Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: wingrider on March 10, 2013, 09:16:09 PM
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Is it possible to completely eliminate the factory tire pressure monitoring system on an 09. I have an aftermarket system from my wing that is a lot nicer than seeing a low battery warning anytime the temps drop below 50.
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Solder in new batteries, have dealer replace the sensors, let the batteries go dead and say the heck with them, or pull out the sensors and install regular old valve stems. The system will just display 2 simple lines where the pressures should be, no warnings or red lights to worry about.
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Anything is possible my friend, but ECU will have to be modified. Sounds like a job for Don from Guhl Motors! Maybe you can kill two birds at once, get your ECU re-flashed and that annoying TPS warning removed!
http://www.guhlmotors.com/Index.html (http://www.guhlmotors.com/Index.html)
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My understanding is if the batteries go totally dead then you will not see the warning any longer.
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I felt the same way until I got a flat on the C14. The system warned me way before I felt it.
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My understanding is if the batteries go totally dead then you will not see the warning any longer.
That is correct. :)
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DESTROY the batteries, as they are evil ;D
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_6PdsPkQFSI0/S_0-JZ5rYyI/AAAAAAAABSk/XWtepFM6GB0/s1600/flamethrower_straight.jpg)
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I was thinking of getting rid of them on my '08 until this morning. On the way to work, I notice the red indicator. Yep, a low rear pressure warning. Looks like I picked up a nail. I was traveling in a straight line and didn't realize any difference in handling til the warning came up- there was only 23 lbs in there! :o
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I was thinking of getting rid of them on my '08 until this morning. On the way to work, I notice the red indicator. Yep, a low rear pressure warning. Looks like I picked up a nail. I was traveling in a straight line and didn't realize any difference in handling til the warning came up- there was only 23 lbs in there! :o
+1 Same thing happened to me.
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I was thinking of getting rid of them on my '08 until this morning. On the way to work, I notice the red indicator. Yep, a low rear pressure warning. Looks like I picked up a nail. I was traveling in a straight line and didn't realize any difference in handling til the warning came up- there was only 23 lbs in there! :o
Yet we have all been getting along just fine without them, since the introduction of motorcycles. ;)
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Yet we have all been getting along just fine without them, since the introduction of motorcycles. ;)
True. We have also been getting along without gas gauges, heated grips, gear indicator, clock, electric windshield and about 100 of the 155 hp. But I don't want to give up any of that either ;D
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True. We have also been getting along without gas gauges, heated grips, gear indicator, clock, electric windshield and about 100 of the 155 hp. But I don't want to give up any of that either ;D
- amen to that !
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True. We have also been getting along without gas gauges, heated grips, gear indicator, clock, electric windshield and about 100 of the 155 hp. But I don't want to give up any of that either ;D
:goodpost: :chugbeer:
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I don't plan on going without anything. I have a Doran system from my wing I will put on the bike. I have run a TPS system for five years and like the sense of security they give.
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68 months sensors batteries to replace.
is time to change the batteries, the battery warning sensor exhaust is going on too many times.
http://youtu.be/KLs3w6gZL6I (http://youtu.be/KLs3w6gZL6I)
Mgvalerio. 8)
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True. We have also been getting along without gas gauges, heated grips, gear indicator, clock, electric windshield and about 100 of the 155 hp. But I don't want to give up any of that either ;D
Rhino for president!!! :o ;D
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Just got around to changing the TPM sensor batteries on my '09 for the first time. Once apart, I saw no reason to solder, cut, or weld anything to do with it. I simply pried the tabs off the old battery, slipped the new one in between the tabs, then re-assembled the sensor. The case is meant to hold a battery tight, whether it has welded tabs or not. Works perfect-o, and the next battery will be a breeze. 8)
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Just got around to changing the TPM sensor batteries on my '09 for the first time. Once apart, I saw no reason to solder, cut, or weld anything to do with it. I simply pried the tabs off the old battery, slipped the new one in between the tabs, then re-assembled the sensor. The case is meant to hold a battery tight, whether it has welded tabs or not. Works perfect-o, and the next battery will be a breeze. 8)
You've done so much simplicity photo! Thank you.
MGvalerio. ::)
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Just got around to changing the TPM sensor batteries on my '09 for the first time. Once apart, I saw no reason to solder, cut, or weld anything to do with it. I simply pried the tabs off the old battery, slipped the new one in between the tabs, then re-assembled the sensor. The case is meant to hold a battery tight, whether it has welded tabs or not. Works perfect-o, and the next battery will be a breeze. 8)
Were the tabs soldered to the batt? You pried the tabs loose with what? I will be doing this next tire. change and wondering what is safer, a soldering iron or a pry bar.
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Just got around to changing the TPM sensor batteries on my '09 for the first time. Once apart, I saw no reason to solder, cut, or weld anything to do with it. I simply pried the tabs off the old battery, slipped the new one in between the tabs, then re-assembled the sensor. The case is meant to hold a battery tight, whether it has welded tabs or not. Works perfect-o, and the next battery will be a breeze. 8)
Without any solder or weld it's just a matter of time before the pressed connection oxidizes and you get the low battery warning.
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Without any solder or weld it's just a matter of time before the pressed connection oxidizes and you get the low battery warning.
I think you have a good point.
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Were the tabs soldered to the batt? You pried the tabs loose with what? I will be doing this next tire. change and wondering what is safer, a soldering iron or a pry bar.
The tabs were laser welded with one or two tiny spots on each tab, and a very small flat blade screwdriver easily pops them off the battery. The act of prying the tabs off leaves a rather pointy surface to engage the new battery, so I think it will not be prone to develop resistance from oxidation. Sort of like those star washers that get a good bite on a wire terminal that's bolted to a car fender, etc.
Add a small dab of battery terminal grease just to be sure. 8)
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Thanks!
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Replaced the battery on my rear TPS today during a tire change. I did unsolder the old batt and soldered in the new one. Took a short test ride and the pressure reading came right up.
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Replaced the battery on my rear TPS today during a tire change. I did unsolder the old batt and soldered in the new one. Took a short test ride and the pressure reading came right up.
Great work! Any gottchas to look out for?
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When I pried apart the plastic housing ,broke , I then noticed a screw under a sticker so i used a good ole hot glue gun to repair. Works great so take sticker off to see screw.
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The screw is tiny and is a TORX head. With my thick, clumsy fingers I managed to drop it in a crack in the driveway. It must be made of a non magnetic alloy, I could not find it with my magnet. But the two halves of the case snap together nice and tight anyway plus when you bolt it to the shrader valve through the wheel I don't see how it could come apart. I was so impatient to take a test ride I did not want to wait for a new screw. I was looking at the pictorial over at the "other site" and following along. The battery I used had different tabs, 180 degrees apart but they worked fine. They are easy to bend and flexible which makes them easy to work with. Test fit the battery before you solder it in.
As in the pictorial I held the circuit board leads with a mini-vice grip held in a vice. The battery tabs had little holes on the end. I put a bit of solder in these first, then held the tab to the lead, which already had some solder and applied heat. A couple seconds was all it took. The vice grips act as a heat sink to protect the circuit board. Once solder together the battery and circuit board both snapped snugly into the case.