Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: ZG on September 10, 2012, 05:40:52 PM
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So I'm currently running heated Corbin front & rear, radar detector, gps, and heated grips.
I'm looking to get some Gerbings heated gear for this winter.
What is the best box (sorry if that's not what it's called)?? I think I've seen this one from Fuzeblock posted on here, is this the best option? If not what is? Please provide links too, thanks.
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ (http://www.fuzeblocks.com/)
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I don't have one, but have seen several posts of folks who love theirs.
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I've got this one on the shelf for winter work.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html)
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IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. There are some others that are very good as well, and less expensive. Take a look at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html) and http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml). The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.
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IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.
Is that wiring kit you mention included or extra? (Never mind on that question I see it's additional $)
What exactly is that for? Would I need that? :-\
Sorry if these are silly questions, I just honestly don't know so am trying to get educated... :)
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What exactly is that for? Would I need that? :-\
It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.
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It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.
Thanks brutha! :) :chugbeer:
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It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
Usually we wire the RED wire to the always-on 12V positive power (battery), and use the YELLOW for switched (on when running, accessory) 12V positive power.
UD
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If you're the DIY kid of guy (which I know you aren't), you can pick up a marine fuse block and a 30a waterproof relay for about $15.00 from Amazon. I'm not a huge fan of the Fuseblock FZ-1 because the relay is integrated. If the relay goes out, you basically throw away the unit and purchase another.
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Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.
Jose Soriano
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IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. There are some others that are very good as well, and less expensive. Take a look at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html) and http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml). The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.
+1
Only use it if "second best" won't suffice (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.
Jose Soriano
FUZEBLOCK<---switched or unswitched depends on the position of the fuse in each slot.
My Fuzeblock has been running my heated gear successfully for 62,000 miles in 2 years (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.
Jose Soriano
Most decent fuse blocks will handle ~ 20a per circuit, so it shouldn't be a problem if you wanted to. I agree though, it's not necessary for heated gear alone. A 10a - 15a inline fuse is all you really need.
In ZG's case, he has so many gadgets and accessories that it would behoove him to have a switched fuse block for some of it...
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I'm just using a standard auto relay from O'Rielly's and the inline fuses built into my accessories.
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Great comments and suggestions so far guys, much appreciated, please keep em coming.... :) :popcorn:
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Great comments and suggestions so far guys, much appreciated, please keep em coming.... :) :popcorn:
^^^^open invitation to post-ho!? (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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Usually we wire the RED wire to the always-on 12V positive power (battery), and use the YELLOW for switched (on when running, accessory) 12V positive power.
UD
There is really no difference, it is simply a color choice. In my younger days I worked for a car audio shop doing radio and alarm installs. The industry standard then was that yellow was constant and red was switched so I have always followed that practice.
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I've got this one on the shelf for winter work.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html)
+1 on the Eastern Beaver. Great company to deal with and outstanding product quality.
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It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.
I think it's 6 feet long (just to be clear, not nitpicken typos), and the the wire that goes to the switched source can be much smaller (22ga) as it just triggers the on board relay to connect the constant source, on FuzeBlock's website they mention that 18ga is more than sufficient for the switched (+VT) connection. The wiring kit is overpriced unless you are way out in the boonies, then maybe the convenience of having it on hand is worth it?
The Dispatch 1 (http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/dispatch-1/) looks really nice especially for heated gear, but the price($350-$399)...well for ZG's deep pockets it could work. :D
I guess if you deduct the cost of heat controllers the dispatch one seems better, but I don't have any heated gear yet so
I'm out of my zone of familiarity on that.
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The Dispatch 1 (http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/dispatch-1/) looks really nice especially for heated gear, but the price($350-$399)...well for ZG's deep pockets it could work. :D
I guess if you deduct the cost of heat controllers the dispatch one seems better, but I don't have any heated gear yet so
I'm out of my zone of familiarity on that.
I like the concept of that one FM but why did they have to make the graphic's of the controller look like something out of a Dr. Suess book?? :doublepuke:
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There is really no difference, it is simply a color choice. In my younger days I worked for a car audio shop doing radio and alarm installs. The industry standard then was that yellow was constant and red was switched so I have always followed that practice.
Yup, when I was working as an installer we had Yellow for Constant and red for switched as well...
Unless you were installing a radio in a late 80's Ford... in which case red was GROUND!! :o
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Watching this thread with interest. The tech that went over the bike with me when I bought it said the fasteners holding the battery door were soft so he recommended adding a fuse block if I was going to add any accessories so I didn't have to open the battery door everytime I wanted to add something.
Where do most of you place the fuse block?
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Watching this thread with interest. The tech that went over the bike with me when I bought it said the fasteners holding the battery door were soft so he recommended adding a fuse block if I was going to add any accessories so I didn't have to open the battery door everytime I wanted to add something.
Where do most of you place the fuse block?
Most of us mount it below the black side panel on the right in front, or under the seat, in place of tool kit, etc etc etc there are so many ways to mount it.....
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IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. There are some others that are very good as well, and less expensive. Take a look at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html) and http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml). The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.
+1, Fuzeblock is what I used. :-)
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There is really no difference, it is simply a color choice. In my younger days I worked for a car audio shop doing radio and alarm installs. The industry standard then was that yellow was constant and red was switched so I have always followed that practice.
+1 Many years in the automotive electronics industry, yellow is hot red is not ;)
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Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse panel.........
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+1 Many years in the automotive electronics industry, yellow is hot red is not ;)
I used yellow for the hot lead from the battery to the relay because that is what I happened to have on hand in a heavy gauge. I would have used red and was planning to replace. But if yellow is the industry standard I guess I'll just leave it.
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Most decent fuse blocks will handle ~ 20a per circuit, so it shouldn't be a problem if you wanted to. I agree though, it's not necessary for heated gear alone. A 10a - 15a inline fuse is all you really need.
In ZG's case, he has so many gadgets and accessories that it would behoove him to have a switched fuse block for some of it...
Fuzeblock's website states that they are only 10 amp circuits max. Has anyone used a 15A fuse for heated gear with no problems? I did not get a fuzeblock because in the winter I may use the jacket, pants, gloves, and boot soles - so I imagine I am pulling close to 15 amps with that setup. Just curious if it is ok to run a 15 a circuit with this or not.
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Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse panel.........
My choice if I decide to add any additional components.
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i use a Fuzeblock, I drilled a hole in the glove box and mounted it in there.
The 10 amp limit is each circuit but the entire box can handle up to 30 amps, so in that case don't run every piece of heated gear through the same circuit.
I have my heated jacket and clearwater lights running through it (along with a bunch of small drawing things) with no problems.
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Man wow this is lot of chatter over a fuzeblock :D
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Man wow this is lot of chatter over a fuzeblock :D
Sure is, but that's how bikes have changed over the years. It used to be all about carburetors
and spark plugs, and making sure little swivel plates had the "X" between two lines at top dead center.
My first bikes had no electrical relays and this one comes from the factory with 13 (unless I miscounted).
Mine now has 12 additional ones (unless I miscounted) for a total of 25 relays. Yep, these days it's mostly
about electricity and the fuseblocks/Fuzeblocks have really gained importance for all the additional farkles.
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If you want the latest and greatest technology, and don't want to worry about fuses, the PDM60 is the way to go.....
http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-digital-circuit-breaker-panel.html (http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-digital-circuit-breaker-panel.html)
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I just put a Fuzeblock on my wife's VStar 1300. Yes, on the expensive side, but it's a nice small compact unit and easy to work with. I have a light bar, LED lamps, stereo and 12v outlet connected to it. I did her heated gear direct to the battery.
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If you want the latest and greatest technology, and don't want to worry about fuses, the PDM60 is the way to go.....
http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-digital-circuit-breaker-panel.html (http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-digital-circuit-breaker-panel.html)
Nice but.....
GEEZ I thought the FUZEBLOCK was pricey. This product only has 3 total 15 amp and "3" 5 amp circuits for $148 (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif)
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Fuzeblock works for me. ;D
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I ordered up the Fuzeblock one yesterday from Cyclenutz.
Thanks for all the help on this one guys! :thumbs: :chugbeer:
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I ordered up the Fuzeblock one yesterday from Cyclenutz.
Thanks for all the help on this one guys! :thumbs: :chugbeer:
Should've gone with the Beaver......just sayin. ;)
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Should've gone with the Beaver......just sayin. ;)
Yep, I got some of that too Brian... ;)
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Yep, I got some of that too Brian... ;)
mailorder?
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Mail order Beaver? Kinda hard to get it through the post office I would think.
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Be tough to get past the dogs,too.
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Yeah, he'd probably gnaw his way out in the sorter room.
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beaver + gnaw = ugly picture
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Yar...
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:rotflmao:
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Yep, I got some of that too Brian... ;)
You smart arse twit! :battle: :goodpost:
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You smart arse twit! :battle: :goodpost:
;D ;D ;D
Sparky is a bad influence I guess... :-\
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mailorder?
I thought you could only get mailorder beaver from Russia?
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I should hope not. We have enough problems with our beavers.
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You're not complaining about getting lip from your beaver are you?
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You're not complaining about getting lip from your beaver are you?
;D ;D ;D :-X
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Most of us mount it below the black side panel on the right in front, or under the seat, in place of tool kit, etc etc etc there are so many ways to mount it.....
I've seen the tool kit delete mount. Anyone have pics and description of the side panel mount along with degree of difficulty info?
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I bought a Centech for my FZ1 and hated it. Very dumb design IMO. To attach something, you had to remove the cover to get to the screws. Plus, ground out of one side, power out of the other. Depending on how it's mounted and how permanent that it, you may not have accces to both sides, or be able to remove the cover. I told my brother why I didn't like it and sold it to him at a loss. Plus, it had a bare circuit board on the back side, just asking to short something. Whoever designed that thing must have never used it. Just one man's opinion.
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If you want the latest and greatest technology, and don't want to worry about fuses, the PDM60 is the way to go.....
Anybody tried one of these yet? Especially the latest release? Looking at that or the PowerHub2 from Twisted Throttle. Used Fuzeblock on Versys and liked. But, these much more compact.
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I bought a Centech for my FZ1 and hated it. Very dumb design IMO. To attach something, you had to remove the cover to get to the screws. Plus, ground out of one side, power out of the other. Depending on how it's mounted and how permanent that it, you may not have accces to both sides, or be able to remove the cover. I told my brother why I didn't like it and sold it to him at a loss. Plus, it had a bare circuit board on the back side, just asking to short something. Whoever designed that thing must have never used it. Just one man's opinion.
I have the FZ1 and it works great but I hate everything mentioned above. I will get a different model next time.
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I made my own,
1 small pvc hobby box for all the posatives, direct link to the battery via a 30amp relay using thick red wire , solid connector block inside to attach your various accessories to, realy is active by any switched live
1 small pvc hobby box for all the earths for your accessories, box attached to a good earth point on the frame, plenty of space under the seat to position boxes.