Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: So Cal Joe on April 02, 2012, 07:31:02 PM
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I found this on Amazon. Anyone have one of these. 130 db should be louder than stock and the price is right. I just can't find the amps they draw.
http://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72102-Term-Universal-Bracket/dp/B000FKKOK6/ref=pd_rhf_ee_shvl2 (http://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72102-Term-Universal-Bracket/dp/B000FKKOK6/ref=pd_rhf_ee_shvl2)
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Fiamm horns are very loud and have a great tone. Every Italian car I've ever owned had them. It shouldn't draw any more amps than OEM horn. It is just a matter of finding a convenient place for it.
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I have that same horn 'cept it's the low note. One day I may even get it installed. The low note draws ~6.5 amps on the bench.
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I installed the Low note version of that horn in the stock position. It takes a little inginuity and you have to be careful of the radiator, but it's doable.
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I have that same horn 'cept it's the low note. One day I may even get it installed. The low note draws ~6.5 amps on the bench.
Sounds like a loud Bench !
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Sounds like a loud Bench !
It was! It even scared all the mice out of the garage.
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I have these on my 04, ZZR1200 and 03, BMW K1200GT (sold), just got them for my 2011 C14. LOVE THEM! Loud, sweet sound, light weight and like you said priced right! I always get the low and high tone with an Eastern Beaver relay / dual horn wire harness (Jim is a great guy, makes the best stuff). On all but the C14 the install has been underneath near the radiator. Hidden, but sound is unblocked, looks clean, sturdy and easy enough to DIY. On the C14, there is not enough room there, did not want to do any 'Fred Cuts', thought about between the main side fairings one on each side (where frame sliders bolt on) but the headers are there and the horns are plastic, plus this location might somewhat diminish the full 139DB. At first I did not like this idea but for the sake of simplicity, here's what I did (see pics). Still have to get them wired but that should not be too hard. I always take off the front and rear reflectors, bored out the hole a bit on the front. The horns are small enough to make for a decent fit and don't weigh a lot. I was going to do aux lights there but if I need more illumination at some point, I'll go HID although I did get the 25 LED T10's for the running lights. Have not popped those in yet. I'll think I'll point the horns more downward for wet weather.
Oh - got a bee in my helmet today - PAINFULL! Left temple - he went for the kill shot. Just had to let him do his damage until I could stop safely and pull my hat off. Could not get him out so I had to ride home with no helmet for about a mile. Face swells up like a balloon, will be good show and tell at work tomorrow!
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Fiamm horns are very loud and have a great tone. Every Italian car I've ever owned had them. It shouldn't draw any more amps than OEM horn. It is just a matter of finding a convenient place for it.
I don't have any specific information in front of me, but I'm quite sure they draw more than the stock horn. I put them (the high & low) on my FJR and was very happy with them. But I did use a relay to draw enough power from the battery.
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RYDBABY, I like how you mounted them. Looks good.
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Thanks but I wired them up Friday night and they went "bomp" instead of "BLATTT". I tested them on my ZZR, they were fine, so I thought they were not getting enough power, maybe wired them up wrong (that can't really happen with an Eastern Beaver harness). A day went by, was removing them took them off of the mounts, accidently pressed the horn button and they SCREAMED! Thought it was a ground issue but I had reached out for help and a wise man told me the Fiamms cannot be on a solid mount, they have to be able to vibrate, that's why they give you those thin mount plates. Maybe if I read the directions. Anyway, re-mounted them where the old horn was by using the old mount bracket and the supplied mount plates. Took some adjusting but I have a 4 inch clearance from the fender, the C14 is 4.4 travel. If they ever hit, they will easily bend up. They clear the radiator and there is ample room for air circulation. They look clean under there, they are LOUD, front facing, hidden from view and the elements, no cuts, no 'in fairing' worries. I'm actually much happier with this location for the horns since that's where I have always installed them on my bikes.
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Attached is the FIAMM PDF with all the horn AMP ratings as well as the DB ratings ;-)
http://www.fiamm.com/media/documents/09Catalog.pdf (http://www.fiamm.com/media/documents/09Catalog.pdf)
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Attached is the FIAMM PDF with all the horn AMP ratings as well as the DB ratings ;-)
http://www.fiamm.com/media/documents/09Catalog.pdf (http://www.fiamm.com/media/documents/09Catalog.pdf)
Thanks for posting that, it was very helpful.
I've hated the stock C14 horn since the first time I pushed the horn button and had to ask myself "was that really the horn??". That faint "meeep meeeeeeeeeep" sound is pretty lame.
Looking at the trumpet horns in the link from the OP, I'm hesitant about going through the mounting hassles.
I looked through the PDF from the previous link, and found the one in the OP, but then went to the next page, and found the HK-9 Vibrator Series, specifically the 4031023 “C” High Note. It's dimensions look very close to the stock one, it's spec'd at only 4 amps, and it's boasting the same 130dB rating as the trumpet style.
I searched around for somebody selling these, and so far only found this link : http://www.streetperformance.com/part/fiamm/6348816-4031023.html (http://www.streetperformance.com/part/fiamm/6348816-4031023.html)
Has anyone tried this one? Anyone know anyone that's tried this one? Anyone know anywhere else this particular one can be found? The HK-9 series has several 24V to 48V models as well, so that adds to the confusion when searching for them.
*****
Update : robert.h.weinstein pointed me to the Pep Boys site (not sure why Google didn't do that) : http://static.pepboys.com/product/details/1235410/ (http://static.pepboys.com/product/details/1235410/). It's listed at $16.99, regular price. Too bad they're showing the nearest store at 111 miles from me.
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I put these on my Voyager, but don't think I could fit them on the Concours.
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/twowheeladdict/2010%20Voyager%201700/Dual139DbHorns001.jpg)
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If you mount those trumpet horns on your bike make sure the horns are facing down or back because water will ruin them. I have found that basic electric horns tend to have the best longevity.
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Thanks for posting that, it was very helpful.
I've hated the stock C14 horn since the first time I pushed the horn button and had to ask myself "was that really the horn??". That faint "meeep meeeeeeeeeep" sound is pretty lame.
Looking at the trumpet horns in the link from the OP, I'm hesitant about going through the mounting hassles.
I looked through the PDF from the previous link, and found the one in the OP, but then went to the next page, and found the HK-9 Vibrator Series, specifically the 4031023 “C” High Note. It's dimensions look very close to the stock one, it's spec'd at only 4 amps, and it's boasting the same 130dB rating as the trumpet style.
I searched around for somebody selling these, and so far only found this link : http://www.streetperformance.com/part/fiamm/6348816-4031023.html (http://www.streetperformance.com/part/fiamm/6348816-4031023.html)
Has anyone tried this one? Anyone know anyone that's tried this one? Anyone know anywhere else this particular one can be found? The HK-9 series has several 24V to 48V models as well, so that adds to the confusion when searching for them.
*****
Update : robert.h.weinstein pointed me to the Pep Boys site (not sure why Google didn't do that) : http://static.pepboys.com/product/details/1235410/ (http://static.pepboys.com/product/details/1235410/). It's listed at $16.99, regular price. Too bad they're showing the nearest store at 111 miles from me.
So could this just "replace" the stock horn and use the factory circuitry? Thanks.
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2008 - 2009 taken from Source Post: Post http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8002.msg96716#msg96716 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8002.msg96716#msg96716)
Kawaski Concours Years 2008 - 2009
Fuse box 1 (midway)
1 - KIPASS Signal Relay - 10A
2 - Oxygen Sensor Heater - 15A
3 - KIPASS - 10A
4 - Electric Windshield - 30A
5 - Accessory - 10A
Fuse box 2 (towards the back of the bike)
1 - Fan - 15A
2 - ECU - 15A
3 - ABS Motor Relay - 30A
4 - ABS Solenoid Valve Relay - 20A
5 - ABS ECU - 10A
6 - Ignition - 10A
Fuse box 3 (towards front of bike)
1 - Turn Signal Relay - 10A
2 - Headlight - 10A
3 - Taillight - 10A
4 - Horn - 10A
5 - Headlight (HI) - 15A
6 - Headlight (LO) - 15A
Relay Box
1 - Fan
2 - Headlight
3 - Main
4 - Fuel Pump
5 - Starter Circuit
Kawasaki Concours Years 2010-2012
(SOURCE: schematic in back of Kawasaki Service Manual) Part No. 99924.1431-03
--------------------------------
For K-ACT ABS Equipped Models
--------------------------------
Relay Box
1 - Fan Relay
2 - Headlight Circuit Relay
3 - Unused
4 - Fuel Pump Relay
5 - Starter Circuit Relay
Fuse box 1 (towards front of bike)
1 - Turn Signal Relay Fuse - 10A
2 - Headlight Relay Fuse - 10A
3 - Taillight Fuse - 10A
4 - Horn Fuse - 10A
5 - Headlight Fuse (HI) - 15A
6 - Headlight Fuse (LO) - 15A
Fuse box 2 (towards the back of the bike)
1 - Fan Fuse - 15A
2 - ECU Fuse - 15A
3 - K-ACT ABS Motor Relay Fuse - 30A
4 - K-ACT ABS Solenoid Valve Relay Fuse - 20A
5 - Ignition Fuse - 15A
Fuse box 3 (midway)
1 - KIPASS Signal Relay Fuse - 10A
2 - Oil Control Solenoid Valve Fuse - 15A
3 - KIPASS Fuse - 10A
4 - Electric Windshield Fuse - 30A
5 - Accessory Fuse - 5A
6 - Grip Warmer Fuse - 10A
----------------------------------------------------
Differrence from above found with NON K-ACT ABS Equipped Models
was fuse box 2
----------------------------------------------------
Fuse box 2 (towards the back of the bike)
1 - Fan Fuse - 15A
2 - ECU Fuse - 15A
3 - Ignition Fuse - 15A
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Thanks! :thumbs:
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If the new horn is under 10A (2009) is it ok to just swap it out or does a relay need to be installed? thanks
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4 - Horn - 10A (for years from 2008 + ....) is the OEM fuse so the wiring OEM is designed for that
and as such is adquate for the OEM circuit.
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I decided to pick up a Big Boy which is the same as a Stebel Nautilus at Advance Auto and wired it in with a relay. Much louder and kept the stocker wired with it.
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What year is your Concours ?
I have a 2012 and cannot find anywere to hook up the Stebel horn as there appears to be no where
to hook it up. THe fairing is so congested there is no mounting points?
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If you use the Advanced Search next to Help above and type in horn using the C14 categories there will be multiple threads with photos. Looks like a few have used the lower left side/front on the 2010+ models. I have an 09 and mounted right side under the top black panel.
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I decided to pick up a Big Boy which is the same as a Stebel Nautilus at Advance Auto and wired it in with a relay. Much louder and kept the stocker wired with it.
I believe the Stebel has a higher Db rating but loud is loud.
You do have to be careful with the air horns to not get water in them that will vapor lock the compressor. They need to be in a protected location.
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Yes, you are indeed correct. It is the same design but a lower db and different frequency. I have no regrets with the Original Bad Boy, and I left the factory horn in place. Mine is fairly protected under the right fairing. Lots of options out there. For the 08-09 models this is a good instruction. HOWEVER, I could not use the ground location that they did. It would not work grounded to the mounting hole.
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/article/articleview/384/1/28/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/article/articleview/384/1/28/)
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I was thinking a little out of the box and found this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=827111&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50366&subdeptNum=50379&classNum=50380#.UG-6d4y3PMK (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=827111&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50366&subdeptNum=50379&classNum=50380#.UG-6d4y3PMK)
Its for boats and designed to mounted above deck. Should handle water well. 6a should be fine. Sounds like mounting is the big problem.
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Screaming Banshee split unit (aka http://screaming-banshee.com/banshee-horn-warning-system/full-split-screamer-black-version-2.html (http://screaming-banshee.com/banshee-horn-warning-system/full-split-screamer-black-version-2.html) )is what I settled for as they divide the Horn into two sections
MUCH easier to mount in hard places.
When you tap the horn you use the stock horn but when you hold the button for 1/4 to 1/2 second all Hell breaks loose!
I think that is the HEART Attack mode for Cagers.
139 DB horn goes off and the lights start pulsating OMGAWD! :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:
(http://screaming-banshee.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/split_screamer_black_-_with_control_unit.jpg)
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I had my 2011 only 4 days before I replaced that dippy horn for a Low Tone 132 db Fiamm that I had bought for my wife's previous car. It was so easy to change. No removal of body work was required. I used the bracket and removed the rubber gasket that came with the horn since the mounting screw is shorter than the OEM horn. I also have a high tone one and may try that to see if I like the difference. I am pleased with the Low Tone version now. I cannot remember what I paid for them at Pepboys, but I am sure it was around the subject price.
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Screaming Banshee split unit (aka http://screaming-banshee.com/banshee-horn-warning-system/full-split-screamer-black-version-2.html (http://screaming-banshee.com/banshee-horn-warning-system/full-split-screamer-black-version-2.html) )is what I settled for as they divide the Horn into two sections
MUCH easier to mount in hard places.
When you tap the horn you use the stock horn but when you hold the button for 1/4 to 1/2 second all Hell breaks loose!
I think that is the HEART Attack mode for Cagers.
139 DB horn goes off and the lights start pulsating OMGAWD! :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:
(http://screaming-banshee.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/split_screamer_black_-_with_control_unit.jpg)
This also flashes the high beam when the horn is pressed doesn't it?
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I had my 2011 only 4 days before I replaced that dippy horn for a Low Tone 132 db Fiamm that I had bought for my wife's previous car. It was so easy to change. No removal of body work was required. I used the bracket and removed the rubber gasket that came with the horn since the mounting screw is shorter than the OEM horn. I also have a high tone one and may try that to see if I like the difference. I am pleased with the Low Tone version now. I cannot remember what I paid for them at Pepboys, but I am sure it was around the subject price.
Does yours look like this?
(http://www.ridesafer.com/v/vspfiles/photos/H0012-2.jpg)
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556ALPHA
No mine is the STEBEL.
OBTW :
- When you add two horns of the same DB you have increased the total DB by 6 DB.
BUT if you add two disimilar DB based horns there is no increase beyond the one with the highest db.
If you already have a Stebel horn or a WOLO or a couple of Freeway blasters Low and High or whatever loud horn ....
and you want to add the Banshee effect they sell a separate "Banshee CONTROL UNIT" for 60 bucks you can use.
The CONTROL UNIT or the split kit comes with the 30 AMP relay built in. BTW
This just saves you buying the Wolo horn that comes with the complete kit.
You are aware you can separate the "Stebel horn" from it's compressor and just connect the two with a hose to get the same split system. Just add the "Banshee CONTROL UNIT" and your there.
I am adding other VISUAL SAFETY based items such as:
Google it by name:
- 3rd Brake Light Flasher (makes the Brake light Flash a few times before going solid everytime you hit the brakes)
- Headlight modulator (makes the headlight flash to create awareness to oncoming cagers)
- Clearwater LED's (Drivng awareness lights that are variable in intensity to make on comming cagers aware of your presence)
- Corbin Concours Seats ;-) because I have the touring disease called "NO_ASS_AT_ALL" :P
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Thanks for the info. I have Admore's in my E55 trunk that flash/turn signal and added some Mondo LED's on my reflector brackets up front. I had Clearwater Envy bout could not spring 485.00, however they are super nice. I am now considering adding the HID headlights since the LED's make my headlights look like a 49 Ford now. Sounds like you have some nice ideas going.
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Did you install the banshee? Can you put up some pics? I hate buying things reliant on fit from the net... hard to return. The system looks great. Is it as nice as the description?
Snype
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I keep getting lots of emails
I am not sure if anyone is replying to a post I made but if you are intending to refer to a post
For me to respond I require both the Post you are referring to and my Handle Name be in your post . ???
OR - Feel free to email me directly instead and avoid the confusion.
- Provide your return email or phone # and I can contact you directly by phone.
Forums are nice but a quick call is better. :D
I am a gmail person
I have lots of recomendations regarding flashing units, banshee units, LED units etc.
Robert :)