This is how I measured my bike's shock sag without a helper.  I cannot take credit for the idea though.  The guy who came up with this clever method was Fred Harmon, here's the link:
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,36524.msg199722.html#msg199722
I won't bother with an explanation here as it is adequately covered by Fred's words and pictures.  Below is simply a picture of my adaptation of his idea.

I needed to measure the sag as I had just installed a Penske shock.  The shock has a reservoir so a place to put it had to be conceived and fabricated.  The last two pictures reveal my solution to the need of a holder for the shock's reservoir.

I bet it's a lot less than that. Vehicles already run borderline lean due to emissions regulations; basically negligible, as several owners have stated. Plus it's overridden above 30% throttle, 4K rpm, and forgot which other parameters, so on a trip, it'd rarely kick in anyway.

Hey Tomp, so the RT has better cornering clearance than the C14? I had a 2014 RT that gave back to BMW due to the recall. Took it to the twisties once, and could take them as fast as on the sportier K1300S, with both almost dragging pegs the way I like to ride on the streets. I remember my 2007 FJR touching way earlier, but with the new Gen3, that supposedly got better. Hope the C14 is more like the RT and less than the FJR... although on most comparos I've seen, the C14 is slammed as the worst handler (and heavy-steerer) of them all, and the Gen3 FJR as the best. Who knows. Let me know your more detailed impressions:). Thanks.

Not sure about the BMW, but I have ridden the newer FJR1300. It's a whole different animal than a C-14, and seems smaller and 'buzzier' in most riding conditions, but will negotiate the tight twisties better. Where the C-14 really shines is in the fast sweepers and canyons with PR2-3's and 55 rear profile tire. It stays planted and feels like on rails when leaned hard and I'm sure it will dust most other sport/tour bikes in that riding scenario. Also, getting your specific "sag-set" is very important to the C-14, and should be done before any serious cornering or braking is attempted.

Also, getting your specific "sag-set" is very important to the C-14, and should be done before any serious cornering or braking is attempted.

Good advice, but at 155# sans gear, I might not sag the Connie enough. Have read it's on the stiff side. I like a firm ride, but not jarring. On my ex-BMW bikes, I had the suspension in the softest settings, and felt like I was on sport+. Ha ha. But just the way I like it. So never moved it, or bothered to change spring rates and such. It's a bit hard to buy without a long and proper test-ride, but that's what happens when you live in a crappy place like this . Plus there're no twisties of any kind anyway, so a test-ride around the block doesn't tell you much. Still waiting to hear availability of 2015s before making a final decision. Supposedly they're shipping to dealers already.

Good advice, but at 155# sans gear, I might not sag the Connie enough. Have read it's on the stiff side. I like a firm ride, but not jarring.

I am in the same boat at 150# sans gear.  I wish I knew someone that could help set up the bike correctly for me.  I think it feels OK, but I might could benefit from a softer spring.

I am in the same boat at 150# sans gear.  I wish I knew someone that could help set up the bike correctly for me.  I think it feels OK, but I might could benefit from a softer spring.

Just need someone to help with measurements.  Take your choice.  Three vids on How To. . .Info from all three should make one good piece of info...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4m4ahZLRMY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U

Just need someone to help with measurements.  Take your choice.  Three vids on How To. . .Info from all three should make one good piece of info...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4m4ahZLRMY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U

[Moved all the sag stuff from an unrelated thread to here, the newest thread relating to sag]

It is all rather complex   It is something I would gladly pay an expert to do, especially since I was forced to lower the bike.

More threads:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8061
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14869
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13297

I've got more sag than I care to elaborate on...

Do they touch the water while seated?      

Do they touch the water while seated?      

  Good point... if it were a boat, yep.

I've got more sag than I care to elaborate on...

Do they touch the water while seated?      

Terminology problem here. What hangs through the hole in the seat (and perhaps "touch the water") is referred to as "droop". What hangs over the outside of the seat to the left and right and nears the floor is called "sag" (also called saddle bags). "Sag" can interfere with the dispensing of paper during the paper work phase, "droop" usually increases the amount of paper work required if water or solid matter contact is made.

  Good point... if it were a boat, yep.

As to what max' is typing about...well once again I have no idea. 

When one checks the static sag does the spring compression have to be 'off'?  In other words, no preload or does it make any difference?  I have mine 'adjusted' (probably not right) to begin with or can you work with it as is?  What if it is dramatically off to begin with?

I'm not an expert but I play one on the internet.   

The springs are always somewhat compressed. So to answer your question, no.  You will/may have to put some preload in to start your measurements vs. fully extended.

Is your static sag with no rider?  RaceTech calls static sag race sag. The amount the bike compresses from fully extended vs. rider on board.

Setting sag is, like, a three stage process.
Fully extended, heh-heh, bike under it's own weight and then with rider dressed in gear.

If you have to crank in lots of preload to get the numbers right, ie, almost maxed out, your spring rate is too soft, giving a harsh ride without even bringing damping into play. 

You want springs that need as little preload as possible while still meeting your sag numbers.
Clear as mud?   

These good people explain it better than I.   
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/suspension-setup-101-part-i-setting-sag
http://racetech.com/page/id/30#3

Happy tuning!   

   LOL farty!!