OK I'm stupid

[Chrome Megaphone]

Why are the lobes on #1 at TDC pointing in the wrong direction?  I followed the manual to the letter.

[Rick Hall]

Cuz that's what the manual sez? Not exactly like many do valves on cars, but it works

I left the manual in the dust many moons ago. With valve cover off, 'bump' the starter til an intake lobe is pointing up. Check and adjust if needed. Look for an exhaust that may be pointing up, check and adjust it too. Bump starter to get #2 intake pointing up, repeat.

Tip: After bumping the starter, turn the key off

Rick

[greenie]

Cam clearance is uniform regardless where the piston is when the lobe is 180 degrees from bottom. Why do the manuals all suggest the time consuming and pointless procedure for adjusting clearance?

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

Why are the lobes on #1 at TDC pointing in the wrong direction?  I followed the manual to the letter.

   rotate the crank 1 more time, they'll point the way the manual shows. Right now #4 is correct.

   Steve

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

Cam clearance is uniform regardless where the piston is when the lobe is 180 degrees from bottom. Why do the manuals all suggest the time consuming and pointless procedure for adjusting clearance?

    Effectively, you are correct, that being the diameter of the base circle. However in the grinding process, it's not as perfect as you'ld hope, and there will be a slight bit more clearance at the beginning and end of each ramp. Generally only about .001" but it's there. So when you see the measuring point where the cam's clearance ramp (the area where the transition from base circle to ramp is ground) has just cleared the tappet, it's taking into consideration that slight extra bit of clearance.

   Steve

[Chrome Megaphone]

   rotate the crank 1 more time, they'll point the way the manual shows. Right now #4 is correct.

   Steve

Thanks Steve, got the same reply by Pete Aronson from www.expensivelightweightstuff.com
He said cams go in with #4 at TDC.  Never seen this before.  Whew!
I did the 2 mm ZX10 rod ZX11 piston swap, looks good.  Looks factory actually.

[connie_rider]

Many years ago, I bought all the parts to do a 1052 myself.
I had hydrolocked an engine and bought a used one. (uhh, to use temporarily)
Started getting things ready, balanced "everything", started to buy gaskets/etc, and stopped.
Bekuz, the "temporary" engine in the bike is running so good, that I never had the initiative to crack the case do the build.
And bought a C-14 that more than satisfies my need for speed.

Someday, I might get back to it. But probably not.
I have the C-14 and have the C-10 is a spare/back-up.

Waiting to see how yours comes out.
What piston clearance did you use for the bore?

Ride safe, Ted

[Chrome Megaphone]

I gave these specs to the machinist
"Have the block bored w/ .0025 - .0028 clearance."
http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=175.0
A final check before bolting the head on
https://streamable.com/j9dikh
I managed to find a full set of genuine Kawasaki ZX11 rings for $200 shipped and jumped on it.  With all this work I didn't want used rings.

[Chrome Megaphone]

Many years ago, I bought all the parts to do a 1052 myself.
I had hydrolocked an engine and bought a used one, temporarily.
Started getting things ready, balanced "everything", started to buy gaskets/etc, and stopped.
The engine in the bike is running so good, that I never had the initiative to crack the case do the build.

Some day, I might get back to it. But probably not.
I bought a C-14 and have the C-10 as a spare.

Waiting to see how yours comes out.
What piston clearance did you use for the bore?

Ride safe, Ted

Want to sell me your basket of parts?  I'm looking at a Eliminator bobber project next.  I can't afford a C14 because I'm poor. 

[connie_rider]

Over time, I have collected quite a basket of parts.
{they include donor engine/Steve's Power Cam's/36mm carbs/Ontario headers}...
And, I hadn't decided to sell.

Let's talk offline.

Ride safe, Ted