Kawasaki Concours Forum
Concours 1400 (C14) FAQ => C-14, aka Concours-14 GTR 1400 => Engine and Controls (Fuel, Ignition, Exhaust, Sensors and the like) => Topic started by: Zman on May 14, 2011, 11:43:57 AM
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I've read some go as far as taking the radiator out and others got there with 1/4 extensions and swivels? It's raining, again, so I think it's time......
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I generally have the front wheel and fender off and then take the side fairings off. Also loosen the rad at the top. That works for me but others can get in there without doing all that.
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What Jim said...........and if you install some fuji-lock nuts, you more than likely are done worrying about them.
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I recently did mine. Take off the lower fairing and have a few extensions and a swivel head for the rachet. Be carefull when tightening the header bolts not to slip off the bolts and damage the radiator. Most of mine were loose. One more thing, be patient, at first I did not think I would be able to get to all the bolts tightened without further removing of things but it can be done. Taking off the body work is the worst part of the job.
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so are these commonly loose from the factory??
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Don't know if they are loose from the factory but they get loose rather quickly once the bike is ridden. After a few tightenings they tend to stay in place. I don't think we've had anyone check them right after the bike was bought of the show room floor.
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well i got 1800 on it i may check them this week, weather depending.
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well i got 1800 on it i may check them this week, weather depending.
I guess I better do mine, I got 3400 on the bike and I leave for a 11,000 mile trip (Florida to Alaska) in a month. Does the header start to leak if they are loose or is there any sign they are coming loose?
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I've done mine twice and each time they needed it. The fist time I did it without taking anything off, what a pain! The last time I took the lower fairing off. It was WAY easier but still a bit of a pain getting to the middle nuts.
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just for the asking, will the loose header nuts produce noise like a car . that tapping sound? got 4400 miles on bike now and still very quiet.
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With the right tools it is not a big deal, just remove the lower faring. Also it helps to have small hands. I check nime at abot 1500 miles. They were all loose.
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You can consider installing thin jam nuts on top of the existing nuts and tighten them against one another. This should keep the nuts form coming loose. That's what I did. You can get 6 metric jam nuts at Ace hardware for less than two dollars.
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just for the asking, will the loose header nuts produce noise like a car . that tapping sound? got 4400 miles on bike now and still very quiet.
Mine made some noise that I noticed, so I pulled the lower fairings and loosened the radiator to tighten everything back up.
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> 32,000 miles, and other than checking the header bolts i could reach with my fingers due to fearmongers on this forum having me paranoid they come loose, i have never accessed mine. Nor have I had a reason too.
fearmongers once upon a time also had me thinking KiPass is capable of failure, driveshaft would need repair, and my Kawi luggage would mysteriously take flight (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/lol.gif)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/bsmeter.gif)
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Steve doesn't even like Kawasaki........has had no issues.......and is a Honda Snob!!!!!! :stirpot:
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Steve doesn't even like Kawasaki........has had no issues.......and is a Honda Snob!!!!!! :stirpot:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/lol.gif)
but I don't DISlike Kawi
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Steve doesn't even like Kawasaki........has had no issues.......and is a Honda Snob!!!!!! :stirpot:
Soon to be a BMW Snob.... ::)
BTW, I've just checked header nuts on my bike and surprise,surprise......all were loose.
Pokey, could you please post a part number/link for the Fuji-lock nuts.
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+1 on the Fuji nuts..... Once is enough!!!
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Are these the correct Fuji-lok nuts?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1 (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1)
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Did mine last weekend,8k, nuts were very loose , did it the only way to do it right, removing the radiator, after that and torque the engine to frame bolts there is a big improvement on the hands numbness
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Are these the correct Fuji-lok nuts?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1 (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1)
YES, this is the correct link and Fuji nuts (8mm). I can say for sure since I saved this link off the old forum last year and I got a set. They are the final fix for this issue! :chugbeer:
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YES, this is the correct link and Fuji nuts (8mm). I can say for sure since I saved this link off the old forum last year and I got a set. They are the final fix for this issue! :chugbeer:
THX for the info!
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Took the lower fairings off (first time!!), unbolted horn and loosened air dam, removed the top radiator bolts, reached all bolts with 1/4" inch 12 mm ratchet and ratchet wrench. Put the Fuji Lock nuts after hardware run for washers to put on with them. Probably 90 minutes, not bad........ I appreciate the help!!
Getting up early tomorrow to ride....... no rain in Ohio for a change.........
Z
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Took the lower fairings off (first time!!), unbolted horn and loosened air dam, removed the top radiator bolts, reached all bolts with 1/4" inch 12 mm ratchet and ratchet wrench. Put the Fuji Lock nuts after hardware run for washers to put on with them. Probably 90 minutes, not bad........ I appreciate the help!!
Getting up early tomorrow to ride....... no rain in Ohio for a change.........
Z
I am a basic backyard mechanic and don't do a lot of motorcycle mechanical work, but you made it sound so easy, I think I am going to try it next week. I always envision starting something, getting stuck and then what? Calling a tow truck. I am going to give it a try.
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I found it easiest to remove lower plastic, remove just the lower bolt holding the rad in place and loosen the top rad bolt so it can swing forward. Now when tightening the hard to get to center nuts, use ΒΌ drive ratchet and enough extensions to reach from under, yes under the header. It helps if your extensions have a swivel end.
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Taking the painted plastic off and removing the radiator bolts to push it towards the front wheel makes it pretty easy to get to the bolts with no extensions, Watched Fred's videos once and it made the plastic easy.... http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html (http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html)
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You can get to all 8 header bolts just by taking the side fairings off if you use one of these with a 12mm, 1/4" drive socket. Available at Home Depot for something like $16 and a great tool for tight spaces with either sockets or hex bits.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/BDF08012008/Ratchetingwrenchw-socket.jpg)
Brian
I've read some go as far as taking the radiator out and others got there with 1/4 extensions and swivels? It's raining, again, so I think it's time......
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where do I get the Fuji locknuts?
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Fiji Lock Nuts - http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1 (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1)
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Thanks ZMAN...when I first went to the linked website I thought WOW $9.99 per nut...then I noticed lower down where it described it as a 10 pack
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Has anyone tried high temp lok tight or regular locking nuts instead of the fuji nuts?
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I did ride my '10 to Alaska and back AND it now has 23k miles and no loose bolts, headers or otherwise. I am not sure why this is a problem, but it is not a problem for all bikes. My '09 did
not have this problem either.
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I checked mine today along with installing zsteves heat inserts. 7 out of 8 mine were loose. I removed the mid fairings for the heat panel install and loosened the lower and radiator. I had to go to the store to buy a 1/4 swivel and that made it a lot easier. I also bought some high temp lock tite so maybe that will keep them from coming loose again.
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Just put my Myzzy header on today....THERE IS NOTHING FUN ABOUT THIS TASK!
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One gasket came completely off once. I put it back together with the help of a 1958 Fiat 500. The flywheel nuts fit quite nicely. Same size, and it is in my father in laws garage. I didn't take any of the fairing apart. It just took a little patience. No issues since. It was about 15,000 miles ago.
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I decided to check mine at 7000 miles . Listened to everyone and decided to take plastic off and move rad . I can't say they were loose but they certainly were not equal . With everything being mentioned about how to proceed , no one mentioned the torque spec . This information would be beneficial if anyone out there had it . Please pass it on if you have it as I think this is a time consuming job and would like fix to last as long as possible . LOL
Ron
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I think it's 13ft-lbs...
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I did ride my '10 to Alaska and back AND it now has 23k miles and no loose bolts, headers or otherwise. I am not sure why this is a problem, but it is not a problem for all bikes. My '09 did
not have this problem either.
+1
my '10 hasn't had loose bolt issues either, its >74,000 miles now