Anybody using this stuff in a c14? $3.49 a quart sounds pretty good. I understand it's made by Valvoline. I'm looking only for people who have tried this specific oil in a c-14.  NO OPINIONS PLEASE !   (possibly the worlds shortest oil thread ever!)

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NO_75510_0006411544

This won't answer your question completely, but I have used the Valvoline full synthetic 15W 50 in my 1200RT.  I'm assuming it's the same oil.

Probably as good as any other full synthetic and it worked fine.  But the Beemer had a dry clutch, the only catch with using automotive grades is that you need to be careful of the energy conserving additives that may be present, which are reputed to cause slippage in wet clutches.

Problem with oil reviews is that you don't really know if it was good oil or not until 50,000 miles down the road.

It would be nice to see the ratings on the oil and see if they match up with Kawasaki's recommendations.

From the C14 Service Manual:   "API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 SAE10W-40"

Just keeping to the facts, no subjective discussion. 

Anybody using this stuff in a c14? $3.49 a quart sounds pretty good. I understand it's made by Valvoline. I'm looking only for people who have tried this specific oil in a c-14. NO OPINIONS PLEASE !   (possibly the worlds shortest oil thread ever!)

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NO_75510_0006411544

The only way that's going to happen will be if I lock the thread and then no one can respond.  You don't want that, do you?  What will be will be...  Oh wait a minute, that's an opinion isn't it?  Well, that tears that I guess.

It would be nice to see the ratings on the oil and see if they match up with Kawasaki's recommendations.

From the C14 Service Manual:   "API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 SAE10W-40"

Just keeping to the facts, no subjective discussion. 

Even so, sounds like an opinion to me.  This is a fact, though....it's a car oil.

This is a fact, though....it's a car oil.

Do we have to go over the proper way to purge incompatible oil from the C14 again?

 

It would be nice to see the ratings on the oil and see if they match up with Kawasaki's recommendations.

From the C14 Service Manual:   "API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 SAE10W-40"

Just keeping to the facts, no subjective discussion. 

Napa says it's "SL" so i guess i'll give it a try.
Thanks!

Napa says it's "SL" so i guess i'll give it a try.
Thanks!

No no Mike, you can't end an oil thread that easily, not matter how much sense it might make. This is an oil thread, it must linger on. Unless of course the oil you are referring to is an inferior oil and cannot last that long, but even then, the oil will be changes and the thread will move on while we discuss the merits of that oil. 

Napa says it's "SL" so i guess i'll give it a try.
Thanks!

Go for it, what's the worst that can happen?   

Napa says it's "SL" so i guess i'll give it a try.
Thanks!

My two cents...

Keep in mind that the "with JASO MA, MA1, MA2" is the part that determines if it is suitable for use with a wet clutch.....
Stay away from oils that state"Energy Conserving" as they have friction modifies that wet clutches do not like...
From http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/motoroil.html

Conclusion
The bottom line? Just remember three things. First, use a multi-vis oil within the viscosity ranges specified in your owner's manual. This will be 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-40, or 20W-50. Don't for example use a 5W-30 motor oil. Second, this oil can be either petroleum or synthetic, but should not include any exotic material additives. Finally, chose an oil with an API service rating of SH or earlier, or if it has a later API service rating such as the current SL classification, it must also be labeled JASO MA to designate that it was developed without the automotive-mandated friction-reducing components that are a standard part of the API's latest specification.

No no Mike, you can't end an oil thread that easily, not matter how much sense it might make. This is an oil thread, it must linger on. Unless of course the oil you are referring to is an inferior oil and cannot last that long, but even then, the oil will be changes and the thread will move on while we discuss the merits of that oil. 

Oil threads and tire threads are like black holes. They go on forever. Just my opinion. OOPS!   

YAY!!!!!   and oil thread!

 

 

Thanks Flathead for staying focused. 

I've always wondered why it is so difficult to buy motorcycle oil, or tires for that matter.

I've always wondered why it is so difficult to buy motorcycle oil, or tires for that matter.

Not difficult, just buy car tires and car oil 

Not a true synthetic "fact".

Not difficult, just buy car tires and car oil 

Problem solved!