Ran into a problem installing the front Canyon Cage's

[RyanMCEnterprises]

Maybe it would be a good idea to use some sort of lubricant or anti-seize compound the first time. Put the bolts in-out a few times then clean the threads before torqueing. Maybe Ryan at MCE could add it as a cautionary note to the instructions.

Man, that red Loctite is nasty stuff! I can certainly update the instructions, though and add a note in there for this. Thanks!

[maxtog]

I just don't understand why Kawasaki thought so much locktite was necessary.  Really- is there any risk of the bolts coming loose without tons of thread lock?  How about without any??

And I am still wondering why there is ANY locktite on the bolts, much less the tons they put on them.

[VirginiaJim]

If you would have had a C10 you would understand why as they had a tendency to fall out.  I guess Kwak went the other way a bit too much with our bikes.  They all sat around a table and said 'We like red.' and there you go.

[Highett]

Mine is a 2011,

First off, I did my research, read all the posts that I could find here and on COG and identified the problem areas such as bolt removal and refitting.

I also looked at the fairing mod posts as it made sense to me to be able to take the fairing off and put it on for servicing without having to remove the cages.

I decided before I purchased the Canyon Cages from MCE  that I would fit them with the fairings off, then mod the fairing and fit with the cages on the bike.

I used a breaker bar to crack the top bolts then a ratchet to remove them, they were very tight - I did not use any heat

I never had a problem aligning the bolts when bolting the cages on however I did spend some time cleaning each bolt hole thread very thoroughly, I did not use a thread tap as I could not get one locally, I used the blue loctite in case I had to remove them at some point in the future.

When fitting the fairings back on the first time I found it awkward at first however I have removed a refitted them a few times now and find it very easy and takes no longer than without the cages fitted.

Some photos:

Right Side:







Left Side:








Fairing Mod: - Same on both sides - Left side shown



Cheers

Paul

[Rhino]

Mine is a 2011,

First off, I did my research, read all the posts that I could find here and on COG and identified the problem areas such as bolt removal and refitting.

I also looked at the fairing mod posts as it made sense to me to be able to take the fairing off and put it on for servicing without having to remove the cages.

I decided before I purchased the Canyon Cages from MCE  that I would fit them with the fairings off, then mod the fairing and fit with the cages on the bike.

I used a breaker bar to crack the top bolts then a ratchet to remove them, they were very tight - I did not use any heat

I never had a problem aligning the bolts when bolting the cages on however I did spend some time cleaning each bolt hole thread very thoroughly, I did not use a thread tap as I could not get one locally, I used the blue loctite in case I had to remove them at some point in the future.

When fitting the fairings back on the first time I found it awkward at first however I have removed a refitted them a few times now and find it very easy and takes no longer than without the cages fitted.

Nice write up and pictures! Next time I have to take the plastic off I think I'll do this mod.

[Conrad]

Mine is a 2011,

First off, I did my research, read all the posts that I could find here and on COG and identified the problem areas such as bolt removal and refitting.

I also looked at the fairing mod posts as it made sense to me to be able to take the fairing off and put it on for servicing without having to remove the cages.

I decided before I purchased the Canyon Cages from MCE  that I would fit them with the fairings off, then mod the fairing and fit with the cages on the bike.

I used a breaker bar to crack the top bolts then a ratchet to remove them, they were very tight - I did not use any heat

I never had a problem aligning the bolts when bolting the cages on however I did spend some time cleaning each bolt hole thread very thoroughly, I did not use a thread tap as I could not get one locally, I used the blue loctite in case I had to remove them at some point in the future.

When fitting the fairings back on the first time I found it awkward at first however I have removed a refitted them a few times now and find it very easy and takes no longer than without the cages fitted.

Cheers

Paul

Well done Paul. Isn't your coolant a bit low?   

[Highett]

Well done Paul. Isn't your coolant a bit low?

Conrad,

The fluid is in the lower part between the indicator lines on the fluid bottle, I think it is better with the fluid level being a bit lower in the hot weather.

I had a wildlife incident on a overnight trip last year and the bike was in for repairs,  the photo you refer to was taken the day after I picked the bike up from the repair when I fitted the canyon cages, the radiator had been replaced along with most of the plastic and the bike serviced so the fluid level was OK, I went on a 9,000km ride the following week with temperatures as high as 50c without problem, with the bike serviced again when I returned, the bike shop reported no problem with the coolant levels.







Cheers

Paul

[Conrad]

Conrad,

The fluid is in the lower part between the indicator lines on the fluid bottle, I think it is better with the fluid level being a bit lower in the hot weather.

I had a wildlife incident on a overnight trip last year and the bike was in for repairs,  the photo you refer to was taken the day after I picked the bike up from the repair when I fitted the canyon cages, the radiator had been replaced along with most of the plastic and the bike serviced so the fluid level was OK, I went on a 9,000km ride the following week with temperatures as high as 50c without problem, with the bike serviced again when I returned, the bike shop reported no problem with the coolant levels.

Cheers

Paul

I never noticed it before but it would appear that the coolant bottle is a little different on the gen 2 bikes. Either that or my CRS is kicking in, again.   

[udoggie]

For what it's worth, I installed mine on my 2012 C14 this evening.

I was quite concerned about the reports of red locktite, but am pleased to report that I was able to get the bolts out of mine with a ~15 inch socket wrench.  It was tight, but I didn't need a breaker bar or anything other than using a bit of my extra poundage.

When I got them out, they each had about 3/8ths of an inch band of the red stuff.

Now, if I can figure out how to tighten the front suport bracket nylon bolts...  Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight is in order, to get a box-end ratchet...

Jeff

[TallyRex]

Harbor Freight tools are generally crap.  Go to Sears.  For the money you're spending on the Cages and considering the labor, the extra few bucks are worth it.

[Rhino]

Harbor Freight tools are generally crap.  Go to Sears.  For the money you're spending on the Cages and considering the labor, the extra few bucks are worth it.

+1 Craftsman ratcheting box end wrench made getting that front bolt on and off a piece of cake.

[maxtog]

+1 Craftsman ratcheting box end wrench made getting that front bolt on and off a piece of cake.

I wouldn't say it is cake- but it beats the HELL out of the alternative (a non-ratcheting one)!  Yes, the first time I installed was with a regular box-end.  OMG- it took forever.

[AZ1400GTR]

I know this is an old topic, but I am just getting around to installing these and I found that PB Blaster does a great job at eating away the red Kawi thread locker.  I sprayed it into the bolt holes from behind liberally a few times and let it penetrate and bolts broke loose wih no issue. Then I sprayed it into the holes and on the bolts and ran them in and out of the threads several times getting almost all of the thread locker out. Maybe this will work for someone else.  I didn't want to go buy the tap to chase the threads.

[maxtog]

I know this is an old topic,

Old topics are often the best ones!

but I am just getting around to installing these and I found that PB Blaster does a great job at eating away the red Kawi thread locker.  I sprayed it into the bolt holes from behind

I can't recall being able to get behind the engine bolts, but it has been a while since I did it and I have a really poor memory

[Rhino]

I know this is an old topic, but I am just getting around to installing these and I found that PB Blaster does a great job at eating away the red Kawi thread locker.  I sprayed it into the bolt holes from behind liberally a few times and let it penetrate and bolts broke loose wih no issue. Then I sprayed it into the holes and on the bolts and ran them in and out of the threads several times getting almost all of the thread locker out. Maybe this will work for someone else.  I didn't want to go buy the tap to chase the threads.

Welcome to the forum!