I've got a hydrolocked '91 with the #4 rod measuring 1/4" lower than the rest.  It's been parked like this for about ten months, and now I have a garage to rebuild it now, but no real idea of what I'm getting into.  I'm armed with hand tools and the Clymers manual.  Am I a fool to attempt this project? 

Can someone provide a 10,000' view of a #4 rod replacement for newbies? 

I'm sure I'll add lots of dumb questions, you know, just to help the newbies.  Like :

1. Is it safe to buy a used piston on eBay?
2. Does it need to be a #4 piston?

Thanks!

You will be needing the factory manual, as it gives explicit instructions on the matchup of the bearing/crank journal and rod selection. Do not just buy a "rod" prior to ascertaining exactly what rod you need, based on the bearings of the affected one. As far as tools go....well, you will find out you probably do not have the equipment at the time you decide to get into this job, seeing as you probably have never done one, or mentioned it if you did. You will need a large, clear and clean workspace, and a lot of patiance, along with a methodical mechanical ability that most folks simply don't realize, till they are in the middle of the job.....and end up parting te bike out, or passing a partially disasssembled engine on to someone to complete (which is a nightmare for any engine builder, as we do things a bit differently, and segregate parts for reassembly).
Get the factory book, and read up before picking any wrenches up.

  Well, consider this a good chance to learn 

  you are into essentially a rebuild. At least the skills to do a rebuild are going to be heavily relied upon.. You will need to pull all side covers, remove the head and split the cases. You will need an ability to seriously clean everything, and tools to measure torque and small clearances. Patience and attention to detail are absolutely nessessary. if you blow it, it blows up. I say as MOB does, study up first, and enjoy the ride  Steve

Good advice above, get the manual and study it. Then decide.

Oh, and might wanna get yourself some overflow tubes in them carbbies. I'd suggest sending the carbbies off to SiSF. Let him work that carb magic that he possesses.

Hey, guys.  Thanks for the advise.

I think I'm not gonna attempt a rebuild.  It sounds like a bigger project than I'm willing to get into right now.  If it was my garage and I had a vacation, I might give it a shot.  As it is, I've got a runner '86, another GS500, and I don't really need another Connie right now.

I do have SiSF's over flowtubes (now!), so I guess they'll go in my runner '86. I've also got his cams and 2MM, but I was hoping to pile all that into a freshly rebuilt engine.

As the hydrolocked '91 is a good looking carcus, I suppose I'll offer it as a parts bike and cut my losses.  I'm guessing even a pretty, older parts bike like this isn't worth more than $600 or so.  Damn shame.

(BTW, For some reason, I was thinking I could drop an oil pan off the bottom and pull the head, and just replace the rod from the underside.)

I have a slightly used C-14 engine in the crate for sale.....950.00 plus shipping if you want to really move up!

@NinjaWarrior, Now you're talking!  Write me a quick step-by-step, and you've got a deal!

Try craigs list in your area. hers an example on the right coast.
 http://www.searchtempest.com/results.php?search_string=kawasaki+concours+engine&category=8&Region=na&cityselect=zip&location=06067&maxDist=3000&region_us=1&srchType=&showeb=1&keytype=adv&minAsk=&maxAsk=&subcat=sss

Too bad it's not a rod you could get to without splitting the case. Then you might consider attempting it. 

@Cybercraig, which rods can be removed without cracking the case? I thought I'd read that 2 + 3 can come out the bottom.

Part III of this story is that I just found an '87 in red (like my '91) with leaky carbs but still drivable for $500.  Perhaps I should grab that engine, make two bikes into one runner to sell, and keep the extra parts bikes.  I'm kinda glad I don't have a garage, because I'd likely be hoarding cheap connie parts badly!  I have a hard time watching near-runners going for $500-1000 on Craigslist... 

I think #3 comes out of the bottom for sure. Not sure about #2. You'd be crazy to pass up that '87 as it's worth more than that in parts providing it has them all. Looks like an engine swap might be in order here. ;-)

I think #3 comes out of the bottom for sure. Not sure about #2. You'd be crazy to pass up that '87 as it's worth more than that in parts providing it has them all. Looks like an engine swap might be in order here. ;-)

  Based on bore spacing and crank webbing, I don't think any piston / rods come out the bottom. I could be wrong - but I think what's meant is that the rod bolts are accessable from the bottom without splitting the cases. you'ld still have to pull the head and cylinders. Steve

  Based on bore spacing and crank webbing, I don't think any piston / rods come out the bottom. I could be wrong - but I think what's meant is that the rod bolts are accessable from the bottom without splitting the cases. you'ld still have to pull the head and cylinders. Steve

Yea, that's what I was getting at Steve. Which rods can be done that way. Just #3?