I pulled into a driveway with a big incline so I left it in first gear and put the kickstand
 down on my 2016 C-14. The bike shut off.
I went to restart the bike and got the FI error and 23, 24, 26, 53, 59, 65 codes.
I tried replacing the battery with a new one and used a wire brush to clean all the connections at the battery including the wires and ground connections.The bike is under warranty, and the Kawasaki dealership is closed. Im planning on removing the plastics etc. to do a visual inspection to look for damaged wiring from mice etc. Besides a visual inpection is there anything else one can do without having KDS 3 kit?

with that many simultaneous codes, on different areas, I think you may find some chewed wires.. if you did indeed clean all those connections as you say, and have a good batt.
might try also, making sure it's in neutral, and putting the kickstand up, and attempting a start, with clutch pulled in, just for the last step, as the cumulative codes also tossed aone that had to do with the shift/gear position sensing. Most had to do with cam position, and other timing issues, along with the vvt pump.

Doesn't take much to create multiple errors on a CAN Bus system like this, as the multi ground wires running, and ganged by couplers, can create this with a compromise any any or all, when one or 2 are chewed.

Look on top of the engine/valve cover, and forward for nest materials, and chewed wires... also in the tail section, under and behind the seat, where the big wire bundles route, back to the ECU; Ive had nests, and chewed up wires, in both those areas.. make sure to disconnect the battery during the handling of these wires. to preclude any possability of a short, during a repair. : I use a product called "Liquid Tape", when the insulation is compromised, but wires are intact. A couple coats, then wraps of 2" long electrical tape, on each damaged wire, and then you should be safe.

FSM is beneficial, but without one, the codes won't sink in. They are all in there tho.
I think you should enlist the assistance of your dealership under warranty, after all, you paid for it.. and at least get them to acknowledge and date the issue, and stretch you coverage to suite, in light of the major shut down of public services.  best of luck.

Thanks MOB for your help. Wires look good in tail section. What do I need to remove to get to top of engine for mice infestation inspection?

Thanks MOB for your help. Wires look good in tail section. What do I need to remove to get to top of engine for mice infestation inspection?

answered your p/m, check the p/m's..

Update: I finally got an appt. at the dealer to look at my bike since I wasn't able to find anything with the plastics off. No mice.
I had the bike towed yesterday and left it outside the dealership. I got a call today that my bike was ready for pickup. Dan told me he went to move the bike around to the shop. He tried to start it and it fired right up. He used the KDS on it and got no error codes and there were none stored. He load tested the battery and found it bad. I had put a brand new Yuasa battery in it after I had the FI error thinking it might be the problem.
I haven't ridden it for eight weeks and a brand new battery bad?
Its really strange that I tried to start it yesterday before it was towed and got the FI error and yet after it was towed and unloaded it started right up and no codes are showing up. I can't understand it.

I don't have any ideas where to look for the issue.
That being said, I am an electrician by trade & can only say "it is not fixed".
Somewhere, sometime the problem is apt to rear its ugly head & it will be at the most inopportune time, also.

He load tested the battery and found it bad. I had put a brand new Yuasa battery in it after I had the FI error thinking it might be the problem.  I haven't ridden it for eight weeks and a brand new battery bad?

Stranger things have happened.  It is possible it was a bad battery from the factory.  It is possible he declared it bad and it just needed charging (8 weeks with several failed starts and no running or charging can make the battery low).  I hope he wouldn't do that, since it would be unethical (to say it is bad when it wasn't).

Was the battery delivered to you filled or not filled?  If it was filled, who knows when they filled it.  Did you charge it completely when you installed it?  If it was low on charge on arrival, sitting 8 weeks in that state might still have enough charge to start the bike, but also damage the plates (seems unlikely, though).

Its really strange that I tried to start it yesterday before it was towed and got the FI error and yet after it was towed and unloaded it started right up and no codes are showing up. I can't understand it.

Intermittent problems are a bi***, most especially electronic/electrical ones.   The act of transporting it via towing can jostle things back to working.

Battery issues usually manifest themselves as weird symptoms like this.

I just got back from a trip with my GSXS. I started noticing some weird symptoms I thought was a fuel pump going bad. Then the speedo started reading erratically. Finally the gauge cluster went crazy and the bike died. I coasted to the side of the highway and tried starting the bike again, and heard a loud POP. A cell in the battery blew.

Good thing I was riding with a friend. I sat at the side of the road for an hour and a half while he rode around looking for a replacement battery in the middle of nowhere Kentucky. Luckily found one and all is fixed.

When I got the new battery I filled it with the included fluid pack and I fully charged it overnight before I installed it. I had 12.7 volts when I installed it. I only tried to start it about five times only to get FI error. There was no cranking. The dealership claimed it was load tested and came up bad. I put the old battery back in for now. I'm going to take it somewhere else tomorrow to have it checked out.

If you are trying to "initially charge" a newly "juiced" battery, make sure you shake it up a bit, and let it sit a half hour, before charging.. then use a "manual type" charger, @ 2 amps, and watch it, closely.. should take about an hour or 2 only, and it should be up to 13+ v DC, when charger is removed..
"battery tenders / trickle chargers" and even 90% of any "protected / automatic" chargers, do not supply enough amps, to stimulate a new, or old (discharged/possibly sulfated) battery...

also, before taking the other battery in to be load tested, it MUST be fully charged to capacity, not trickle/tender, but a full 2 amp manual charge..which may take a couple hours, but watching the charger is critical, don't do this "overnight"..  then it can be load tested.

I've resurrected many "failed" batteries, by jostling them, thumping them on my work bench, charging them, and repeating the thumping and manual charge cycles, even at a higher (6 amp, for a short period), cycle, with great success.. the thumping and shaking helps to break up any sulfation on an "older battery", and allow it to full charge.