I think that really is the 'trick'- maintaining good down pressure on the bit while turning it. That is why I prefer a 1/4" drive hex bit used with a 1/4" socket, extensions and a ratchet; it is much easier to put steady down pressure on a ratchet head than a screwdriver handle in my opinion.

That does not mean ridiculous amounts of pressure either- some people have bent the throttle plate shaft inside the throttle bodies by using too much force and / or tapping the screwdriver with a hammer. "Tapping" on the screwdriver might be OK but remember, if the bike is bouncing on its suspension you are probably not really 'tapping'.

Brian

I bought a JIS screwdriver to remove mine; it was easy. I applied a bunch of downward pressure on the screw and gave it a quick twist to break the Loctite. The screws came right out afterwards, no heat or anything. It was harder removing the tank than removing the flies...

After ordering a couple of the JIS screwdrivers,  I started work with some trepidation.

I agonized over heating the screws or not, but decided to just try one cold, and see what happend.

I like to fly by the seat of my pants, to live dangerously, if you will.

Anyway, the first screw came out easily, so I kept going, working left to right.

Around screw five, there was some binding after several turns out, probably threadlocker, but the screw turned out with no problem.

The last screw, at the far right, I couldn't get a direct shot at the head, there was some angle.

This one turned out about half way, then bound up, and the head started to strip out.

I turned it back in, and out a few times.  I applied a little more force, and .......................


SUCCESS,   the screw came all of the way out!

It was a great day to be ME!

 

Bout scared me there.....

It is not a variable length system. It is a fixed length system with two separate throttle plates.

Trying to use one plate to effectively alter the length of the induction tube won't work because as soon as the air is on the near side (nearest to the engine), it will spill around the plate and assume the same velocity as it would have had there been no plates behind it in the first place. Air has inertia but not much and there won't be any tube lengthening effect at low engine speeds. At high engine speeds and under full throttle, there is virtually no difference between having the 'flies installed and wide open and having the 'flies removed.

Brian

Helmholtz resonance ?? Maybe someone should ask KHI  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_%28automotive%29#Variable_length_intake_manifold

In my opinion, secondary throttle plates in a fixed location, in a fixed venturi will not induce sufficient Helmholz resonance changes to make any measurable difference.

It seems that no engine manufacturers can make variable, tuned intakes without changing the shape and almost always, if not in every single case, the intake runner length.

All the way back to a C-14, I do not believe partially open secondary throttle plates can increase power compared with the same power plant that has simply had the secondaries removed. Of course as a reasonable person I remain open to any data that shows an increase in power with the single change of partially closing the secondaries on a C-14 but until that time it is my opinion that that will not work based on my understanding of the induction physics involved and the fact that no other manufacturer or race engine builders seem to use this method to increase power.

Brian

Helmholtz resonance ?? Maybe someone should ask KHI  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_%28automotive%29#Variable_length_intake_manifold

Hi Andy
The purpose of the secondary throttles is primaraly to smooth out airflow to stop bogging then surging when the throttle is opened sharply, and to generally give a smoother power delivery.
They are also used to reduce power under certain circumstances, such as traction control operation or gearchanging.
On the 1400s the secondary throttle shaft also has a cam on one end which can open the main throttle and is used as a fast idle device for cold starts.
I know that owners of the early bikes removed them as the 2006 model had their operation set to make power delivery smooth and docile below 5000 rpm.
Removing the secondary throttle can lead to a coarser power delivery and less driveability.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Steve Haswell
KMUK Customer Service

    We Yanks have been known to be a little coarse in our power delivery anyway.

    We Yanks have been known to be a little coarse in our power delivery anyway.

Indeed.....

 

Last night I took the Connie out for the first time since removing the secondaries. Didn't make a big difference in power, but it is considerably smoother with much less herky-jerky at part throttle. Crisper response as well. Shortened pipe and K&N air filter are the only other mods.

Last night I took the Connie out for the first time since removing the secondaries. Didn't make a big difference in power, but it is considerably smoother with much less herky-jerky at part throttle. Crisper response as well. Shortened pipe and K&N air filter are the only other mods.

Gonna take more tuning than that.