Hi all my new 88 GTR is almost ready...i bought her in final january and since then the process of bring her back to the road began, today was the first test ride and tomorrow she will be back on the road...how what a surprise this bike is for me...never thought that engine will be like this. It's perfect 

I will let were the link for my google album where you can check some pics that i take during the process and a short video after the carbs are tunned.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102586692592850177872/albums/5975153411717057793

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202444832014585&set=vb.1007595805&type=2&theater

Nice pics and nice workshop.

Old Langskip....?   

Nice pics and nice workshop.

Old Langskip....?   

Thanks gPink ... yes Old Langskip ... because I'm the founder of a Club call VIKING RAVENS ;-) that's why I choose this nickname for her 

In the pictures I noticed the newer style cam chain tensioner (CCT).  I'm not sure of the year they switched the tensioning parts but think it was at least a few years after '88.  Do you know if someone changed the chain guides and put the new style CCT in there?  The old style was a twisting plunger with a mushroom end and the new style is a ratchet type as you have pictured.  As far as I have read the CCTs are not compatible with the different guide.  You can't just "upgrade" to the newer one (although some of us consider it a down-grade).

Just concerned for you, that's all.  If it sounds right, you're probably good.  Maybe someone else will verify this for me.

In the pictures I noticed the newer style cam chain tensioner (CCT).  I'm not sure of the year they switched the tensioning parts but think it was at least a few years after '88.  Do you know if someone changed the chain guides and put the new style CCT in there?  The old style was a twisting plunger with a mushroom end and the new style is a ratchet type as you have pictured.  As far as I have read the CCTs are not compatible with the different guide.  You can't just "upgrade" to the newer one (although some of us consider it a down-grade).

Just concerned for you, that's all.  If it sounds right, you're probably good.  Maybe someone else will verify this for me.

already thanks for the concern and warning. As you can see in the photos the tensioner was reinforced with a sleeve because the problem is that the tensioner is made of aluminum and the bumps eventually crack, now there is no such danger. All the preparation of my bike was taken by a friend of mine who is a mechanic and already has many years of experience, and know this engine well as had a 1000RX among other Kawas of these years. Was completed today and the engine became a spectacle, was a huge surprise to me that I never imagined that this engine was at this level. Sure was tuned by a master who raised him to another level.

she's back on the road  it's a great surprise for me and I'm loving it ever bit 



I fill up the gas tank at 49K and now i will see how the fuel consumption is... just one number, riding at 120 km/h she makes 4000 rpm...what did you think about this ??

Bike looks very good.
You did a good job.
The rpms seem low to me for that speed.
But, I am not used to KPH and will have to do some checking.

Ride safe, Ted

I'm not good at those either, and yes, that bike looks great!  As long as you are in 6th gear going down the highway and nothing is slipping, the rpms are correct (and most-likely nothing is slipping).  This engine likes the higher rpms to stay smooth and have the HP.  Most new riders to this bike are at first concerned about the rpms until they realize it is normal.  It kind of keeps you near the HP and TQ increase area with a quick twist of the throttle and a gear drop.  There's a Ninja trapped in there!

Oh yeah, watch out for the top-heavyness of this bike.  She will want to take you down in a heartbeat if you do something wrong at a walking speed.  Most mistakes occur while parking or moving it in the garage - BEWARE!

+1 on the top heavy. The CDA column for not there just for looks. Hope to not see you in it.

Rpm vs Speed is correct.
It may seem a little high and because of that you will often be trying to find 7th gear. <LOL>

Welcome to the GTR1000. At 49,000Km it is nearly new, although already 26 years old. 

Mine is a 1989 with 176,000 miles (281,000Km) and still starts well and runs Ok.

Hi all, sorry for the long absence, but you now summer time is on the road...now still on the road everyday but with rain, so I have a little more time to stay at home in the night 

Well from my last post there was nothing wrong with this fantastic peace of art ... only put a new battery and change a bad OEM part for a new handmade one  and add almost 10k on it 

I'll let some pics from the last months... Regards and see you on the road.

Very pretty machine,  is that new plug made from Brass?
It looks cool, but I don't recommend using anything brass that threads into aluminum, the galvanic response between the disimilar metals will virtually eat the threads, and you may end up needing to replace the housing in short order... just a warning...

MOB, I haven't thought about tis in a while, and your an engineer.
But, the original caps were aluminum.
I would think the galvanic corrosion would be more with aluminum and less if he uses brass?
Plus, the threads are below the O ring and will have oil on them...

Ride safe, Ted

This helps explain it...

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

It's potentially bad over a period of time (especially with road salt).

Not much potential there for a voltage difference (pun intended). This is really only a problem in a natural environment when metals are in direct contact and with an ionic solution.... the most common one of those being salt water. Yep, ocean water absolutely eats dissimilar metals, with the more reactionary losing every single time.

But not much of a problem on a road vehicle that is not sitting in the ocean. Or at least not for a LONG time :-)

Brian

This helps explain it...

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

It's potentially bad over a period of time (especially with road salt).

ok..
try this rationalization..
I ride often in the rain. Also on wet roads.
Byproducts of automobile exhaust on city streets, virtually bathes everything with acidic residue.
Sea water wasn't what i was hinting at.

jmho/ymmv

Sea water wasn't what i was hinting at.

Me either.  But that plug sure looks nice.

Ok, I think we're over evaluating these.
It ain't gonna be a problem!
If he polishes/and seals the outer portion of his plugs with clear paint,,,, it will be fine.
If he polishes/and doesn't seal the outer portion of his plugs with clear paint,,,, he'll have to polish it regularly to keep it shiny..

Explanation:
I have a 1912 Model T Ford. (The early T's are generally referred to as a Brass T because of all the brass they have on them).

Mine has brass headlights, radiator, windshield frame, running lights, tail light, steering when, horn, hub caps, etc etc etc...
It' is now 102 years old and the brass (which is mostly thin brass sheet) has not corroded away.
The brass corrodes, not the steel it is attached to...

Now, I admit it's a real PITA polishing all of that brass when we take it out,,, but it ain't a big corrosion problem for the overall car...

Ride safe, Ted

Hi  thanks for all the replies.. I not a guy that understand much about mechanic or engineering, I trust 100% on my old friend and mechanic, this part was handmade by a another old friend with lots of experience on fabrication and the brass used is for aeronautic parts, so I think is top quality. Well for now is still all in good shape, done the regular maintenance last week and it's all ok and without signs of problems. Also put new front tire - Battlax T30 









More I ride it the more I like it...Fantastic Bike 

Nothing wrong with shiny brass bits.....