Which are the best fork springs??

[nevadazx12]

I am considering changing the springs and other items in my front end.  Which springs seem to work best for the Connie, the Sonics or the Race Tech units??  I was also planning to add emulators.

thanks,

[Gitbox]

Anxiously awaiting responses also. I am about to do exactly the same thing. :-)

[Roadhound]

I think you will be happy with whichever brand you choose. I run the Racetech springs, many use the Sonic springs. The important thing is to make sure you get the proper spring rate for your weight and the way you ride. The 1.1 and 1.2 spring rates are not necessarily better, unless your weight and riding style calls for them. I run the Racetech 1.0 springs with Emulators and have been well pleased with the results.

[jeffrey van donselaar]

I personally run the racetech 1.1, and emulators. I drilled extra holes in the emulator, (as mentioned here), and I am pretty happy with the front end. It is a little firm, but I kind of like it..... I could still go ahead and adjust it, but I have not felt inclined enough to do so. I am also running 15 wt oil. ( I weigh 250 on a good day)  ( okay, maybe 255 )

[nevadazx12]

The thing that I noticed was that the Race techs are rated as 1.0 for my weight (200) and the Sonics are 1.1.  Was wondering how they compared.  Has anyone tried both??  My commute when I ride it is a mountain road, not the smoothest, so I would need something that would absorb the bumps nicely, but give me the confidence to hits the corners harder.

[enim57]

The thing that I noticed was that the Race techs are rated as 1.0 for my weight (200) and the Sonics are 1.1.  Was wondering how they compared.  Has anyone tried both??  My commute when I ride it is a mountain road, not the smoothest, so I would need something that would absorb the bumps nicely, but give me the confidence to hits the corners harder.

We are similar in some respects.
I weigh 204lbs, my bike is an '86, and I live in an area with twisty bumpy roads.
I have fitted Racetech 1.0 springs, emulators with 2 turns preload, and 15wt oil. I find this very good but I do like a firmish ride. My riding is spirited with toes dragging and 3/8" chicken strips on tyres. I have a Wilbers unit on the rear and therefore the bike does not squat as much in corners as those with stock suspension.
Upgrade the front and you will corner harder and more confidently, but you will also realise how poor the rear is.

Regards, Russell

[nevadazx12]

Well guys, got my parts today from Race Tech.  What length spacer tube did you end up with.  Also in the instructions they had you drill your damping rods with extra holes ( for rebound).  Did you also do that step too?  Where did you place the extra holes, in line with the other? 

thanks

[enim57]

Well guys, got my parts today from Race Tech.  What length spacer tube did you end up with.  Also in the instructions they had you drill your damping rods with extra holes ( for rebound).  Did you also do that step too?  Where did you place the extra holes, in line with the other? 

I fitted mine years ago and the emulator came with one hole (I think) and have not drilled any more. I cut the spacer to 175mm long which gives 35mm preload, it is hard to refit the fork cap with this preload but it works well. You won't need to put air in the forks with this setup.

Regards, Russell

[nevadazx12]

Russell.

Not talking about emulators, in the instruction they are having you drill holes in the damping rods, adding 3 set of 2 holes.  After I take everything apart I guess I will have to call them for clarification. 

thanks,

gg

[Strawboss]

You need to get a Kawasaki or a Clymers manual, preferably both. You will be taking off the forks completely from the bike and separating them, top from sliding unit, you will be removing the damping rod which takes a bit of finesse, you will be making two holes through the damper rod from two different axis. All this is included in the instructions, not hard, but easier when you see pics. It took me awhile, but I took my time. I'm 205lbs, run the .95's and 7.5 wt. oil, I live in NE OH and enjoy a bit of a smoother ride over the atrocious pot holes and frost heaves. Good luck. 

[enim57]

Russell.

Not talking about emulators, in the instruction they are having you drill holes in the damping rods, adding 3 set of 2 holes.  After I take everything apart I guess I will have to call them for clarification. 

thanks,

gg

Sorry, didn't read your previous post well enough.
The standard damper rod has has four 5.5mm holes in it which controls compression damping. As the emulator is to be the only control for compression damping the existing holes are to be drilled out to 8mm (5/16") plus two more holes are to be drilled in it also giving a total of 6 holes all 8mm. This means the damper rod has no effect on compression damping and it is now entirely controlled by the emulator. This must be done to the damper rod in both forks.
Drilling these holes has no effect on rebound damping which is controlled by other means.

I hope this makes sense along with Racetechs instructions, if not come back and I'll try better.

Regards, Russell

[George R. Young]

emulator write-up
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/forkUpgrade.htm

[nevadazx12]

Tore the front end apart yesterday.  I had rebuilt it when I first got the bike so I had made a tool to hold the dampening rod while you undid the bolt from the bottom of the fork leg.  Drilled and debured the dampening rod.  Drilled the extra holes in the emulators disks, did the 2 turns preload and put it together.  I ended up with a 6 1/8 inch spacer and the required level of oil was 150mm from the top (came out to 14.5 OZ) .  Took it for a ride today, can only say one thing  WOW  What a difference, great on the bumps, noticed it handled much more predictable, seemed to go faster than before.  Even scraped my foot on one of the turns.    For my weight I used .95kg springs, emulators, blue springs (which come with that kit)  Ordered a set separately cause I didn't know they did and 15 wt oil from Racetech.  Real great mod, now what to do about the rear cause it feels different, kind of hard and unresponsive.

[George R. Young]

rear upgrade write-up:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/shock.htm

[enim57]

Real great mod, now what to do about the rear cause it feels different, kind of hard and unresponsive.

Yeah it's a great mod, no comparison really between old and new - chalk and cheese. Glad you like it.
You really can't make the stock rear shock good, heavier oil helps but still not good. The only option is replacement, either an after market or the ZZR. The later being more economical. After doing that you will have a bike that handles as it should and safer. It won't be a sports bike but will be a pleasure.

Regards, Russell

[nevadazx12]

Bought a ZZR1200 shock off e-bay the other day after my ride.  Even came with the linkage, so I will have some extra parts.  Can hardly wait to install and try it out.  Delayed shipping because of this long holiday weekend.

Already had a super fast and great handling bike, but for my type of riding and the riding position I prefer, the Connie is much nicer.

[Gitbox]

I'm waiting on the sleeve to do the same upgrade. I just got the shock.