed that. You can have as many cylinders on ONE gauge as you want just by using Tees cut into the line at the bottom. That way you don't have to worry about having the identical amount of fluid in each gauge nor if each one is at the exact same height.
C'mon, physics is your friend.... and you don't want it to be your enemy because that almost never goes well.
Brian
Slightly confused here,
Fred's video shows adjusting the center screw that balances the left /right banks BEFORE you sync the banks... Wouldn't it be better the other way around? (Sync the left 2 carbs to each other, then sync the right 2 carbs to each other then match them with the center screw?)
*scratches head*