Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Armyguns on May 13, 2011, 06:15:53 AM
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Just installed these last night:
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/34 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/34)
I got them as part of a group buy through one of the other bike forums. By the time I was done last night I didn't get any road time with them, but they absolutely LIT UP my 400 foot driveway.
They are mounted on my MC Enterprises "handicap' front bars, controlled off of a thumb operated toggle switch mounted under the left grip.
I'm headed to Hagerstown, MD (from NJ) in about an hour from now to take the Total Control Clinic tonight/tomorrow. I'll be playing with the lights to gauge cagers reactions.
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I wonder how these compare to the Clearwater lights? They are way cheaper, that's for sure. The mounting bracket doesn't look all that strong, can you comment on your thoughts on that? Or is the bracket different than what is shown in that link?
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Hi
Can you share pictures and price ?
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Funny, I posted here and shortly after, I got an e-mail from a guy running an ebay store selling those same LED lights....
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do you have ebay store link so that we can check thr lights feedback by other users
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do you have ebay store link so that we can check thr lights feedback by other users
Here is the link for the ones we would be interested in:
http://stores.ebay.com/24x7-DIY/Bike-Light-/_i.html?_fsub=1549833010&_sid=996616520&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 (http://stores.ebay.com/24x7-DIY/Bike-Light-/_i.html?_fsub=1549833010&_sid=996616520&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)
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Just finished a 170 mile highway run with the lights on the whole way. For those cages that were going to move over, they did it sooner than experience shows when not running with the lights on. The cages that didn't move...well, I don't think anything short of flashing red and blue would get them to move.
The brackets are a bit wimpy, but these are not heavy lights. The way I have them mounted- pictures to follow when I get back from this trip- seems to have worked fine. The lights have not moved left-right or up-down.
These are VERY WHITE lights. I didn't realize how white they were last night. Today, when I pulled up behind one of those 'mirrored' tractor-trailers I could clearly see the beam as compared to the stock headlight. These made the stock headlights look very yellow.
The price through the group buy was $145. For that money, I'm sorry I didn't grab a second pair.
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Pics of your mounting location?
I still think that if they want to sell to the motorcycle community, they might want to make some brackets that are a little beefier. I understand what you are saying about them not being heavy, but it doesn't take much to design and manufacture some heavier gauge brackets.
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Just installed these last night:
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/34 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/34)
They look interesting, but I am automatically skeptical when I see the term "HID" misused like they did. But yes, even the good LED's are still more "blue". And I, too, would love to see pictures.
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Just finished a 170 mile highway run with the lights on the whole way.
You were blinding all oncoming traffic?
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Has the group buy finished?
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You were blinding all oncoming traffic?
This run was all multi-lane divided highway so on-coming traffic wasn't a problem, plus it was daylight. I can say that having the lights on sure made same direction traffic ahead of me NOTICE me sooner and move out of the way sooner. It will be a couple of days before I am riding where on-coming traffic reaction can be evaluated. I know running them at night with on-coming traffic isn't going to be possible. Too bright.
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Has the group buy finished?
Unfortunately, yes. But if someone wants to set up another thru this forum I could probably get the info from the guy who did it on the other one.
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They look interesting, but I am automatically skeptical when I see the term "HID" misused like they did. But yes, even the good LED's are still more "blue". And I, too, would love to see pictures.
I will be taking pics when I get home- probably not until Sunday. I'm out of town taking the ARC class. Only three of us in the class so student-instructor ratio is 3-1! Can't ask for better than that.
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these are same Lights http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.186376344743991.46861.120081598040133&l=204bcd3b5c (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.186376344743991.46861.120081598040133&l=204bcd3b5c)
I found on Facebook
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Can you show some pics of the lights on your bike? I have been wanting to install some myself but it needs to look good. thanks
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these are same Lights http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.186376344743991.46861.120081598040133&l=204bcd3b5c (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.186376344743991.46861.120081598040133&l=204bcd3b5c)
I found on Facebook
Those appear to be the same as what I just installed. The ARC instructor I was with last night qnd today, Tracy Martin, has a set of the Clearwater lights on his bike so we compared side by side. The four bulb 1800 lumin lights I have are way brighter. Clearwater has a big advantage now that I see the two side by side, but the difference is their wiring, not with the light output. Clearwater's supplied wiring harness include a dimming pot and relay. The way Tracy has his wired is that the LEDs come on with the headlight, but he adjusts the intensity down with the pot so they can be on all the time, day and night. When he switches his high beam on, the LEDs automatically go to full bright. Turning the high beam off, reduces the LEDs back to the less than full bright setting. This is a big advantage, but I don't think it is worth another $300 bucks.
Hoping I could perhaps buy the pot for brightness adjustment from Clearwater I checked out their site. First if doesn't appear they sell just the pot. Even if they did, the wiring diagrams they have up shows each of their LED's have three wires, where mine have just two. Apparently their third wire is what makes the dimming action work with the relay.
For the money, I'm satisfied with what I have, but I can't say I wouldn't really like to have the flexibility of the Clearwater setup.
BTW- despite a lot of the ARC class being conducted in the rain, we had a BLAST. Only three bikes, so we got lots of practice.
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I am planning to buy it.
any body interested in group buy ?
please PM me
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I would be outside taking night pics of the lights right now if it wasn't pouring down rain. I took these earlier today between downpours.
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I have these hooked up to a switched lead from my aux fuze block. I installed a simple on-off toggle switch in a Radio Shack 'hobby box' and used heavy duty hook and loop strips (velcro) to fasten the box under the left handgrip. I can easily flick the switch with the thumb of my left hand. Forward is OFF (push off).
I still want to experiment with tying into the high beam circuit with a relay so they come on with the highbeams. I think I found an on-line source for a "pot" to be able to turn down the brightness. As I sort it all out, I'll post additional info if anyone wants it.
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wow cool :)
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Hello all
Group buy is setup with seller. any body interested please let me know
Normal Price is $165USD and Group buy Price is $145USD
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FINALLY, it has stopped raining long enough to get the bike positioned outside to take some pictures. All of these were taken with the bike on the centerstand at 50 feet distance from the shed.
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Two more....
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Great Job
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Well done!
FYI, second generation Denali lights are available from The Twisted Throttle, and they are round, finally!
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/6158/790/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/6158/790/)
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Awesome, I am pulling out the charge card as i type ;D
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hi
check these good deal on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20W-12V-1800LM-CREE-LED-Light-Rally-Ranger-4x4-Dirt-ATV-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb89e58eeQQitemZ260795422958QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3026wt_1009 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20W-12V-1800LM-CREE-LED-Light-Rally-Ranger-4x4-Dirt-ATV-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb89e58eeQQitemZ260795422958QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3026wt_1009)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3026wt_1009 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3026wt_1009)
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Looks like the same lights. I absolutely love mine. I have not changed the wiring to incorporate the dimmer and relay yet since I really haven't been home long enough to do it. For daylight driving these really get the attention of oncoming and crossing drivers. Between them and the standard Hi-beam the night goes away, but it is a PITA to have to turn both the LEDs and Hi beams on-and-off separately.
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jalthar,
You should ask the person you setup the group buy with what is different between the ones they are selling for $145 and these :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
... Other than these are only $142 with free shipping for a pair. Maybe you can get them to lower their price a little more.
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jalthar,
You should ask the person you setup the group buy with what is different between the ones they are selling for $145 and these :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1800Lm-LED-HID-Driving-Lights-Bike-ATV-12V-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a66a5a63cQQitemZ250830235196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
... Other than these are only $142 with free shipping for a pair. Maybe you can get them to lower their price a little more.
These are coming from India... and I thought this was a bit cute... something to watch out for.
International Buyers – Please Note:
Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost.
The buyer is responsible for the import customs clearance and all duties, taxes and other costs in the country of destination
Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding or buying
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Hello
please note on group buy i got light at @145USD plus $6USD extra paid for domestic shipping.
as all lights delivered at one place to save international shipping cost. After that lights ship to each group memeber.
all lights are sell by same seller.
$142USD Auction starting price so final price may be depends on bidings.
as all lights shipping from outside USA and changes of Custom Taxes.
But Touch wood there was no custom tax on our delivery.
Rest on your luck guys if you are able to get low price
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Hello
I am Happy with Lights.
I am going to setup group buy again for my friends
any body interested please PM me
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any body interested please PM me
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Good news now no need for Group buy as Lights are on sale by seller now 180Lm 20Watt Quad CREE Lights pair @ $139USD only with shipping
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/78 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/78)
http://24x7diy.com/index.php/cPath/33 (http://24x7diy.com/index.php/cPath/33)
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I think I found an on-line source for a "pot" to be able to turn down the brightness. As I sort it all out, I'll post additional info if anyone wants it.
Ooh, are you sure thats gonna work? the LED's are not resistive like filament based bulbs. I think the transformer between you and the LEDs is gonna have a problem with anything outside 10% and anything inside 10% won't affect the brightness at all, just my guess of course.
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Ooh, are you sure thats gonna work? the LED's are not resistive like filament based bulbs. I think the transformer between you and the LEDs is gonna have a problem with anything outside 10% and anything inside 10% won't affect the brightness at all, just my guess of course.
They work just as I planned. I've written a tech article on how I did it, with pics and a wiring diagram. I have the LEDs wired to a switched power supply (off when ignition is off). ON, through the dimmer when the bike is on, and full bright when I turn the bike high beam on. I have them dimmed to a low level for Daytime Running Lights and so that I can run them without on-coming traffic blasting me with their highbeams.
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They work just as I planned. I've written a tech article on how I did it, with pics and a wiring diagram.
Are you going to share?
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Are you going to share?
Since you asked so nicely, sure! :) I've submitted this for a Tech Article on the COG site and it has been accepted. I hope this helps explain ONE wiring option that provides a great deal of options.
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Since you asked so nicely, sure! :) I've submitted this for a Tech Article on the COG site and it has been accepted. I hope this helps explain ONE wiring option that provides a great deal of options.
Nice pictures and diagram.
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Tech Review for 1800lm led lights by TechArtGuy
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=53401 (http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=53401)
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New Model
Quad CREE XML T6 3000Lm 12V 30Watt LED Auxiliary Light
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94)
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Since you asked so nicely, sure! :) I've submitted this for a Tech Article on the COG site and it has been accepted. I hope this helps explain ONE wiring option that provides a great deal of options.
great write up. Thanks for sharing! :thumbs:
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The original source for many LED kits (like Denali):
http://www.visionxusa.com/LED/c1/index.html
My current rig is a WalMart special that is absolutely great in both see and be-seen mode, although the price ($16.99 pair) suggests it should be junk. Uses $6 MR16 bulbs that can be gotten in patterns from spot to wide, and several color temps. They surface rust in a couple of years at which point you just spend another $16.99. Will post some pics ASAP.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/platinum-burners-55-watt-clear-lens-driving-light-kit/p2023274.jcwx
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New Model
Quad CREE XML T6 3000Lm 12V 30Watt LED Auxiliary Light
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94)
Thanks for the heads up. I've been waiting for the new XML T6 to make it into a triple or quad LED driving light package. They have been all over eBay as flashlights for a couple of months now, so I knew it was just a matter of time.
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They have triple & quad CREE XML T6 various version.
even warm white version for fog light use.
you can check with them.
Even they make light according to you. email them on info@24x7diy.com
or visit www.24x7diy.com (http://www.24x7diy.com)
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Video's of 1800Lm lights
http://youtu.be/RElB3cst4Z8 (http://youtu.be/RElB3cst4Z8)
http://youtu.be/a9YPAWInWac (http://youtu.be/a9YPAWInWac)
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Well, the new 3000 Lumen LED driving lights showed up today, and I'm here to tell you, LED lights have gone nuclear!
I connected one of them to a small portable jump starter I have, and lit up the tree tops of the big Fir trees around my property (it was raining, so no fires were started with them). I still need to get them out on the road where the illumination distance can be checked out in a more realistic scenario, but one of them had no problem lighting things up 300 to 400 feet out. The beam appears to be a dual focus of intense spot light that gets way out there, and a more localized flood light around the spot. The T6 LED is rated at 6000K, so it's a very white light.
They are small, as you can see in the attached pics. They are also much heavier than I expected, based on their physical size. They weigh in at 1/2 lb each (just under 8oz).
Thanks to Armyguns for the link for his dimmer circuit (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=207.msg28222#msg28222 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=207.msg28222#msg28222)), and the LED dimmer module (http://www.printerdoctor.com/leddimmer.htm (http://www.printerdoctor.com/leddimmer.htm)). I was going to make my own, but for $14, it's hardly worth the trouble. These lights are rated at 2.5amps at 12VDC (each), and the dimmer is rated for 8 amps max.
The fourth attachment is a 1 page flyer on the lights, that the seller emailed to me a couple days after I ordered them. They came in from China, but with a USPS tracking number, so there were no surprises. It took about 2 weeks to get them.
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Here is a close up picture of the bracket. The rear of the light is a large heat sink, and unscrews from the body. The bracket can be reversed so the foot is facing either direction. It appears the bracket is stainless, and quite sturdy. I thought it might be flimsy, but it's not.
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Bl3000
3000Lm Lights Pair Beam effect
1st Picture IMG_0633 is with Bike Low beam
2nd Picture IMG_0634 is with Bike High Plus Low beam
3Rd Picture IMG_0635 is with 3000Lm Lights Pair
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Jalthar, I don't think those pictures are doing the LED lights justice. Where do you have them mounted?
I'll try to get some pics posted soon, if it stays dry long enough to do that.
For those looking for a low beam dimmer solution, I ordered one of these : http://www.ebay.com/itm/220834955528?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220834955528?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
At only $4, it's not a big investment if it doesn't work. I will be modifying it to make it weather proof once I receive it.
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Semi-wordless 24x7 DIY Light write up:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1000.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1001.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1003.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1004.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1006.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1008.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1010.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1012.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1011.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1017.jpg)
Bit of explanation here - Lights were too far back and under hard braking would hit the inner leading edge of the fairing. Not good.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1049-1.jpg)
Inherent weak spot because up and down motion from jarring bumps cause flex, then permanent bend...
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1042-1.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1051.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1047.jpg)
Old 35w WallyWorld POSs...
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_0028.jpg)
Back position, before moving then to the front of the forks...
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/bugnut_bucket/Kawabunga/IMG_1046.jpg)
Mike
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Hey Mike, what rating are those?
Are you only using them for daytime running lights?
Also, how do you like the fender mount point, do you think it's solid enough?
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For those looking for a low beam dimmer solution, I ordered one of these : http://www.ebay.com/itm/220834955528?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220834955528?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
At only $4, it's not a big investment if it doesn't work. I will be modifying it to make it weather proof once I receive it.
So I received the controller, but after playing with it, I'm not satisfied with it. The output is not a clean PWM signal, not even close. Looking at it on a O-scope, it's more like a pulse train of spikes, with a variable delay of inactivity after them, and repeats. It causes the LED lights to flicker while adjusting it, until they get up to about half brightness.
I reverse engineered the circuit, and it is really bad. One of the worst implementations of a 555 timer I've ever seen. The good news is all the necessary components are there minus a couple of diodes (plus a few extra parts), so with some rework, I think it will make a great dimmer for low beam use.
If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post the details. I suspect it will be more than folks here would be willing to tackle though (requires some surface mount soldering).
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The forum is interested. Please post the details.
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So I received the controller, but after playing with it, I'm not satisfied with it. The output is not a clean PWM signal, not even close. Looking at it on a O-scope, it's more like a pulse train of spikes, with a variable delay of inactivity after them, and repeats. It causes the LED lights to flicker while adjusting it, until they get up to about half brightness.
Most LED "dimmers" do just that- pulses. That is because LED's don't tolerate dimming via voltage variation very much (maybe 20% or something). A good pulse dimmer will strobe fast enough (always above 60 Hz) so the human eye can't tell. Poor ones will strobe too slowly at higher dimming and it is visible. I had a phone that did it wrong for the keyboard backlight and it drove me crazy (especially since I apparently have more sensitive eyes for strobing, compared to most people who couldn't tell).
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The forum is interested. Please post the details.
Well, OK Jim, since you asked nicely. It will take several posts to show what I have so far, and I'm not done yet.
For starters, here are some pictures of the $4 unit I bought.
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Here are some pictures of the power switching signal it outputs to the LED lights at different settings.
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Here is the current draw at the maximum setting (for both 3000Lm lights), and a quick drawing of the schematic I did using webtronics.googlecode.com (http://webtronics.googlecode.com).
I'll probably end up with a circuit more like the 2nd pic, except instead of connecting to a motor it would connect to the LEDs.
Since gimp didn't translate the file to JPG correctly, even though everything did show up fine with qwenview, I've attached the .svg file as a zip, since the forum doesn't allow the svg extension directly.
Update: Where there's a will, there's a way. Attached a JPG of the circuit of the unit as it is today. It's the last pic.
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Most LED "dimmers" do just that- pulses. That is because LED's don't tolerate dimming via voltage variation very much (maybe 20% or something). A good pulse dimmer will strobe fast enough (always above 60 Hz) so the human eye can't tell. Poor ones will strobe too slowly at higher dimming and it is visible. I had a phone that did it wrong for the keyboard backlight and it drove me crazy (especially since I apparently have more sensitive eyes for strobing, compared to most people who couldn't tell).
maxtog, yes, a good dimmer will output pulses at a high enough frequency to be undetectable with the human eye. I expect a good dimmer to output a clean square wave signal, of varying duty cycle, at a high enough frequency.
If you look at the picture of the signals output by this particular dimmer, you'll see what I mean by "it's not clean".
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Hey Mike, what rating are those?
Are you only using them for daytime running lights?
Also, how do you like the fender mount point, do you think it's solid enough?
Sir,
These are the 550Lm model. Just the 3 "bulb" versions as I did not want to deal with a dimmer. And thus far I've used them day and night, no problems with on-comming traffic.
Mounting point on the fender seems to be perfect. Infinitely more stable than my cobbled up brackets. Which by the way held 3 or 4 pairs of lights stable on the same number of bikes. Here, with the bracket on the light the way it is, amplified any movement up and down and bent both the light bracket and my scratch built brackets. Seems there is less room for flex with the light brackets in this orientation as opposed to my first attempt.
Note to those using these lights...The glass will not take a significant hit from road debris. Didn't grab a pic, but the lens shattered from something tossed up from a friends rear tire while running "spiritedly" on a chip and seal road Sunday. Easy enough fix with some Lexan and an hour. Lesson learned!
Mike
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I'm planning on going with the 550lm (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/33 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/33)) version for day/night running lights since I don't really have a use for the higher output since I ride in a lot of traffic.
Is the headlight switched power lead easily accessible? Is it blue/white?
Also, there looks to be only one wire out of the lights, do they just ground themselves to the mount?
I'll wire it up like the diagram below, and may just get the prefab'd wiring harness at PepBoys. (Pilot Motorsports: Wiring Harness w/Switch part PL-HARN3). I'll need to get a different switch though cause I want a round one for the empty spot next to the left headlight adjuster. Any help on where to get that? Murph has one with his grip heaters.
(http://www.valueaccessories.net/Lightbar%20wiring.gif)
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Caffinated- Look at page three of this thread. I had posted a pretty detailed writeup of how and where I mounted and wired my lights. I am sure that this will be of help in identifying wires and locations.
armyguns.....
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Caffinated- Look at page three of this thread. I had posted a pretty detailed writeup of how and where I mounted and wired my lights. I am sure that this will be of help in identifying wires and locations.
armyguns.....
Yep, I read it. Great write-up, and would be the way I would go, but I don't think I need that much light output. I don't have a fuse box (yet), so will just need to pull power from some switched source.
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I just order a set of those LED lights for my 09 concours and this is my idea :
It has HID on it so this idea is only for a concours with HID
HID lights come with it's own relay and are connected directly to the battery and use the headlights circuit to control them only by one of the H4 light bulb connectors, and don't draw any amps from that circuit that is designed to handle in high beam 60 W x 2 and in low beam 55 W x 2 with 2 relays one for high beam and other for low beam, right now with the HID"s that circuit is doing nothing so i will use it to connect the new LED lights to the other H4 light bulb connector that also is doing nothing right now, in between will install a toggle 3 positions switch that will command this LED's OFF in the center, ON with high beams in the position 1 at one end and ON with low beams in the position 2 at the other end, this is easy for me to understand because I'm a auto mechanic and i know about electric circuits and will be hard for anyone how don't know about
I will mount the LED lamps under the mirrors, they have a thick metal bracket so i have to drill in the midle of the 3 bolts that hold the mirror to the mount and tap for a M 6 theads
Does any one knows where can i get a weather resistant toggle switch with center position off?
Any suggestion will be appreciated, I'm not a native English speaker so i apologize if my writing is hard to understand
Hope you guys understand what i mean
Thanks
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I have these hooked up to a switched lead from my aux fuze block. I installed a simple on-off toggle switch in a Radio Shack 'hobby box' and used heavy duty hook and loop strips (velcro) to fasten the box under the left handgrip. I can easily flick the switch with the thumb of my left hand. Forward is OFF (push off).
I still want to experiment with tying into the high beam circuit with a relay so they come on with the highbeams. I think I found an on-line source for a "pot" to be able to turn down the brightness. As I sort it all out, I'll post additional info if anyone wants it.
Is that switch weather resistant?
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Here is what i need for this proyect
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250956114715?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/250956114715?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290637265969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/290637265969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
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Here are some pictures
(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/37754010.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/led_110.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/led_210.jpg)
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More pictures
(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/dscn7810.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/dscn7812.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/dscn7815.jpg)
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Looks great! I may add lights to the front fender and under the mirrors.
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Now here is a picture of the switch
(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/pre_2017.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/pre_2020.jpg)(http://i42.servimg.com/u/f42/12/22/83/92/pre_2019.jpg)
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;)
so is there going to be a group buy for the 3000lmn units per pair??
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Here is mi report of those lights after 10 months of work:
I have those lights on my bike:( http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34)) and they fail after 10 months using them about 20 minutes every morning on my way to work aproximately 73 hours, two leds on each lamp burnout at the same time, i email the company on India where i get them and the say that LED's fail only for overheating, and this is not the case on mine because i mount them under the mirrors , finaly i end having to buy from them the LED's that cost $62.00 and replacing by myself, now they work fine again , when i did the work find that there was not enough heat sink compound betwen the LED's and the heat sink plate to transfer the heat and due to that they overheat and fail, i think that there is not a good customer service from this place so i do not recomend to any body to buy from this place
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Here is mi report of those lights after 10 m onths of work:
I have those lights on my bike:( http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34)) and they fail after 10 months using them about 20 minutes every morning on my way to work aproximately 73 hours, two leds on each lamp burnout at the same time, i email the company on India where i get them and the say that LED's fail only for overheating, and this is not the case on mine because i mount them under the mirrors , finaly i end having to buy from them the LED's that cost $62.00 and replacing by myself, now they work fine again , when i did the work find that there was not enough heat sink compound betwen the LED's and the heat sink plate to transfer the heat and due to that they overheat and fail, i think that there is not a good customer service from this place so i do not recomend to any body to buy from this place
Good review and thanks for the caution, I was seriously considering these as I read this thread until I got to your final post...and you communicate fine for not being a native English speaker!
Your review saved me! Thanks!
Chip
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Glad to know that
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Here is mi report of those lights after 10 months of work:
I have those lights on my bike:( http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_45/products_id/34)) and they fail after 10 months using them about 20 minutes every morning on my way to work aproximately 73 hours, two leds on each lamp burnout at the same time, i email the company on India where i get them and the say that LED's fail only for overheating, and this is not the case on mine because i mount them under the mirrors , finaly i end having to buy from them the LED's that cost $62.00 and replacing by myself, now they work fine again , when i did the work find that there was not enough heat sink compound betwen the LED's and the heat sink plate to transfer the heat and due to that they overheat and fail, i think that there is not a good customer service from this place so i do not recomend to any body to buy from this place
Thanks for the info as I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on getting some LED Driving lights. Now I'm going to have to re-evaluate who (24x7diy or ADVmonster) I'm going to purchase from. I still may go with 24x7diy, but if I do, I'll open them up and check and add the heat sink compound if needed. Heck... no matter who I go with I'm going to check the heat sink compound.
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Thanks for the info as I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on getting some LED Driving lights. Now I'm going to have to re-evaluate who (24x7diy or ADVmonster) I'm going to purchase from. I still may go with 24x7diy, but if I do, I'll open them up and check and add the heat sink compound if needed. Heck... no matter who I go with I'm going to check the heat sink compound.
I'd go with the MondoMotos MM10 bullets...check out the ADV forum vendor section, or here.....http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10701.msg135769#msg135769 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10701.msg135769#msg135769)
and....here....http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=11111.msg135771#msg135771 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=11111.msg135771#msg135771)
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+1 on the MondoMotos MM10 bullets...I have them on our 2010 and love them. ;D
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I do a LOT of night time driving, so IMHO the MondoMotos MM10 bullets are not as powerful as I'd like.
I'm looking at these for my driving light needs. :
ADVmonster Model 60 - http://stores.advmonster.com/-strse-41/Model-60-LED-off/Detail.bok (http://stores.advmonster.com/-strse-41/Model-60-LED-off/Detail.bok)
or
24x7DIY's 4 LED 3100Lm - http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/172 (http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/172)
I'll be looking at the MM10's (and others in this lumen range) later for when I do the fog lights.