Question regarding care and feeding of the stoveknob and its scurrilous spring -- will using a lockset lubricant keep things more or less springy?

Or is use of an electrical lubricant completely verboten with this switch?

Apologies if this bit of info is covered somewhere else -- if it's in the owner's manual, I missed it.

I don't have problems with my C14 yet (only 500 miles on it so far), but as I routinely remove the stoveknob when I park it, condensation can get down inside of the lockset I would think, creating the expected corrosion...

Just my opinion but I like to use a graphite based lube suspended in a solvent that evaporates. That keeps the lock itself lubed (Easy Boys!) but dry so as not to attract dust and dirt. I think the brand is 'Lock Ease'.

Not really sure about corrosion; I do not think many C-14 owners actually leave the bike in the weather without the main key (stove knob key) in the ignition. ??

Brian

Question regarding care and feeding of the stoveknob and its scurrilous spring -- will using a lockset lubricant keep things more or less springy?

Or is use of an electrical lubricant completely verboten with this switch?

Apologies if this bit of info is covered somewhere else -- if it's in the owner's manual, I missed it.

I don't have problems with my C14 yet (only 500 miles on it so far), but as I routinely remove the stoveknob when I park it, condensation can get down inside of the lockset I would think, creating the expected corrosion...

Just my opinion but I like to use a graphite based lube suspended in a solvent that evaporates. That keeps the lock itself lubed (Easy Boys!) but dry so as not to attract dust and dirt. I think the brand is 'Lock Ease'.

Not really sure about corrosion; I do not think many C-14 owners actually leave the bike in the weather without the main key (stove knob key) in the ignition. ??

Brian

I take the key out as an extra level of security (the fob is also out of the AO), but I put a cover on the bike so it's not completely uncovered. Thanks for the tip on Lock Ease. I figured something like that would probably be OK for the switch.

Motorcraft has a lock lube that I use.

I don't lube mine at all.  I spray it with a contact spray every once in awhile when I remember it...

Why don't you just leave the stove knob locked in the ignition?

I very rarely take it out of the ignition personally.  Maybe to blow out the dirt every once in awhile.

I take the key out as an extra level of security (the fob is also out of the AO), but I put a cover on the bike so it's not completely uncovered. Thanks for the tip on Lock Ease. I figured something like that would probably be OK for the switch.

At the risk of being all doom and gloom or sounding like chicken little (IIRC a pet peeve of Brian's {sorry guy, shoot me down, but I'll still be your friend  }) end of disclaimer.

I have two concerns.

(1) Security: Probably highly debatable, but I think that the highest level of security for the C14 (without additional supplemental locks and devices) is achieved by locking the steering head. The weight of the bike and the technology involved in by-passing the Mighty powah of the KIPASS system are the two best security aids to the bike. The key itself, not so much. Locking the front wheel full to the left makes man handling the bike even more difficult for potential thieves. Using the steering lock does not allow key removal.

(2) Lock-Ease: Lock-Ease for the lock itself is great for the lock, except that if you do decide to remove the key frequently you'll end up with graphited pants pockets. IMO the KIPASS switch adjacent to the lock is another matter. The Lock-Ease isn't dry, it has several solvents or carriers that the graphite is suspended in to help deliver it where you want it. They do quickly evaporate leaving behind the graphite, but then graphite is a conductor of electricity and I wouldn't want that getting into the switch.

My advice is to put Lock-Ease in the key lock and not the adjacent switch once a year and lock the steering on the bike and leave the key in place when parked. I don't lube the switch myself because I have the by-pass mod installed, but I'm sure there must be a safe dielectric switch lube that can be sprayed into the switch spring area without fear that it will negatively affect the electrical properties of the switch should it get inside.

LINK to Fred Harmon's KIPASS switch photos fyi

Agreed- I too would not suggest getting Lock Ease in electrical switches or components but then again, I do not actually squirt (Boys!) the stuff into the lock; I just put one drop on the key and then.... wait for it.... run the key into and out of the switch to spread the lube to the little plates inside the cylinder that actually could use some lube. As you run the key in and out, you will actually feel the key slide more easily (and if that is not fodder for any number of jokes, I do not know what else could ever be). And hey, in the end, is that not all that most of us really want out of life? A place to slide or keys into smoothly, with little effort and no resistance? (yep, more joke fodder there).

Brian

At the risk of being all doom and gloom or sounding like chicken little (IIRC a pet peeve of Brian's {sorry guy, shoot me down, but I'll still be your friend  }) end of disclaimer.

I have two concerns.

(1) Security: Probably highly debatable, but I think that the highest level of security for the C14 (without additional supplemental locks and devices) is achieved by locking the steering head. The weight of the bike and the technology involved in by-passing the Mighty powah of the KIPASS system are the two best security aids to the bike. The key itself, not so much. Locking the front wheel full to the left makes man handling the bike even more difficult for potential thieves. Using the steering lock does not allow key removal.

(2) Lock-Ease: Lock-Ease for the lock itself is great for the lock, except that if you do decide to remove the key frequently you'll end up with graphited pants pockets. IMO the KIPASS switch adjacent to the lock is another matter. The Lock-Ease isn't dry, it has several solvents or carriers that the graphite is suspended in to help deliver it where you want it. They do quickly evaporate leaving behind the graphite, but then graphite is a conductor of electricity and I wouldn't want that getting into the switch.

My advice is to put Lock-Ease in the key lock and not the adjacent switch once a year and lock the steering on the bike and leave the key in place when parked. I don't lube the switch myself because I have the by-pass mod installed, but I'm sure there must be a safe dielectric switch lube that can be sprayed into the switch spring area without fear that it will negatively affect the electrical properties of the switch should it get inside.

LINK to Fred Harmon's KIPASS switch photos fyi

Well if the bike is covered, there is certainly little risk of getting debris into the ign. switch ass'y then, so no problem.

Just a thought, but as others have said, the KiPass system really is extremely secure and frankly, I do not believe taking the key is helping you out much. KiPass generates some rather.... er, passionate responses in a lot of people and of course, everyone should do whatever he / she wants to with his / her property. I am merely suggesting that if you consider it you may find it is actually easier and perhaps even safer to just leave the key in the bike and as Marty said, lock the forks (which requires leaving the key in this particular bike) to use the system a little bit differently. Further, doing it that way puts the key in a position where it si readily available to grab whenever you need to get into a saddlebag, under the saddle as well as of course using it for the fuel cap, which is how the mfg. intended we use the system.

Just a thought....

Brian

I take the key out as an extra level of security (the fob is also out of the AO), but I put a cover on the bike so it's not completely uncovered. Thanks for the tip on Lock Ease. I figured something like that would probably be OK for the switch.

Yeah, Chicken Little is a little too far for me. I usually try to stop at the Mary Jane Tinklepants level of unfounded horror and terror.

 

Brian

At the risk of being all doom and gloom or sounding like chicken little (IIRC a pet peeve of Brian's {sorry guy, shoot me down, but I'll still be your friend  }) end of disclaimer.

<snip>

5 years and 60,000+ miles my KIPASS has been flawless. I attribute this to:

1) mad pow-ah
2) non-orphan crying policy of leaving stove knob in
3) bike in a garage most of the time
4) blind luck

If it ever does fail it will be attributed to:

1) current administration
2) last administration
3) GMO's
4) gluten
5) vacines
6) black helicopters
7) climate change

Why don't you just leave the stove knob locked in the ignition?

Because I (wait for it) LOVE the insertion. 

There's gotta be a country song here somewhere.

There's gotta be a country song here somewhere.

check with Rhino. He didn't mention busted ree-lay-shuns. I'm sure he's working on the lyrics now.

 

Brian

Because I (wait for it) LOVE the insertion. 

Because I (wait for it) LOVE the insertion. 

Oh, I think you'll do well here...