Going to look at a Connie that hasn't been started for a year or two.

[linexrandy]

Hey guys, first post. Heres my story. I've been riding a 2008 KLR 650 for almost a year and am ready for a Connie. I put the KLR (that has many, many, farkles) on craigslist for the KBB value price of $3750 or trade for a Connie. My KLR only has 3500 miles, mint shape, never dropped, farkles galor (madstad system, aftermarket seat, top box, many others). Anyways, an older gentleman about 2 hrs away calls me and says he has a 2000 model with 17,000 miles on it. He's the second owner, had it since 7,000 miles. It has Helibars, Rifle windshield, Corban seat, fender extender, Givi top box, grip heaters, and a radio system installed. He might have more, but I can't remember. Here's my problem. He said his riding partner died back in 2008 and he basically quit riding around the same time. He said he would go out and start the bike periodically but over the years the carbs started gumming up and then the battery died, so if I remember correctly he said it hasn't been started in a year. He absolutley assured me it was not ever hydrolocked and would remove the tank to let me check the piston heights. The guy sounds honest and is interested in trading for my KLR. He knows he will have to put up a little cash with the Connie since it will need alot of work to get it going again, but I checked the blue book and it's only $2550. Thats a $1200 difference between our bikes. I'm thinking I'll do the trade if he pitches in at least $600. The bike is mint. I'm excited. Do you need to remove the entire front fairing to get the tank off to check for hydrolock? If I can get it to attach I'll share a pic he sent me. The bike is clean and never been down. Would yall be concerned buying a bike that hasn't been ridden for this long?



I really hope I can get this bike. Supposed to meet on Saturday. I'm as excited as a kid on Christmas eve!

[Mettler1]

  I myself would not have a problem buying the bike that is that clean. Looking at the pic it looks like he keeps a neat garage. That tells me something! If not hydrolocked you will probably have to clean carbs and new battery. Probably new tires also as they might be quite old. Even still this bike with decent care will easily last 100,000 miles. Good luck. If you get the C10 come back here often. You will get all the help you need.

[linexrandy]

Thanks! Yes the guy seems like the type that kept the bike in good order till it set. He also mentioned he went to a COG rally in Denver. I plan on sending the carbs to the spa in florida, new petcock, new fuel lines, new radiator lines, check water pump, change oil and filter. He said the rear tire was new, 2 years ago I think, but new tires will be in the works also. I hope I'm just over worrying about all this. I'm sure the bikes fine. I've taken mid 80's hondas and a kawasaki that was sitting out behind a shed for 15 years and made run again so this shouldn't be to big a challenge. Been buying non-running junk for 14 years and somtimes making it run lol.

[Mettler1]

  Great. You will like working on the Connie once you get the body work off. If he has the S.S. hex screws the body panels come off a lot faster with a driver!!
  Don't know if you know about the "other forum. I guess you do if you know about SiSF's carb spa.

 Keep in touch. Tom

[RFH87_Connie]

That's a nice looking bike.  Did I see it listed on CL in the DC area?  If the price is accesptable, I wouldn't hesitate to get the bike.  Do the carbs, flush the tank, and get a new batttery.  Then ride it some to decide what needs doing next, i.e. fluids, hoses, etc.  It might be a good time to replace the thermo as it pretty much requires having the carbs off to access it easily (its not a very good road side repair to attempt).  Do order a new large o-ring for it.  Tell the guy at your local parts place to get you a thermo from an '83 Honda Accord.  It's the same one but you may want to add a 1/16" weep hole if it doesn't have one.

To remove the gas tank.  FIRST, remove BOTH side panels (the ones your legs cover) to avoid scratching them with the tank as you remove it (there is a fuel line and vacuum line you need to reach in and undo.  To get to them, you will also need to remove the seat, and two bolts that fasten the tank to the frame.  On the right bottom side there is a wire connector and plastic gauge drain assembly that pops off.  Keep track of the two round rubber grommets that are at the inside front of the tank.  They have a habit of falling into the abysis of the fairing and engine, never to be seen again.  There is also a large (5") square one that lays on the frame.

Learn the starter "bump" method of checking the valves, doing it this way saves you from removing a cover on the left side of the engine and replacing the gasket each time.  You will hate removing and reinstalling the valve cover - but it can be done.  It likes to fight and humble us.  Sometimes new carb boots are required if they get to hard.

Send this guy your money and he will help you with your addiction...

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/

[linexrandy]

No, the bike is about 2 hrs away from me in Canyon TX. He said he had his son list it on craigslist a year or so ago but it wouldn't sell with it not running. His son saw my ad on craigslist looking for a Connie and texted me his number. So does this qualify as a "barn find" lol?!

[linexrandy]

If we can't come together on the cash difference with the trade, I think I'll offer him $2,000 cash and go from there but I have a sneaky feeling he values this bike around $3K. Good running Connies in Texas are anywhere from $2K -$5K. A little higher than other parts of the country it seems.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

That's a tough one. The bike is clean and well farkled. Farkles you'l'd likely want anyways. But not running is a HUGE gamble for the purchaser, and owners trying to get top dollar don't want to think anything is wrong with their baby. I don't know what your plans are for getting it running, but I'd say expect to spend 7-800.00 for carb work, a battery, flushing all fluids, a petcock and dealing with a potentially rusted tank. If I were considering this bike, that would be my short list. That gets the cost up, and of course you're still going to have some sweat equity in it. Good luck - Steve

[linexrandy]

Thanks Steve. He knows he's going to have to put up some cash with it, but how much we havn't discussed yet. He mentioned he keeps the tank full to the top, so hopefully not too much rust. I'm thinking along the same lines as you, about $800 worth of repairs. I'm going to shoot for the difference in KBB which is $1200. Don't know if he'll go for that. The least I'd take is $600 or no deal. Then I'll ask him what his bottom dollar cash price is. I'm thinking with all the farkles it's worth (to me) $2500.

[timmerz]

There's a good chance that with that many upgrades already done that Steve may have already seen those carbs, and a good cleaning may be the only ticket they need...take a look at the airbox and see if there's a piece of foam in the opening on one side of the inlet...

[linexrandy]

Ok here's an update. I have sold (well, tomorrow anyways) the KLR for my asking price ($3750) so I've got that plus a little more, say $4500 or so total, to spend on a bike. I really want this one as I like the color, farkles, and miles are low. But am going to assume the worst, i.e. rust in tank, bad tires, carbs need done, battery. If I can get the bike at $2K-$2500 do yall think it's a good deal? The Blue Book on it's 2550 but they are hard to find in my part of Texas. I'd have to travel 4+ hrs to look at others, and they are all in the $3500-$5K range. Ideas? Thoughts? My thought is I buy this one for a good price, put say around $1,000 in it, and have a low miliage connie for less than $3500 or so.

[Ron Dawg]

Your bike is almost a clone of my 2000 that I bought two years ago for a little more $$ and 5,000 miles. It had been ridden once a month over the years but was stored indoors in FL. The tires were hard (replaced those), got a new air cleaner element (the old one was falling apart), new brakes, brake and clutch fluid, a taller Rifle windshield for me, and a Corbin seat. Tuned it up with new plugs and ran one tank of Seafoam through it. A few little odds and ends and a set of new tires, a farkle here and there and it's like new bike. You'll have maybe $500-800 in it and have basically a new bike. Oh, and if the head bearings have never been adjusted, they're overdue. Mine made it to 15,000 miles before the wobble at 45-50 began to scare me. Should almost be like a new bike if it was never hydrolocked. You'll have 80% of a world class Sport Tourer that has 100% of the character for 25% of the cost of a new one.

PS- If you don't do the SISF overflow tubes, replace the petcock and check the valves-interval is 6,000 miles unless he has documentation. The petcock's easy to do and less <$80 or so from Murph's. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Ron

[linexrandy]

Your bike is almost a clone of my 2000 that I bought two years ago for a little more $$ and 5,000 miles. It had been ridden once a month over the years but was stored indoors in FL. The tires were hard (replaced those), got a new air cleaner element (the old one was falling apart), new brakes, brake and clutch fluid, a taller Rifle windshield for me, and a Corbin seat. Tuned it up with new plugs and ran one tank of Seafoam through it. A few little odds and ends and a set of new tires, a farkle here and there and it's like new bike. You'll have maybe $500-800 in it and have basically a new bike. Oh, and if the head bearings have never been adjusted, they're overdue. Mine made it to 15,000 miles before the wobble at 45-50 began to scare me. Should almost be like a new bike if it was never hydrolocked. You'll have 80% of a world class Sport Tourer that has 100% of the character for 25% of the cost of a new one.

PS- If you don't do the SISF overflow tubes, replace the petcock and check the valves-interval is 6,000 miles unless he has documentation. The petcock's easy to do and less <$80 or so from Murph's. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Ron

Thanks! Favorite response yet! Gives me hope. I'll be calling the guy tomorrow night to see how much he wants for it. I've looked at Honda ST 1100's, V-Stroms, and these older Concours, and I think they are the best sub $5000 bike you can have. My opinion only.

[Ron Dawg]

That red piping on the seat makes me think it's a Corbin. That's worth $450-475 right there-new.

[linexrandy]

Yes, it's a Corbin.

[linexrandy]

Sold the KLR today to another seller for my asking price! I talked to the guy with this connie this evening and am going to look at it in the morning. His rock bottom cash price is $2,600, and I think it's a fair price. I plan to put $600 or so in it. Either way, I'll have a low mileage connie for less than $3500. Seach Tempest reveals 0 suitable Connies within 400 miles of me with this much farkeling. And I got the story straight on it. He let the tags expire in 08, but continued to ride it around to keep it fresh, not just start it like I previously thought he said. He also said it has been less than a year since it was started, but the gas has deff. gummed up the carbs. The rear tire is brand new 2 years ago, and the bike has been kept in a garage out of the sun. The front tire needs replaced due to wear soon. He says you have to see the bike in person to understand why he won't budge less than $2600. We'll see in the morning. I'll keep yall updated and post pics if it lands in my garage.

[jworth]

I'm certainly no expert in this area so I'm just thinking out loud here.  What I'm wondering is that if the carbs are gummed up from fuel then does it have a failed petcock?  I'm just wondering if the amount of fuel that the carbs hold would be enough to gum up the carbs even if it evaporated completely.  Now if there is a steady stream of fuel being leaked into the carbs by a leaky petcock refreshing it maybe?  Seriously, just thinking here.  In any case, check the petcock.  It's easy to do and you'll want to know anyway.

[linexrandy]

I bought it. $2600. Did the hydrolock test and it passed with flying colors. Spent about 6 hrs this afternoon cleaning the very nasty carbs and..........................ITS ALIVE!!!!! Runs great, idles at  1100-1200 rpm (is that right?)! I have a very small problem involving a sticky throttle, but I'll start another thread tomorrow if I can't find my answer.  Anyways I'm tired, going to bad, talk to yall tomorrow. Oh and I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

[Mettler1]

  Great!!  Yup, 1100 rpm is normal. YEAH, lotsa pics.   And tell us about the farkles and the farkles on your wish list. We love to hear about farkles. Sounds like you got a good one.  Thanks for the update. Tom

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

good work! another c-10 raised from the ashes! Steve