So the cams show wear beyond the normal pitting?
How much oil is supposed to be visible in the cam area upon inspection?
"I looked at the oil level window on the case and could see it was full of oil. I stopped the engine." Was the oil level checked while the engine was running?
"I drained the oil and found it to be full." How much oil drained out and did that include the 2 drain plugs and the filter?
before doing that, id check the actual oilpump output pressure, it should be 38-47lbs iirc.Thank you for your quick response. I don't have my manual at hand, but I will check it later today for the oil pump pressure testing procedure.
there is a plug down by the shifter on the side of the case, where you need to install an adapter you may need to cobble up, to fit an oil pressure gauge, but before ripping everything apart, id do that diagnostic first....
steve may need to chime in here about this, I'm sure he's made a gauge thingamabobber...
Does the oil pressure warning light go out when the engine runs?It had better. Mine occasionally blinks if I brake hard with the engine at idle.
It had better. Mine occasionally blinks if I brake hard with the engine at idle.
I am looking for an experienced point of view on how to go about clearing the oil passages, by someone that has done this, or is familiar with the oil passage routes in this engine design.
Most all of the internal oil passages can't be 'blown out' without removing a part first. And by part, I mean the cam shaft, or the crankshaft, or a con-rod, etc.Hi Rick,
As I recall, the head (all the valve train parts) is lubricated from an external wishbone oil feeder pipe that is located under the header pipes. Main line front/center at the bottom. The "T" fitting (welded/brazed) is near the top, and a line splits off to each side of the head.
If you want to check for oil flow to the head, I might suggest loosening the lower banjo bolt slightly and cranking the engine. If you get oil, and *still* think the lines/passages downstream may be plugged, you'll need to remove the cams and rocker shafts.
Not terribly hard, but does take time. Loosen all the cam adjust locknuts and screws, mark the cam chain, the cam gears, crank gear, a tooth on each cam/crank gear so you can get everything back in the same position. Remove the cam chain tensioner, remove the cam gears, remove the cam caps, lift the cam out.
For a warm fuzzy: Remove the two 8mm? 6mm? hex plugs on the right side that are axially inline with the rocker shafts, pull the rocker shafts out, and gather up the rockers and the springs that may (or may not) still be attached to the rockers. I think it best the rockers be re-installed in the same location, so you might want to mark them before removing.
Reverse to reassemble, taking note that the cam shaft caps *have* to go back in the same location, and direction. You have been warned.
Rick
Here is a photo of a parts motor. I see what looks like another sensor, but I do not find it in the parts diagram, it has it's own wire that plugs in with the oil pressure sensor...... Is this the plug?
my guess is that all the oil that builds up in the top end is returned to the sump by way of running over the edge at the cam chain. I don't see any other way for it's return. Do you have a better answer?
So, Is it possible you can answer my question? Is the other sensor or "plug" I show in the photo, the port for the oil pressure tester?
Also, after thinking about it, my guess is that all the oil that builds up in the top end is returned to the sump by way of running over the edge at the cam chain. I don't see any other way for it's return. Do you have a better answer?
Hi,
Thanks for your replies.
No, the oil light has not come on.
Here is a photo of a parts motor. I see what looks like another sensor, but I do not find it in the parts diagram, it has it's own wire that plugs in with the oil pressure sensor...... Is this the plug?
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