Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Summit670 on March 06, 2016, 05:41:51 PM
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For those of you who have installed replacement lines on the front, I am trying to decide between the exact replacement which is 3 lines, or, the alternative which is 2 lines.
This is on an 87 which currently has 3 lines.
Looks like Murph's offers a 2 line alternative.
I was looking at my bike and would like to know if you install 2 lines, do you leave that T connection which also has the speedo cable guide and then do you run the new brake lines thru the T connection such that the T holds them in place? Mainly concerned about what would hold the lines in place if the T connection is removed. Maybe the speedo cable guide is then bolted directly to the triple clamp and the cable as well as the hoses are routed thru it.
Also, if doing the 2 line, does the additional line running up to the master cyl create any clearance issues when bars are turned?
Lastly, I have Gen-mar risers. Hope the lines are long enough. They would be Speigler from Murphs.
Thanks.
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I have Speigler 2 lines from Murphs'. Had to order longer lines because I have bar risers. I like the 2 lines. no problems with the 2 lines It's a cleaner install. Just specify that you have risers and they need to be longer than stock.
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I put the two line kit on "Sam" years ago. The hose end banjo-bolt fittings at the master cylinder are slightly whacked, but the kit works just fine. I didn't have to modify anything.
I tossed the splitter manifold at the lower triple tree, as well as the tube/hose guide at the same location for weight savings. Light bikes go fast ;)
I have stock bars, so can't comment about bikes with risers.
Rick
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I did 2 line Galfers, sweet, easy, ditched Tee block, and re used the loom , as it attaches to one of the existing bolts anyway..
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279223469KKnEJw_fs.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/MAN_OF_BLUES/media/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279223469KKnEJw_fs.jpg.html)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279224148NKirPH_fs.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/MAN_OF_BLUES/media/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279224148NKirPH_fs.jpg.html)
did clutch and rear also, you basically cut the metal clutch line along the backbone to get it out, the new line is all flex
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279223847iVlPuV_fs.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/MAN_OF_BLUES/media/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/279223847iVlPuV_fs.jpg.html)
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Just to throw it out there, another option is one line down to right caliper, second line over to left caliper. Not often done on this bike, but done all the time on other bikes.
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Just to throw it out there, another option is one line down to right caliper, second line over to left caliper. Not often done on this bike, but done all the time on other bikes.
If bubbles run uphill, don't they congregate at the top of the crossover line?
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Apparently it works somehow as it's pretty standard fair on a lot of bikes these days. I still have the factory lines on mine. If I ever change then, this is the setup I'm going with.
EDIT:
I just checked to be sure. My CTX1300 is that way from the factory; one line down from the master to left caliper, second line up and over to the right.
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Thanks for the replies and ideas.
Regarding running the second line from one caliper to the other and bleeding....does the loop over the fender matter because isn't the normal way to bleed air from the lines by sqeezing the brake and then opening the bleeder on the caliper? The bubbles have to go down for that method to work.
Has anyone ever run a line from one caliper to the other?
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If bubbles run uphill, don't they congregate at the top of the crossover line?
Yet when we bleed our brakes we bleed from the top down so to speak? On the rare occasion that bubbles get trapped in the crossover line all you have to do is remove the caliper and hold it upright whilst you purge the bubbles out; just slip an iron bar between the pads or a couple of paint sticks....
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Yet when we bleed our brakes we bleed from the top down so to speak? ....
I beg to differ. The caliper bleed holes are at the tops of the calipers. Bubbles in the vertical lines rise to the top and sneak out the little holes in the master cylinder bottom when you first pull the brake lever.
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I have Speigler 2 lines from Murphs'. Had to order longer lines because I have bar risers. I like the 2 lines. no problems with the 2 lines It's a cleaner install. Just specify that you have risers and they need to be longer than stock.
+1
A COGger sold me his unused Speigler SS brake lines with a clutch cable. There were longer lines because I too have bar risers. No problems with 2 lines either.
I kept the loom attached too as stated elsewhere.
I have yet to install the clutch line. Kind of chicken cutting the cord. (And I still have cable TV too.)
My original lines are put away for now.
Good responses everyone!
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I am still intrigued by the thought of routing from one caliper to the other.
Has anyone done this on a concours?
Is there a special bleeding procedure on the sportbikes which have such a setup?
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I am still intrigued by the thought of routing from one caliper to the other.
Has anyone done this on a concours?
Is there a special bleeding procedure on the sportbikes which have such a setup?
the C14 utilizes that configuration, but I personally would just install the normal 2 lines from the master down, simply because if you ever damage one on the road, you may have issues finding a replacement quickly. It is an older model bike, so I try to keep it simple.
I always bleed furthest point first, and work back to the master.
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Ok the answer is no to running from one caliper to another, thats not a good plan. Install your risers first then go to the Spiegler of Galfer website and it will show you how to measure the lines. Then order them custom made and then you know they will fit. Oh and order the 2 line kit.
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:goodpost: What Jim said is correct. I got my fork brace before getting my 2-line and the brace came up and smashed into where the 3-lines meet. Not good
2 line is much much better.