If you had the option to buy a 2008 with 33K or a 2010 with 90K all else being the same with the exception that the 2010 has the as usual valve cover leak and the fork seals are weeping, which would you buy?
They are both the same price...

To be honest, I'd buy neither and wait. Winter's just starting. There will be more deals coming up shortly. If I had to pick one, I'd go for the 2008. Not sure if '08 has linked braking but it's weird and I'd prefer not to have it if I had a choice. Then again if you live somewhere warm, the later models send less heat to the rider.

To be honest, I'd buy neither and wait. Winter's just starting. There will be more deals coming up shortly. If I had to pick one, I'd go for the 2008. Not sure if '08 has linked braking but it's weird and I'd prefer not to have it if I had a choice. Then again if you live somewhere warm, the later models send less heat to the rider.

The 2008 does not have linked brakes and as far as the heat goes all I need to do is install the foam pieces that block the opening near your shins.
I have owned a 2008 and a 2009 and installed the heat shields on the 08, the 09 came with them from the factory. Thanks
 

If you had the option to buy a 2008 with 33K or a 2010 with 90K all else being the same with the exception that the 2010 has the as usual valve cover leak and the fork seals are weeping, which would you buy?
They are both the same price...

well, seeing as you didn't bother to tell US the price... unless it was $4500 I'd say there is a reason the '10 is being dumped off, and the price on the '08 is about right...

and depending on if the '08 was well maintained, and the '10 was owned by one of the "I'm not gonna touch the valves, they are fine... my mechanic said they don't need to be touched" clan, I'd still buy the '08.

pretty vague question, with no actual information other than miles... come on, make it worth reading...

well, seeing as you didn't bother to tell US the price... unless it was $4500 I'd say there is a reason the '10 is being dumped off, and the price on the '08 is about right...

and depending on if the '08 was well maintained, and the '10 was owned by one of the "I'm not gonna touch the valves, they are fine... my mechanic said they don't need to be touched" clan, I'd still buy the '08.

pretty vague question, with no actual information other than miles... come on, make it worth reading...

Hardly vague!
Don't try to read into this more than there is. I intentionally left it pointed because I did not need an opinion about price, so I included the only criteria I was concerned about including the problems with the 2010, there are no know problems with the 08 so i did not mention it.
Thanks for your answer

Hardly vague!
Don't try to read into this more than there is. I intentionally left it pointed because I did not need an opinion about price, so I included the only criteria I was concerned about including the problems with the 2010, there are no know problems with the 08 so i did not mention it.
Thanks for your answer

Gabriel, I would of course buy the '08, but only if it was ABS. I have an '09 ABS, find it superior in looks, and the heat is not a bother as long as the foams are intact, and you wear some boots.

Gabriel, I would of course buy the '08, but only if it was ABS. I have an '09 ABS, find it superior in looks, and the heat is not a bother as long as the foams are intact, and you wear some boots.

This 08 does not have ABS, I have never owned a bike with ABS and I have owned over 75 of them. I would have to get used to ABS, I trail break and back-in occasionally, ABS might hair-lip me at first?
I can still get the foam inserts and on my 09 I even insulated the fuel tank because it got pretty warm.
I owned an 08 and an 09 and they looked the same to me except the 09 had a nice red color.
The 08 was faster, for whatever reason? If you opened the throttle in low gear the 09 would lift the front wheel about a foot maybe, but the 08 would flip over backwards if you stayed in it. The flies were swatted in the 09 also.
Thanks...

This 08 does not have ABS, I have never owned a bike with ABS and I have owned over 75 of them. I would have to get used to ABS, I trail break and back-in occasionally, ABS might hair-lip me at first?
I can still get the foam inserts and on my 09 I even insulated the fuel tank because it got pretty warm.
I owned an 08 and an 09 and they looked the same to me except the 09 had a nice red color.
The 08 was faster, for whatever reason? If you opened the throttle in low gear the 09 would lift the front wheel about a foot maybe, but the 08 would flip over backwards if you stayed in it. The flies were swatted in the 09 also.
Thanks...

Hey Gabriel, a nice little surprise emerged on my '09 ABS when doing the mountain twisties- I found that my 'unlinked' ABS worked independently front and rear, and I could "back in" with the rear ABS brake w/o fear of high siding, and that would 'set up' and hunker down the front suspension for the next corner. Down hill with just the rear ABS brake and 3rd gear is amazing and really makes this fat lady boogie. But only on an '08, or '09 bike as the later '10 bikes with ABS are linked and really hard to use front and rear independently. Just another reason to look for a good early bike with ABS.

Hey Gabriel, a nice little surprise emerged on my '09 ABS when doing the mountain twisties- I found that my 'unlinked' ABS worked independently front and rear, and I could "back in" with the rear ABS brake w/o fear of high siding, and that would 'set up' and hunker down the front suspension for the next corner. Down hill with just the rear ABS brake and 3rd gear is amazing and really makes this fat lady boogie. But only on an '08, or '09 bike as the later '10 bikes with ABS are linked and really hard to use front and rear independently. Just another reason to look for a good early bike with ABS.

I have no idea what that might be like but if I live long enough I will own a bike with ABS sooner or later.
I see that a lot of people do not like the linked abs starting on the 2010 model. I had a Gold Wing with linked brakes and it worked pretty good though I would prefer not to have linked brakes... thanks

Well the 2010 bike is a no go, the dealer tried to pull some shenanigans so I took a pass.
But based on the response here I would be better off with a 08/09, so my concerns were answered.
Thanks for your response, it helped...

Well the 2010 bike is a no go, the dealer tried to pull some shenanigans so I took a pass.
But based on the response here I would be better off with a 08/09, so my concerns were answered.
Thanks for your response, it helped...

Pray-tell what type of shenanigans if you can espouse on it to any extent. Inquiring minds ( at least my own) want to hear.

Pray-tell what type of shenanigans if you can espouse on it to any extent. Inquiring minds ( at least my own) want to hear.

Listing the bike as having an extended warranty available then saying the bike is only available as is.
They went to have the safety inspection done and the front tire needed replacing first which they would not do.
Which means they would handle the title transfer (33 bucks) but I would have to wait for the title to return from the state so I could have it inspected and then license it. I would have to wait as long as a month to license it, plus buy a tire and handle the inspection.
I had to ask for a copy of the sales agreement and noticed it was 88.00 bucks higher than was stated over the phone. I had mentioned the price during our conversations several times (sans the 88 bucks) because I had not seen the buyers sheet at this point and I was never corrected about the price i was stating as being incorrect? (I would have told the buyer, hey you have the price wrong.)
Important part: Now all this took place after an agreed upon drive out price.

Also something really peeves me; they were going to charge me for the inventory tax!!! That's a state tax for the dealer not the customer, however some bottom feeding dealers here in Texas are trying to pass this on. It was only about 7 bucks in this case and I was not going to say anything about it until other problems starting coming up.
So I had a bad feeling about all of this and expressed it.

Hardly vague!
Don't try to read into this more than there is. I intentionally left it pointed because I did not need an opinion about price, so I included the only criteria I was concerned about including the problems with the 2010, there are no know problems with the 08 so i did not mention it.
Thanks for your answer

well, it seems as I surmised, and you should now understand my asking the price...
an '08 today can be had for $5k or less, a '10 runs around $7k, in the market.. doesn't matter now. 
best of luck.

I may seem somewhat abrupt at times, but there is a reason I asked... you found out the '10 was a problematic p.o.s. for any purchase price, from what you are saying.

kinda like a fellow who posted somewhere else, that he purchased a Gen II C14, that was 'wrecked' for a "GREAT PRICE", then started buying parts to repair the damaged stuff... and came looking for advice on how to get his NEW bike running... as it had NO FOBS.. now he has a pre wrecked bike, with a salvage title, and no way to make it run until he buys another $900+ in ECU/FOB combo, and has both registered and programmed using a KDS3,

people get what they pay for, sometimes.. but many times, they get the shaft.
seems when a low price is the considering factor, the SHAFT is ALWAYS included...

ride safe, best of luck.

well, it seems as I surmised, and you should now understand my asking the price...
an '08 today can be had for $5k or less, a '10 runs around $7k, in the market.. doesn't matter now. 
best of luck.

I may seem somewhat abrupt at times, but there is a reason I asked... you found out the '10 was a problematic p.o.s. for any purchase price, from what you are saying.

kinda like a fellow who posted somewhere else, that he purchased a Gen II C14, that was 'wrecked' for a "GREAT PRICE", then started buying parts to repair the damaged stuff... and came looking for advice on how to get his NEW bike running... as it had NO FOBS.. now he has a pre wrecked bike, with a salvage title, and no way to make it run until he buys another $900+ in ECU/FOB combo, and has both registered and programmed using a KDS3,

people get what they pay for, sometimes.. but many times, they get the shaft.
seems when a low price is the considering factor, the SHAFT is ALWAYS included...

ride safe, best of luck.

The price really had little to do with it and at the time you asked it was not an issue at all.
It was ALL about them not keeping their word and you still don't know the price but they are both less than what you think...
You have a weird sense of humor, are you laughing now smart-ass?

yes,
I am laughing.... profusely as a matter of fact.

relax, have a beer, and stop being so uptight.....



peace, love, and macrame..

ride safe,

 

Small bag

But he has several. Probably need a  with that popcorn.

But he has several. Probably need a  with that popcorn.

I resigned from the entertainment committee so there will be no further entertainment in this thread...
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This 08 does not have ABS, I have never owned a bike with ABS and I have owned over 75 of them. I would have to get used to ABS, I trail break and back-in occasionally, ABS might hair-lip me at first?

No ABS!..that would be a deal breaker right there. There is no such thing as 'getting used to ABS' Just treat ABS as if it was never there and it will do its job (save your life)
 I would not buy either bike.  In the hopes that I do not (or have not already )offend you would you explain what you mean by 'Trail Break' and 'Back-in occasionally'and 'hair-lip' please?
I am NOT part of the 'entertainment committee'. Thanks