Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Matt L on August 29, 2014, 07:29:04 PM
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Can anyone help me locate the pulsing coil? Thx!
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There's two of them, both under the left side engine cover. Said cover has a rather large screw cap/cover on it. Large enough for a quarter anyway.
The coils are inside.
Rick
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what is a pulsing coil and what does it do?
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"Pulsing Coil" is Kawasaki's version of a Hall Sensor.
It generates a small electrical current whenever something metallic passes by it. Used to generate a pulse to measure RPM, how many widgets pass by on a conveyor belt, etc. Or in our case, to generate a pulse (that gets amplified in the IC box and coils) that makes spark at the plugs.
Rick
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Thank you. Learned something new today.
"Pulsing Coil" is Kawasaki's version of a Hall Sensor.
It generates a small electrical current whenever something metallic passes by it. Used to generate a pulse to measure RPM, how many widgets pass by on a conveyor belt, etc. Or in our case, to generate a pulse (that gets amplified in the IC box and coils) that makes spark at the plugs.
Rick
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Thanks!
One last question...do I have to drain the oil to remove the coils?
Matt
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No you don't.
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Do the coils need to be gapped, and if so, what gap?
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Do the coils need to be gapped, and if so, what gap?
Yes. .020-.035" (.5-.9mm).
If curious, both leads of the coil are isolated from ground, and coil resistance should be on the order of 400-600 ohms. There is a disconnect up by the alternator you can use to check this.
Rick
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Thanks Rick!
One of my coils was shorting out after the engine got warm. The other was reading 500 ohms.
Ordered a new set last night.
Thanks again.
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Very easy installation and to gap. I've done mine.
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I completed the installation of the pulsing coil. It was very simple to install. The gap of the old coil (bike has 36K miles) was about .028", but the new coil was about .022". I couldn't gap the new coil any differently. I suppose the gap increases as the points on the coil wear down.
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There are no points to wear out :)
The gap is kinda set from the factory. Important things is it's where you need to be, and it runs. I'll assume it runs? :)
RIck
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I was able to adjust the gap. Just loosen the mounting bolts and put a feeler guage in there to set the gap. With the feeler guage in place, snug the two bolts. Do for other side and you're done.
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There are no points to wear out :)
The gap is kinda set from the factory. Important things is it's where you need to be, and it runs. I'll assume it runs? :)
RIck
Thanks Rick. Yes, it runs like a champ. The points I was referring to are the two metal pieces protruding from the coils (small round metal object protruding from the rectangular coil). This is the "point" that passes the electric current...if that makes any sense.