I'm on the fence for an accessory block

[bbroj]

There is also an unused position on the Jbox, position 8 I believe, that is swithched. I used that to trigger my fuse block. A standard female blade type connector works, and I slipped it right through the Jbox connector. It's the only position unused from the factory, so it's easy to locate.

[mlf73]

Cool.....  Thanks guys!

[Tele130]

There is also an unused position on the Jbox, position 8 I believe, that is swithched. I used that to trigger my fuse block. A standard female blade type connector works, and I slipped it right through the Jbox connector. It's the only position unused from the factory, so it's easy to locate.

Thanks for the info on that.   What gauge wire would is best sutied for connecting the new fuse block to the "J"-box?

[Tele130]

Tele130, to your first question .... IMHO the alleged "plug-and-play" aux fuse block solution is only simpler to the extent that the included instructions are thorough, explicit and specific to your machine's wiring.  I've not seen Murph's kit so can't comment about it.  The FuzeBlock brand instructions are good but are not specific to the Connie and require some basic grasp of 12 volt wiring concepts.  The FuzeBlock is simple in that the relay is integrated and the unit gives a choice of switched or un-switched on any circuit without re-wiring.  Some may (rightly) argue that the integrated relay does not lend to easy replacement if it fails.

As in most engineering, the is no absolute one-best-answer ... finding the best compromises for your case is the trick 

Thanks for clearing that up for me.   Murph now carries the FuzeBlock "FZ1".
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=436

[Tele130]

There is also an unused position on the Jbox, position 8 I believe, that is swithched. I used that to trigger my fuse block. A standard female blade type connector works, and I slipped it right through the Jbox connector. It's the only position unused from the factory, so it's easy to locate.

So then?,...........................that would make the entire added fuse block "Switchable" no matter what you had hooked up?

[T Cro ®]

Thanks for the info on that.   What gauge wire would is best suited for connecting the new fuse block to the "J"-box?

You are not connecting the fuse block to the j-box you are connecting the trigger wire for the relay that in turn powers the fuse block; thus you can use fairly small wire in that all it ever does is pull in a tiny coil with that being said 18 gauge would be fine but as for myself I never use nothing smaller than 16 gauge as wire smaller than 16 gauge tends to be physically weak and breaks fairly easy. As to the size of the power wire being run from the battery to supply the power to the fuse panel you need to size it according to how much current it was designed to handle; 30 amp would require a 10 gauge wire.

[kzz1king]

So then?,...........................that would make the entire added fuse block "Switchable" no matter what you had hooked up?

Yep, the relay is triggered on and transfers the power to the fuse block and everything hooked to it. Think of the relay as a switch, the main breaker, and the block is the individual breakers. Thankfully I am better at doing it than writing directions!
Wayne

[bbroj]

So then?,...........................that would make the entire added fuse block "Switchable" no matter what you had hooked up?

Sorry I've been away, but others have answered as I would have. Yes, the entire fuse block would be switched. The stuff I wanted to keep "hot" was minimal, so I used the accessory wires that Connie already provided. 1 set under the seat, the other behind the left fairing pocket.