Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Tele130 on June 23, 2011, 12:06:07 AM
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Before I bleed the system and start fishing the stock line out.................................anyone have any helpful suggestions for removal? (besides cutting it up ;D)
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http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/rd.htm (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/rd.htm)
Cutting it out is about the only realistic approach. The above link gives basic instruction towards the bottom of the page.
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Cut the bugger out in smaller links with a large pair of pliers....
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Thanks guys. One of the fist mods that require "Destruction" of removed parts!!!!! :rotflmao: :thumbs:
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Doug, could you measure the new line end to end including the fittings?
I need to order one OTP but have to add 2" (for bar risers). HEL tell me their line is a straight swap for stock but I'd like to know what length your line is compraed to what they're offering me.
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Doug, could you measure the new line end to end including the fittings?
I need to order one OTP but have to add 2" (for bar risers). HEL tell me their line is a straight swap for stock but I'd like to know what length your line is compraed to what they're offering me.
55". Nice thing is you don't have to run it behind the airbox which will save about 6" anyhow. :thumbs:
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55". Nice thing is you don't have to run it behind the airbox which will save about 6" anyhow. :thumbs:
Thanks :)
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Doug, could you measure the new line end to end including the fittings?
I need to order one OTP but have to add 2" (for bar risers). HEL tell me their line is a straight swap for stock but I'd like to know what length your line is compraed to what they're offering me.
You do not need to replace the clutch line for two inch risers, some careful re-bending along the top frame tube will get you enough slack to make it work, same with the throttle cables, just do a little re-routing. The enrichener and brake lines do have to be replaced, IIRC. This is ASSuming, of course, that you are not putting ape hanger bars on. :yikes: :rotflmao:
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You do not need to replace the clutch line for two inch risers, some careful re-bending along the top frame tube will get you enough slack to make it work, same with the throttle cables, just do a little re-routing. The enrichener and brake lines do have to be replaced, IIRC. This is ASSuming, of course, that you are not putting ape hanger bars on. :yikes: :rotflmao:
I'm replacing the clutch line for a braided HEL one and already have the risers fitted.
My stock clutch line with the risers is tight (ish) at the bar end but this is because my clutch lever is adjusted to a level where it's comfortable. If I tip my lever forward, I get more slack but then not comfortable for clutch hand.
I'm using the stock choke cable with my risers, just don't run it through the guide on the headstock.
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Can i ask why you have to cut out the clutch line? cant you just unhook it and pull it out. guess i will go out and take a close look at mine and see, I think it wouldn't hurt to replace my line as well.
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Can i ask why you have to cut out the clutch line? cant you just unhook it and pull it out. guess i will go out and take a close look at mine and see, I think it wouldn't hurt to replace my line as well.
It's a rubber/Rigid line combo. If you feel like removing the airbox......................... :yikes:, then it could probably be done. ;D
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When I removed my stock clutch cable, I unscrewed the hose part from the rigid part up by the steering head. Then, by simply removing the airbox, I was able to fish it out the back along the frame.
Yes, I rode with both cables in place for about 6K miles. :)