So in the grand tradition of asking for advice and not following it, I went with Kenda K761 dualsport tires.
https://fortnine.ca/en/kenda-k761-dual-sport-tl-tireI've had a few thousand km on the rear and just installed the front. Compared to a touring tire, they look like tractor tires and they are a little louder than a normal tire. I did spend a few hours yesterday touring the gravel back roads and hit some soft wet patches unexpectedly. For this type of riding, these tires are a definite upgrade as the bike felt really solid. Or as solid as a sport touring bike on loose gravel can be solid.
I also took it out to my favourite s bend. It's certainly no worse than an old radial tire with scalloping, but I'm sure it wouldn't outperform most radials. Definitely fine for most purposes.
In summary, they fit and they won't make the bike squirrelly. If you like to ride on gravel, they are a great tire that still works okay on the pavement. They probably won't last as long as a touring tire, but for 287 cad, tires don't get much cheaper.
@Boomer the old tire was a Pilot 3