Anyone who has seen me involved in a conversation about lighting, and the use of HID's knows I am a HUGE fan of projectors. Why? Because they work, and are far safer than throwing HID's into a stock housing designed for halogen bulbs. It's a bit more work, but the end result is WELL worth the effort involved, as you will see in the pictures and video below.
EDIT: Look at this link for a very good explanation as to why putting HID's in a non-HID intended housing is a very bad thing!
http://southrnfresh.com/2013/06/why-adding-a-hid-kit-to-your-car-with-non-projectors-housing-makes-you-a-ricer/I do not recommend rushing this. Plan a couple evenings of preparation, and a couple full days of work. I had to rush it at the end (cause surprise, I had to ride my bike the next day due to the wife taking the car) and that lead to a couple mistakes that were completely avoidable.
This is my 4th retrofit, first using the quick-fit method. My last three were an Infinity projector into a sealed housing on my Honda CM450E, and I did, and Re-did the retrofit on my 650 with B-stock Mini-H1 1.0's
I will included what I ordered from TheRetrofitSource.com, and also what I recommend most people order instead. (I got all b-stock parts because I'm cheap and willing to do a bit of extra work.)
My stuff:
Generic Mini H1 Projectors:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/closeouts/standard-mini-h1-bi-xenon-projectors.html#.VEW5YPl4p4cThese are NOT to TRS spec. It's the same supplier, but TRS has them do special things to make a better product. With fine-tuning, these are equivilant in quality to the Morimoto Mini-H1 3.0, the current gen of Morimoto Mini H1's is 6.0 at the time of this posting. Gatling Gun 2.0 Shrouds:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/shrouds/gatling-gun-2-0-projector-shrouds.html#.VEW6cfl4p4cI got the B-stock ones with my order, this link is the QC'd ones. I recommend these ones over the Mini-Gatling's due to the size of our housing. The mini gatlings will be too small, these provide a much more OEM look.Wiring Harness:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-h4-motorcycle-dual-lamp-wire-harness.html#.VEW7lvl4p4cThis is required to maintain your high-beam low-beam function, and also takes a load off of the bikes skinny wiring. Makes the job SO much easierI had HID's and ballasts already.
MY RECOMMENDATION!!!! http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/motorcycle-stage-iii-kit-dual-headlight.html#.VEW8EPl4p4cAll of the stuff I listed out is in one place. No need to do all the extra leg work I did piecing things together. I know if you call in your order, they will do this kit with B-stock items at a reduced price to reflect B-stock prices. The advantage to the full kit, is you don't have to do any tuning, or testing. It all has been tested and is known to work. (I recommend firing everything up really quick before completing the install, like you'll see in my video below, but you won't have to do the few hours of extra work I had to do in tuning them.)PHOTOSBike from front
Housing lit up at night
Low Beam Wall
High Beam Wall
Low Beam for Oncoming (Comparison with other cars for oncoming as well)
High Beam for Oncoming
Low Beam Rider Wide
High Beam Rider Wide
Low Beam Rider slight zoom
High Beam Rider slight zoom
COMPLETE WALK-THROUGH VIDEO (24:xx minutes long)
In this video I discuss how to do this, and also some issues I came across along the way/ how I overcame them.2013 (2008-2014) Concours 14 Projector Retrofit complete WalkthroughNIGHTTIME PREVIEW VIDEOhttp://youtu.be/_xB5A_MJ1ZUEDIT: I've had a lot of people ask "How do you change the HID bulb when it burns out? Do I have to take it all apart?" The answer is "No." Changing the HID in the back of the projector, is the same exact process as changing the stock bulb. Undo a clip, pull the bulb out, re-do the clip. If you've got small hands like me, this may be possible with everything still mounted on the bike. (as long as you don't touch the bulb to anything)