Posted this pre-crash and hopefully the prophecy won't be fulfilled and the world ends tomorrow!     Anywho, my next upgrade will be SS front brake lines from Murph.  Are there any benefits the 2 line system has over the 3 line or vice versa? 
I know the 2 line is cheaper and I'm not concerned about the bleeding of the 3 line (have a Mityvac) soooooo other than that, any benefits the original configuration has over the two line?  I don't recall the responses received on the old forum.  TY in advance!

It really boils down to this... Half a dozen of this and half a dozen of that! 2 line is cheaper and has less fittings to leak if they ever did leak. 3 line looks nice and is better if your of a mind to play with different handlebar heights; only one line to replace.

Other than those few and simple reasons I can't think of any other real reasons.

Thanks Tony.  I really have no intention of using anything other than the stock bars, although I do have risers installed, but I'll check with Murph to make certain the two line will work with those.

Thanks Tony.  I really have no intention of using anything other than the stock bars, although I do have risers installed, but I'll check with Murph to make certain the two line will work with those.

Your welcome.... I'm pretty sure that the stock length kits will work with basic risers but you should ask Murph to make sure. Myself I've used the 2-line kits several times over as I just can't see any reason to spend extra money and still get the same results and I'm known for being far from cheap.

I have always prefereed the 2 line setup, it takes the splitter block out of the equation when bleeding, and is a good choice.

And thank you MOB.  Email sent and received from Murph already and two line set will be ordered just as soon as I know the world isn't coming to an end!

just as soon as I know the world isn't coming to an end!

   
   Nothing yet!?   Did I miss it??

   
   Nothing yet!?   Did I miss it??

Nodded off and slept right through it eh? 

Every time a thread like this one comes up I try to suggest a 2-line setup wherein one line goes to the right caliper with a second line going from there over to the other caliper much like so many modern bikes have.  Me saying it hasn't made it materialize as of yet (Murph you listening?) but I'll keep suggesting it anyway.   I'm too cheap to buy custom made lines.  If I had more knowledge about I might be able to pre-made set out there somewhere that would work. 

I recently upgraded from the stock 3-line system to 2-line using a set of non-stainless but braided lines that came from from the great Steve in Sunny Florida. Much easier to blead than using the splitter, plus the increased feel by getting rid of the stock rubber lines. I kept the splitter mounted just to hold the speedo cable, the one brake line and the feed wires from the cruise control speed sensor.

Didn't want both the lines coming from the master cylinder, so just looped the second over to the other caliper. The Murph 2-line kit will allow you do this also.

Here is a couple of pictures of the lines installed on my '03 Connie:








-Ken-

Thanks Ken, wouldn't have thought to try that.

Every time a thread like this one comes up I try to suggest a 2-line setup wherein one line goes to the right caliper with a second line going from there over to the other caliper much like so many modern bikes have.  . . .   I'm too cheap to buy custom made lines.  If I had more knowledge about I might be able to pre-made set out there somewhere that would work.

Custom lines $22 (not tried, no affiliation)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-ZG-1000-1200-CUSTOM-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAKE-LINE-/120727891481?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1bf16e19

If you have a line going from caliper up over wheel and down to caliper, how do you prevent a bubble from coming to rest at the top?

If you have a line going from caliper up over wheel and down to caliper, how do you prevent a bubble from coming to rest at the top?

If need be you remove the caliper and hold it in a position that facilities removing the bubble while you bleed it.

Custom lines $22 (not tried, no affiliation)

  Looks intriguing, but almost seems like one of those too good to be true things.  And when it comes to something as important as brakes, I think sticking with something tried and true like Spiegler and Murph are the way to go.

I just recently upgraded to stainless braided lines and configured mine as Ken shows in his pictures.  I ordered mine from one of the ebay vendors in Canada similar to the one that George linked to.  Most of them offer two and three line kits that offer an even better deal than just their single line prices.  I went with a three line kit and upgraded the rear line while I was at it. The only hassle is that you have to figure out what length of lines you need, what fittings you need and fitting orientation.

I left my front splitter in place also since it's out of sight and convenient to use to hold the new lines in place.  I just stuck a couple old/extra banjo bolts in the holes to keep the wasps out.  Everything else was pretty neat and tidy as far as routing line.  I didn't have any problems with bleeding the lines with the looped line from right caliper to left.  The stainless lines give a much firmer feel to the brakes and require less pull than the stock lines.  I think it's a great upgrade  whether you go with the lines from Murph or get them elsewhere as I did since I love to pinch a penny!

  Looks intriguing, but almost seems like one of those too good to be true things.  And when it comes to something as important as brakes, I think sticking with something tried and true like Spiegler and Murph are the way to go.

I've have custom lines made by CycleBrakes.com when needed as they make lines with Galfer components.

Back in the early 80's I had # 2 (1/8") Teflon lines with Stainless Steel Over-braid and # 3 (3/16") Brass Female JIC fittings made up for me and my 72 CB750 (with home built dual disk front end) at the local hose supply shop; to which I then tapped the 10 mm banjo threads in the calipers out to accept 1/8" NPT and used hydraulic fitting to suit. That system is still in use today as teflon hose does not degrade over time.

Well, now this is helpful indeed!
I have a two line kit on mine, was on it when I bought it, and recently added risers. 
Oddly enough, the line going to the left caliper is plenty long enough, but the right gets a bit tighter than Id like at full extension.  I know thats not likely to happen on the road, and there is still a very little bit of give in the line, but not much.

Ive been thinking of redoing them, as the right line wraps around the fork tube, goes inside, then around and down, and I was going to make it a straight down run.

Looks like Id be better served to take the longer line, run it to the right caliper, or leave it on the left, and use the shorter of the two to run caliper to caliper.
I guess either would solve my problem! 

Thanks for the idea Ken!

Uhm, while I appreciate the aknowledgement, the idea for running one line from the master cylinder then looping over to the second caliper came right here from all y'all on the old forum, not yours truly.

Let's keep credit where credit is due.


-Ken-

Your welcome.... I'm pretty sure that the stock length kits will work with basic risers but you should ask Murph to make sure. Myself I've used the 2-line kits several times over as I just can't see any reason to spend extra money and still get the same results and I'm known for being far from cheap.

My bike had the 2 line setup from Murph and 1 3/4" GenMar risers. It was OK, but I removed the splitter to give the lines a little more slack.

Murph said just put info about the risers in the comment section and he would take care of it.  No surprise there.  Looking forward to putting them on this weekend.  Weather is supposed to be blah anyway, not confident spring will ever arrive.