Pros & Cons on 5w30 oil

[timsatx]

I have never had any problems on any of my bikes (1992 750 Nighthawk and 2002 Connie) using standard automotive oil, either dino or synthetic, that had energy conserving on label.  Of course I don't drag race and maybe that is where I would see the problem.

[Gitbox]

Oh well, I guess I'll throw in...

Every oil I have tried makes my bike shift like butter at first but then gets notchy after a few hundred miles. The only oil that shifts like butter until the next oil change is Mobil 1 5w-40 Synthetic Turbo Deisel Truck. I figure whatever the others oils stop doing, this oil keeps on doing so I'm sticking with it.

Anyway, that's my experience.

[timsatx]

I completely agree on the notchy stuff. I might have to give that oil a try.

[T Cro ®]

I completely agree on the notchy stuff. I might have to give that oil a try.

I've run Mobil 1 15W50 Full Synthetic Oil year round for years and I find that the shifting remains smooth from oil change to oil change...

[Mettler1]

 
    TCro doesn't know Jack S**t about oil or much of anything else but he does keep Corona beer in the fridge!! 

[Cholla]

I have never had any problems on any of my bikes (1992 750 Nighthawk and 2002 Connie) using standard automotive oil, either dino or synthetic, that had energy conserving on label.  Of course I don't drag race and maybe that is where I would see the problem.

So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.

[enim57]

So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.

When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.

I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.

Regards, Russell

[T Cro ®]

    TCro doesn't know Jack S**t about oil or much of anything else but he does keep Corona beer in the fridge!! 

As well as Oberon, Round Barn, Green Bush, Stella, and Bud Light for a friend.

[Cholla]

When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.

I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.

Regards, Russell

Russell, 50 wt meets specs. The post I quoted stated "energy conserving" oil. By and large, energy conserving oils are 10W30 or THINNER.

[Mettler1]

As well as Oberon, Round Barn, Green Bush, Stella, and Bud Light for a friend.

    Round Barn?  What is it brewed from and is the flavor best when served warm?
  Is it better than 10W40? In keeping with the theme of this thread. 

[enim57]

Russell, 50 wt meets specs. The post I quoted stated "energy conserving" oil. By and large, energy conserving oils are 10W30 or THINNER.

You're right. I've never bothered to read the workshop manual about this before as I've always used oil with the highest and lowest range I could find. The manual specifies 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50.
I wouldn't use a 30wt oil although back in the really "olden" days straight 30wt was all that was used, and still is in stationary engines. Also in the past modifiers were added to make "friction modified" oil (proven to be bad for wet clutches) but I don't know if it is still done. Maybe "energy conserving" is thinner oil and "friction modified" is thicker oil with a slippery substance added.

Regards, Russell

[Cholla]

Rule of thumb- anything with the high number under 40 is a friction modifier oil-has added moly which will coat wet clutch plates.
Example:
10W30-energy conserving.
10W40-ok.
I understand there are a few brands of 10W40 with the added moly that do not have the energy conserving "starburst" on the label.

[MAN OF BLUES]

When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.

I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.

Regards, Russell

Sunoco and Arco were both selling 20w-50 in 1975....I used a lot of it.

[enim57]

Sunoco and Arco were both selling 20w-50 in 1975....I used a lot of it.

Yep already acknowleged that I was wrong. See my post (No 50) above.

Regards, Russell

[Furbo]

I guess I'm missing out on something with all these high end oils...

I run whatever SAE certified 10/40 dino I can get (usually Penziol) and change it once a year - (8-10K miles).

As an Air Cooled VW enthusiast, I find the fact that the oil remains IN THE ENGINE on the Connie a refreshing novelty and dont think about it other than that one cold evening per year when I change it...

[enim57]

I guess I'm missing out on something with all these high end oils...

I run whatever SAE certified 10/40 dino I can get (usually Penziol) and change it once a year - (8-10K miles).

As an Air Cooled VW enthusiast, I find the fact that the oil remains IN THE ENGINE on the Connie a refreshing novelty and dont think about it other than that one cold evening per year when I change it...

Yes I understand that. In my last job oil from industrial machinery (admittedly not engines) was analysed reguarly and it lasted a whole lot longer than most expected. I know of people who rarely changed oil in their cars which were used every day and the cars ran for decades without problem. My wifes diesel car oil change interval is yearly or 15000km.

We are probably a bit too precious with our toys.

Regards, Russell

[Nosmo]

My 1990 Toyota 4x4 truck has 360,000 miles on it.  I changed the Castrol straight 30wt every 3,000 miles. 

There's two ways to figure this:

1)  I spent a lot of money on oil, but the engine is still strong and runs great.  It will burn about 1 quart every 1,000 miles but so what?

2)  I probably could have never changed the oil, and by now the engine would be shot and I could have put that same amount of money into a long block, and I'd have a new engine.

Personally I'd rather change oil than engines.

[julianop]

OK, I'll add my own experience to this thread-that-will-not-die.
I just changed out some Rotella T6 5Wsomething - you know, the diesel stuff. I put in Royal Purple 10W40

Oh my flippin' gawd !!

It's beautiful.

OK, so I didn't listen clearly enough to the "5W is too thin" admonitions, but it was fine for a while, getting a bit difficult in changes eventually, and just a little roughness at higher speed/torque that just didn't seem right. So probably the step up to 10W (duh!) is probably a strong component, and an oil change to anything fresh is going to be good, but after putting in three bottles of purple in Minnesota, then driving the 360 miles to Rockford that stuff has got itself everywhere it needs to be. Damn, it's so good I'm thinking of trying it out on the wife next time ...

Changes are smoother, pulling away is smooth and spritely (I don't even want to know what I was doing to my gears with the other stuff  - this is like an engine recon), and she is smoother than I ever remember (the Connie, that is, not the wife). I find myself at 75 before I even know it.

I'll try some Mobile one next time, but I'm going to be hard to convince that this Royal Purple simply isn't the best. It's the same price in my local store ($10.99 a quart).

[sherob]

Any decent synth will be buttery smooth... I've never had issues w/ Mobil1 MC oil, Mobil1 Auto oil, Motul MC oil, Castrol Auto oil, Kawasaki MC oil.  I'm sure any of those will run just as good as RP, scAmsoil.

I've run scAmsoil Auto oil(a case free to me!), no different than any of the above synth's.

But my MC's FAVORITE is....

[SteveJ.]

I'm currently waiting for a report from Blackstone Lab on Rotella 15W40 dyno oil that ran for 6500 miles. I sampled at 4k mi and it was still good, viscosity, additives, wear issues.


My favorite oil: