Shift @ 4k = mild
Shift @ 6k = fun
Shift @ 8k = wild
JMHO
Shift @ 4k = mild
Shift @ 6k = fun
Shift @ 8k = wild
+1, with the adder that the oil pressure on the C10 starts dropping off under 3k, so in anything above 1st gear, it is best to not let the revs drop below that number, at least not with a large throttle opening. Have fun!+ 2 on both the above posts. I came from an 1100 Shadow ACE T and let me tell you, going from a v-twin to an I-4 is a big big change. Learn to love the revs, because your engine does. The Conc isn't a twin. Let it wring out a little bit. I tell you, I spend a good deal of time now north of 5000-6000 RPM. It's like going from a pickup truck to an Indy car. Let the thing run. As stated, keep the revs above 3k so there is good oil pressure. I have a manual Chevy Blazer that I shift at 1400 to conserve fuel. DON'T DO THAT WITH THIS BIKE. Rev it up a let it sing. Shift at 4k every time. Maybe once or twice let it head up to 9k+ and shift high and fast just to see what it feels like.
Shift @ 4k = mild+2 - Yup - I moved from a Yamaha V-Star to a 2003 Connie about 6 weeks ago. Have been moving my shift points up a little higher in the revs every week. Now run to 8k on occasion (when there is enough open space! ). 4k minimum took a bit to get used to as the Star had a 6k redline...
Shift @ 6k = fun
Shift @ 8k = wild
JMHO
And lugging the engine is hard on the u-joint.
BTW-just because an engine is a v twin doesn't mean they don't like to rev and all the toorque is down low. Know your engine's characteristiscs.
The OP asks a good question!
u joint? my joint or your joint? what joint we talking about?
Ive only hit the limiter once on the Connie...
On a C-10? I thought they revved until the valves bouncedYup, at 9k the power drops off so it would be better to shift no higher than ~9k. On the low end , I can tool around at 2 to 2.5k but that is with custom cams and 2 minute mod (1052 kit, 4 into one exhaust and on and on). Pure stock Connies loose much of their grunt below 4k.
On a C-10? I thought they revved until the valves bounced
+ 2 on both the above posts. I came from an 1100 Shadow ACE T and let me tell you, going from a v-twin to an I-4 is a big big change. Learn to love the revs, because your engine does. The Conc isn't a twin. Let it wring out a little bit. I tell you, I spend a good deal of time now north of 5000-6000 RPM. It's like going from a pickup truck to an Indy car. Let the thing run. As stated, keep the revs above 3k so there is good oil pressure. I have a manual Chevy Blazer that I shift at 1400 to conserve fuel. DON'T DO THAT WITH THIS BIKE. Rev it up a let it sing. Shift at 4k every time. Maybe once or twice let it head up to 9k+ and shift high and fast just to see what it feels like.I just had the exhaust valves replaced during a recent valve job and now the bike idles real smooth down around 1200-1500. New to this feeling after owning a 2001 Connie for just a second year. What is the downside of running at lower revs? I am riding around 3700-4000 maybe at 65-70 on the freeway for most of my driving.
+1, with the adder that the oil pressure on the C10 starts dropping off under 3k, so in anything above 1st gear, it is best to not let the revs drop below that number, at least not with a large throttle opening. Have fun!
On a C-10? I thought they revved until the valves bounced
I came close to this on the third day I had this bike. Went to downshift to merge onto a highway and accidentally went into 1st! Tach went straight to 10.5k and made a BOING sound. I had snapped the clutch back in so it didn't pass the redline, but whew that scared the heck outta me!
Done 32k since, no issues, and I've been very careful about downshifting ever since!