Right side cover bolt now stripped

[MrPepsi]

He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off.  Bolt is still in the frame......

Sadly, this.
I tried vice grips, and it twisted what's left smooth. Later I will buy a smaller extractor and I will try again. For now the door stays off. Surprisingly high amount of heat coming out of that opening. I can feel it through my riding pants.

[ZedHed]

Sadly, this.
I tried vice grips, and it twisted what's left smooth. Later I will buy a smaller extractor and I will try again. For now the door stays off. Surprisingly high amount of heat coming out of that opening. I can feel it through my riding pants.

Pepsi - try to borrow a welder from a friend and try welding a nut of the approximately the same size to what is left of the bolt in the frame.  Place the nut over the broken bolt and carefully fill the hole of the nut with weld -- this will weld the nut to what is left of the bolt and you should be able to just use a wrench to remove the bolt.  The heat of the welding will loosen the bolt even if it is cross-threaded.  If you get it too hot, it may damage the paint on the frame, but it is behind the plastic cover and you wouldn't see it anyway.  You could touch it up with black paint if needed.  As I said earlier, your only other option is to completely drill out the bolt and heli-coil the hole (which will be pretty buggered up)

[lather]

OK, here is a method I used once succesfully to drill out a sheared subframe mounting bolt on a different machine. There was about 3/16 of the sheared bolt protruding from the aluminum main frame. I clamped two quarter inch alum plates together and drilled a 1/16 inch central hole and three locating holes. Unclamped and then drilled one of the central holes to the size of the bolt shaft. I used the locating holes to clamp the two plates together again. This made a jig for drilling out the bolt that centered the drill bit by placing the large hole side over it. I made a 1/16 pilot hole and went progressively higher until just the threads were left and I could good pick them out and then clean up with a tap. If I had screwed up I would have just gone to the next larger bolt size but I did not.

[ZedHed]

OK, here is a method I used once succesfully to drill out a sheared subframe mounting bolt on a different machine. There was about 3/16 of the sheared bolt protruding from the aluminum main frame. I clamped two quarter inch alum plates together and drilled a 1/16 inch central hole and three locating holes. Unclamped and then drilled one of the central holes to the size of the bolt shaft. I used the locating holes to clamp the two plates together again. This made a jig for drilling out the bolt that centered the drill bit by placing the large hole side over it. I made a 1/16 pilot hole and went progressively higher until just the threads were left and I could good pick them out and then clean up with a tap. If I had screwed up I would have just gone to the next larger bolt size but I did not.

That also is a pretty good way to get the broken bolt out.  The only thing I might question is using a bigger bolt, that is a special "shouldered" socket bolt and it would be hard to match it up.  I would just heli-coil if I messed up drilling it.

[MrPepsi]

Sadly I may need to gring it off to get a good center to drill through.
I can see this side cover being held on C-10 style with a zip tie some day.

[lather]

That also is a pretty good way to get the broken bolt out.  The only thing I might question is using a bigger bolt, that is a special "shouldered" socket bolt and it would be hard to match it up.  I would just heli-coil if I messed up drilling it.

I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00

[ZedHed]

I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00

+1

[RIP50AK]

I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.

[lather]

I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.

I had trouble with the cover bolt. It looked to me like it was not properly tapped, as well as being non perpendiclular as Jayke mentioned. I bought the appropriate tap and cleaned up the threads and have not had any more trouble.

[lddave]

Forget welding just drill and tap it.

[wally_games]

This started with this tread... http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0
This is the painted cover that you must remove from the right side, before you can access the cover for the battery.
There is one bolt. Last time I removed it, it did not want to go back on easy. Well now it wouldn't come off at all. The alllen stripped in the bolt. Ideas? I tried cutting a groove to fit a large flat head screw driver, but the bolt is too soft to use a screw driver in. If I go to Kragen, what am I looking for to drilll into it?

I could really use some advice, I'd like to get it back on the road tomorrow.
I tried heat, I tried hitting it with a hammer.
It moved, but not much. Now I can't grip it with anything.

"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"

A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. 

[Tremainiac]

Under warranty?
Let them make good.
They screwed up my battery install and apparently those bolts(?) are made of fudge, cheese or butter.
Concerns me as the rest of the fittings.

[Gsun]

Forget welding just drill and tap it.

+1  Grind it flat, center punch, drill it out, tap.

[B.D.F.]

I think that was 'Danger Will Robinson, Danger.'

The guy who did the voice for the robot just died. I don't know if the guy who flailed the hooks around is alive or not....

Brian

"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"

A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. 

[MrPepsi]

"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"

A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. 

No doubt my friend. This all started because I threaded that bolt in straight, instead of at an angle which it apparently is supposed to be.

[MrPepsi]

You know, trying to find that OEM bolt on the Microfiche is turning out to be very difficult. I can't even find the cover on any of the pages.

[RIP50AK]

Forget welding just drill and tap it.

I am going to try this.

[lt1]

You know, trying to find that OEM bolt on the Microfiche is turning out to be very difficult. I can't even find the cover on any of the pages.

http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/OemParts#/Kawasaki/ZG1400A8F_Concours_14_ABS_(2008)/FRAME_FITTINGS/ZG1400A8F-2008/I14I1485F2131

[MrPepsi]

Looks like 92153D and 92200
Thanks!

[MrPepsi]

ORDERED. With extras because its me.