Author Topic: Do the handle bars really have to be removed to remove the fork tubes on a C14?  (Read 1013 times)

Offline Charliedog

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The fork seals on my 2013 C14 are leaking, and yes, I've tried the Fork Doctor, so I plan on removing the forks to have the oil seals replaced.  In the service manual it says to remove the handlebar holders from the upper triple.  I have to ask why Kawasaki says that-if it's only for access to the fork caps so they can be loosened before the tubes are removed from the bike, then I don't have to do it-my bike has risers and bar backs, so the caps are accessible.
If there is any other reason to remove the handle bars, let me know.  TIA
CharlieDog
Bristol, TN

Offline maxtog

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When I was examining the procedure, I wondered the same thing.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline zrx mitch

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Offline lather

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Mitch is correct, no reason at all to remove the handlebars. just loosen the upper and lower clamps. People have reported stripping the lower clamp bolts as they are awkward to access. I find it worth the trouble to remove the three bolts that hold the horn and the black plastic piece. This gives you better access to the lower clamp bolts. Once the clamp bolts are loose the lower clamps still have a good grip on the forks. A large flat blade screw driver to wedge the clamp open slightly will let the tube slide right out.
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Offline Charliedog

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Thanks for the replies, and especially lather for the tip.
CharlieDog
Bristol, TN

Offline jwolffie

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Offline Charliedog

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That's a nice idea for a wrench set, but it needs a bit more thought.  The common sizes, 8 and 10, or 12 and 14 mm should not be on the same wrench.  I have yet to see a 9 or 11 mm, or a 13 mm anything outside of Italian accessories.  Just saying.....
CharlieDog
Bristol, TN

Offline maxtog

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When I was looking in there a while ago, it looked like a regular socket wrench might work, if the socket is shallow enough.  A box-end would certainly work, but would take a long time :)

Speed wrenches (as mentioned) can be handy.  I only have ONE, a 16mm, because I bought it to deal with a frustrating engine mount on the C14.  Worked very well.  Probably should have gotten a whole set.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline kzz1king

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I used a 6 point socket....carefully! Bottoms were  tight. Replaced with Allen heads
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Offline maxtog

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I used a 6 point socket....carefully! Bottoms were  tight.

Although I have only 1 speed wrench, I did obtain a set of 6 point sockets not long ago.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc