Rear wheel nightmare

[cugsy]

Dear god - what a pain! I ordered the tyres for the beast and they're sat in the shop waiting for me and the wheels to turn up.  Front wheel is off - the previous owner must be allergic to grease by the amount of effort it took to remove it.
 The rear wheel is still on....after 2 hours. The torque arm and caliper bolts were well on the way to being a fine aluminium/iron alloy - again no grease of any kind. I couldn't get to the lock nut so tried to remove the exhaust. I loosened one exhaust clamp but had to grind the other smaller clamp off. I had imagined that with them off and the two hanger bolts off then the exhaust silencer would pull free.  NOPE - nothing ...nada.
  What am I missing? I thought the swingarm would have dropped a couple of inches and give me some access to the locking bolt but that hasn't happened. I wonder if the swingarm needs greasing too?  Any ideas? I have to get these bloody wheels to the shop this weekend.    :'(John

[George R. Young]

If the exhaust system is being stubborn, you could disconnect one end of the shock, and the rear wheel should drop, allowing access to the lock nut.

[cugsy]

This could end up as a full rebuild George! I'll try that.  I wonder what else needs fettling?

[cugsy]

Well...they're both off and I'm knackered (pooped to you!).  All in all about 6 hours to drop both wheels - and the bodywork to try and loosen the exhausts.  As it is - a big thank you to George for the suspension advice. It worked mate ..Cheers  I just need to clean up the linkages now!
  I had to lift it up quite a it to get clearance, so I'm glad I had a bike lift (atv lift type). And the wife there to hold it steady while I swore a lot.  I do wish people would throw the ruined screws/bolts away when they destroy the heads rather than put them back on. I used nearly a full tin of 3 in 1 getting the fairing lowers off.  I checked the air filter too - black as a monkeys bum! That'll need cleaning. I can't imagine what the plugs look like. That's another day in the garage.  I'll grease everything else up before it goes back on. The coolant bottle is below the low mark (still the original green stuff) and needs topping up. I might get the radiator flushed and change the oil too.  So much for just doing the tyres eh? 

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

What I do:

Lift center stand onto some 2x4s so the massive beast-thing is up high.  Maybe get some help to do this part...drain the rear drive unit...remove rear brake caliper bits...disconnect shock linkage...unbolt pumpkin from drive shaft housing (pumpkin == rear drive gears, a.k.a. the stuff the rear wheel bolts to)...DO NOT LOSE THE LOOSE BITS THAT ARE IN  HERE!...and Wrestle the rather large rear-wheel-still-hanging-from-pumpkin assembly out from under the rear fender...

THEN, and ONLY THEN, do I separate the rear wheel from the pumpkin...no sense fighting with the exhaust hmmmm?  No reason to...

90-120 minutes tops to pull, change tyre, grease wheel  bearings, clean up the rear brake hydraulics and brake caliper, reinstall in reverse order of course...I also clean the rear brake master cylinder NOW and bleed all the old brake fluid out...change rear brake pads and scuff brake rotor unless really nice in there...Grease linkage bearings, and all is done at once... 

That rear wheel doesn't come off often, and I like to keep it that way!!

[timsatx]

One way I have gotten the bike up on 2x6's (I feel they offer more stability than the 2x4) is to stack 'em  like stairs to get the height that I want. I may even throw in some scrap plywood so the isn't too extreme and to fine tune the height I want. Usually it is either at the same height or (preferred) slightly higher than the mount for the center stand. Goes up real easy gets plenty of height.

[RFH87_Connie]

I can't seem to get mine up on 2x4s by myself.  Its a little too much to overcome by pushing down on the centerstand arm and pulling up and back on the lift handle, especially when you have the stock size tire.  What I usually do now (and haven't dropped it yet) is to place an individual scrap 2x4 on the back side of each centerstand leg while the bike is already on the centerstand.  I then lean the bike towards me while holding the front brake on) so one leg is off the ground and push (with my foot) the scrap under the opposite side leg.  I then lean it up slightly more than straight and kick the other one in.  At least for me, this feels a lot better than trying to wrestle it up on the centerstand by myself.

[vinny]

RFH87, I like your method, walking the bike up one side at a time seems a fairly easy way to get it done.
Holdind the front brake on is essential, and leaning the bike towards you first is a good idea.

[timsatx]

If it is a problem pushing it up the the 2x's then just start the bike and feather the throttle to get it up. I don't think I have done it yet. That got my bike up high enough to remove the tire. Personally I don't like the tilting the bike. Never have.

I just did a down and dirty pic to show you what I mean.

[Bob Young]

I use 2'X6" boards to roll the wheels on to. Then place 2"x6" boards cross wise where the center stand will go. Put it on center stand and go about changing/removing rear wheel.
Tilting the bike side to side maybe easier for some, but I don't want to chance my clumsiness and drop the bike "again".
HTH,

[RFH87_Connie]

While those ideas sound great, I only have a 29" (or less) inseam and pulling the bike up onto 2x4s and barely being on one tippy-toe getting off is more of a risk at least IMHO.  I have no issue with leaning the bike over to do it my way because I have both feet firmly on the ground.  You must however, do it perfect every time or i'm sure a loud crash sound will occur, followed by many loud words that probably could not even be printed in the arena.

P.S.-  When I ride I am always on my toes, not flat-footed.  Reminds me of my dirtbike days, so I'm comfortable.  No lowering required.

[cugsy]

Nah, I just used the bike lift.