After reh8388 made one for his 2010+ bike he made one up for me to try out on an '08 bike.
Took about 30 minutes to install, program and put the bike back together. If I was not taking so many parts off so that I could get better pictures I would say that it's a ten minute job.

The '08-09's are setup a little different than the '10+ but for the most part they are the same.
The '08-'09 have the head light relays in a different location. They are located on the left side where the '10+ bikes have the storage compartment.

Start by removing the three screws holding down the left black panel.


Lifting the panel out of the way (be careful there is a plastic rivet holding the top to the dash and they do break easily) you will find 3 relays. The online data shows the headlight relays to be #26.



I removed all three to see for sure.
In reh8388's post he states that the brown plug is the one you want. I used a 12v test light to quickly verify this to be the correct relay on the '08 also.


Next remove the relay and plug the female end into the bikes harness in place of the relay. Then plug the relay into the male end of the harness.


Stuff the wires down in and push the relay back onto the post where it was before


AT this point I followed the programing instructions that reh8388 included with the unit. It took it the first try, then I had to program the opener to recognize it.
Now that I know it works I needed to mount the sending unit to the bike.
The back side of the panel works perfect.
Although there is some heat shielding that needs to be removed first.


Once it's removed and cleaned off all you need to do is to remove the backing on the heavy duty Velcro that was already on the unit and press it firmly to the panel. Hold for 20-30 seconds and you are good to go.


Install the panel and you are done.

Here is a short video of it in operation.
http://youtu.be/X9NaYDBvIiw

A huge thank you to reh8388 for making this and allowing me to do this. Has to be the best mod yet. Having to get off the bike, go into my Jeep and hit the door button was always something the drove me crazy.

Excellent documentation! Great job!

What would you say were the key points of difference between what you did, versus an off-the-shelf product like Flash-to-Pass garage opener? Is one clearly better than the other?

I've been using the F2P for several years (got them on two bikes, and two different garages), but am always interested in newer and better products.

Well I've never used the F2P system so I can't truly compare but from what I see online is that I don't have to splice the bikes factory harness (important to me as I'm still under warranty) and I did not have to add a receiver to the house.
This system is simply a universal door remote that is triggered by your bike and it's programmed to work with your existing opener.
 I guess the down fall compared to the F2B system is I "don't think" it will work with more than one opener. Where as the F2B is basically a stand alone system being it has a sending unit and receiver.   

Both open and close the door. But for me I would say not having to cut my factory wires is the selling point and I only have one door to open anyways.

Ohh I'm interested! How much did that set you back?
Mike

Ohh I'm interested! How much did that set you back?
Mike

Mike,

I am the one that designed and build these openers for the Concours. I am charging $90 right now. Check out my original thread over here...http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17438.0

I am really glad you got your mounted up and everything works well on the 08-09 models! Thanks for the great write up.

Well I've never used the F2P system so I can't truly compare but from what I see online is that I don't have to splice the bikes factory harness (important to me as I'm still under warranty) and I did not have to add a receiver to the house.
This system is simply a universal door remote that is triggered by your bike and it's programmed to work with your existing opener.
 I guess the down fall compared to the F2B system is I "don't think" it will work with more than one opener. Where as the F2B is basically a stand alone system being it has a sending unit and receiver.   

Both open and close the door. But for me I would say not having to cut my factory wires is the selling point and I only have one door to open anyways.

Just to clarify: with F2P, no cutting is necessary. I used the supplied Posi-Tap connectors. Easy to use. Removable.

I just keep the opener remote in a pocket.
Usually the one on the inside left of my jacket. 

Yes, the opener remote has been soaked. 

So has my bitchin  KIPASS  fob!   

 Keepin' it simple. 

Just to clarify: with F2P, no cutting is necessary. I used the supplied Posi-Tap connectors. Easy to use. Removable.

Clogan,

Just FYI, most OEMs would consider a wire tap of any sort "cutting" the wire when it comes to a warranty claim. Since you have compromised the original wire insulation at a point in the harness not originally designed into the system.

People do it all the time and never have any issues so I am not suggesting that you would, but from a warranty standpoint, it could lead to a rejected claim.

Even adding my system could lead to a them rejecting a claim since the electrical system has still technically been modified, but since any system that plugs in-line can simply be unplugged, it makes it very difficult (impossible unless you tell them) for them to see you modified anything.

Clogan,

Just FYI, most OEMs would consider a wire tap of any sort "cutting" the wire when it comes to a warranty claim. Since you have compromised the original wire insulation at a point in the harness not originally designed into the system.

People do it all the time and never have any issues so I am not suggesting that you would, but from a warranty standpoint, it could lead to a rejected claim.

Even adding my system could lead to a them rejecting a claim since the electrical system has still technically been modified, but since any system that plugs in-line can simply be unplugged, it makes it very difficult (impossible unless you tell them) for them to see you modified anything.

Let me rephrase, then.

The use of a blade, snips, scissors or any similar tool is not required for installation of the F2P. Instead, the insulation of each of two high beam circiut wires is pierced by a needle-type connector device called a Posi-tap connector, which can be easily removed leaving no trace whatsoever, other than the tiny needle hole.

There. Whew!

Let me rephrase, then.

The use of a blade, snips, scissors or any similar tool is not required for installation of the F2P. Instead, the insulation of each of two high beam circiut wires is pierced by a needle-type connector device called a Posi-tap connector, which can be easily removed leaving no trace whatsoever, other than the tiny needle hole.

There. Whew!

I understand what a posi-tap is. You are piercing the insulation which is a damaging the wire insulation.

I understand what a posi-tap is. You are piercing the insulation which is a damaging the wire insulation.

In any event, I want to tip my hat to you. I certainly admire the inventiveness of your product, and your willingness to offer it to others. It looks like a great solution to a problem that vexes many of us.

very nice

I was too intimidated by the wiring for a flash-to-pass system on my previous bike, so I got a mini garage door transponder at Home Depot for $20, programmed it to the door opener, and attached it to the glove box door with industrial velcro.  Did the same with the glove box on the Concours 14--I don't mind having to stop the bike, put it in neutral, open the glove box and hit the button, but I can see how being able to open the door without taking your hands off the bars once would be great.

Not sure what the range really is on this but so far I have opened the door from two houses away. Works fantastic. I get two driveways from my house, tap the flash to pass twice, pull in clutch and cost into my driveway and right into the garage.